ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Yes, I believe you'll need a bowl adapter for that head.
An 8" riser will work, but you're starting change the center of gravity, just be sure to center the weight on the carriage for smooth slides.
DIY IndieSlider...
- Thread starter ZazaCast
- Start date
Yes, I believe you'll need a bowl adapter for that head.
An 8" riser will work, but you're starting change the center of gravity, just be sure to center the weight on the carriage for smooth slides.
Sorry Zaza, I meant this for you, I'm still new to forums.
By all means, I wish you the best. Why is it that you chose the 60mm and not the 80mm? If it was center-mounted instead of your legs, wouldn't 80mm be better?
Also, I made a slide like the DP Slider, what my friends said was that it was smoother and more quiet than the Glidetrack. Couldn't you manipulate your legs to work on a Redi-Rail? I mean with support on both ends that linear slide would pretty damn good. I don't have pricing in front of me, but it would be under $200 I believe?
Also, I'm thinking of starting a slider like the Indi Slider. It's made from hollow aluminum extrusion. Have you looked at the Integral V stuff from PBC? I haven't priced it yet, but take a look: http://ivt.pbclinear.com
Oh, and one last thing, have you seen any motorized sliders? I want to make one of those next!
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
16mm rail isn't available in an 80mm width and I was matching the 'HD' versions of the slider other manufacturers were selling. The 16-60mm (IMO) is the very best of both worlds.... it's not tiny like the 40mm and not too big like the 80mm.
ZazaSlider Feet will work on pretty much ANY slider out there...very easily on any that use the igus rail! (they are pre-drilled for bothe 40mm and 60mm rail)
The 16-60mm igus rail is hollow...another reason to use it...very easy to tap 3/8"-16.
People have been working on this for quite awhile...please go for it. Kessler will be offering it on their CineSlider soon.
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Yup... tried it a long time ago. Not real smooth and very expensive.
I've played with just about all the products igus offers and you just can't beat
the 'W' rail for cost and performance in this application.
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
finedesign
Member
Couple TWO slider rails for travel?
Couple TWO slider rails for travel?
Two questions:
1) I'm a little confused now about the rail size. When I called Igus they said they were out of the stuff everybody else uses, but they recommended the "smaller" rail:
WW-10-80
Because I need this for travel, I got it. However now I'm wondering if it is, in fact, smaller than the 10-60. Can someone clarify?
2) I'm not sure if I made a foolish choice, but I ordered TWO 50cm lengths of the rail instead of one 100cm because I need it to be portable on flights (one carry-on).
Looking at it now, I'm concerned that however I decide to couple it will introduce a *bump* to the rail. I took it to a machinist today and he said he might be able to join them.
What do you think? Any ideas on how to join the two rails seamlessly, yet allow for fast assembly in the field?
salaam-
paul
Couple TWO slider rails for travel?
Two questions:
1) I'm a little confused now about the rail size. When I called Igus they said they were out of the stuff everybody else uses, but they recommended the "smaller" rail:
WW-10-80
Because I need this for travel, I got it. However now I'm wondering if it is, in fact, smaller than the 10-60. Can someone clarify?
2) I'm not sure if I made a foolish choice, but I ordered TWO 50cm lengths of the rail instead of one 100cm because I need it to be portable on flights (one carry-on).
Looking at it now, I'm concerned that however I decide to couple it will introduce a *bump* to the rail. I took it to a machinist today and he said he might be able to join them.
What do you think? Any ideas on how to join the two rails seamlessly, yet allow for fast assembly in the field?
salaam-
paul
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Yes... and no. The first number "10" refers to the rail size. The rail you bought is 10mm. The second number refers to the width of the rail. Your rail is 80mm wide.
So, your rail is smaller (10mm vs. 16mm), but wider (80mm vs. 60mm).
Depending on what camera you're using and the load you're putting on the carriage...this could be fine...or not. The 16-60mm is really the best all-around choice in my opinion.
NOTE*** igus sales people are not cinematographers, they are there to sell product.
No one has found a good way to join two pieces of rail to my knowledge and it has been talked about repeatedly in this thread. I personally don't see the need.
This is also why I recommend a 700mm size for portability. It is small enough to carry around easily, but still allows for a good 2 foot of slide.
finedesign
Member
Thanks for the clarification on the rail. Makes sense now. I guess mine is a hair lighter than the 16-60. I'm wondering if the 10-60 wouldn't be the better rail? Maybe you'd say it's not strong enough? (I'm considering drilling several more holes in mine to lighten the load...is this a foolish idea?)
My setup:
Induro ct114 carbon fiber tripod
Manfrotto 701HDV head: 1.8lbs
Canon T2i (550d): 1.17lbs
Heaviest lens: 1.7lbs (Sigma 50-150)
-------------------------------
Total weight on the slider: 4.67lbs (approx)
Regarding joining the rails, I did try to look in this forum, but couldn't find anyone talking about it before getting lost in all the posts!
Well, I can't send this back, so I'm going to try to make it work. I'll try to report back here with how well (or bad!) it goes.
salaam-
paul
My setup:
Induro ct114 carbon fiber tripod
Manfrotto 701HDV head: 1.8lbs
Canon T2i (550d): 1.17lbs
Heaviest lens: 1.7lbs (Sigma 50-150)
-------------------------------
Total weight on the slider: 4.67lbs (approx)
Regarding joining the rails, I did try to look in this forum, but couldn't find anyone talking about it before getting lost in all the posts!
Well, I can't send this back, so I'm going to try to make it work. I'll try to report back here with how well (or bad!) it goes.
salaam-
paul
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
It will work just fine with your set-up. :2vrolijk_08:
I wouldn't drill too many holes in the rail though....how light does it have to be?
Thanks!:laugh:
All you should need is this:
If you have a head with a screw that comes out the bottom... I believe people have been using this adapter with success:
Manfrotto by Bogen Imaging 325N Video Head Adapter Bowl- for 75 mm and 100 mm Heads
Mount it to your carriage and your head should drop right in!
Thanks for your response, I have one other question...If I wanted to attach the rail to my tripod legs that has a 75mm bowl, what would be the best/easiest way to do this? For the life of me I can't picture how to do it.
Thanks for your time! It's greatly appreciated!
photonashville
Well-known member
I wanted to give a huge Thank You to ZaZa. Bought the Igus rail not quite a year ago and bought the ZaZaslider feet back in February.
Had a chance to put the slider to a lot of use for a promotional video for a home tour. It's our neighborhood's annual benefit to raise money for projects. The video was my contribution, so no crew, just me filming, running sound and doing all the editing.
http://www.vimeo.com/10830991
Was used here at the tour website, http://www.12southtour.com.
Had a chance to put the slider to a lot of use for a promotional video for a home tour. It's our neighborhood's annual benefit to raise money for projects. The video was my contribution, so no crew, just me filming, running sound and doing all the editing.
http://www.vimeo.com/10830991
Was used here at the tour website, http://www.12southtour.com.
Rick Burnett
Section Moderator
I think if you have the machinist bevel the edges a little where the two tracks come together, that the transition should be fine given the width of the bearings. You just want to eliminate a hard edge so that both tracks don't have to be lined up PERFECTLY.
(By bevel, think of like if you could put the ends into a pencil sharpener and turn a few times just to shave a little away at an angle.
The machinist term you are referring to is to"chamfer" the ends. I used to be a Automation engineer / CNC machinist back in the day (and by "back in the day", I am referring to when you could actually get and keep a job in manufacturing in the US)
Honestly though these rails are so presise that with the proper sized metal dowel secured in place on one end with a set screw they should not need much of a chamfer at all.
do the rails like this, when you do each rail will have the metal dowel/thick music wire on opposite sides kind of like model train track, with a slight sanding of the edges and the width of the bearings it should be fine. Hell I might even try this with my 800 and 1500 rails just because I am curious; lol.
_______---- ''''___________ (' are spaces, the site takes out your spaces)
_______'''''---- ___________
Honestly though these rails are so presise that with the proper sized metal dowel secured in place on one end with a set screw they should not need much of a chamfer at all.
do the rails like this, when you do each rail will have the metal dowel/thick music wire on opposite sides kind of like model train track, with a slight sanding of the edges and the width of the bearings it should be fine. Hell I might even try this with my 800 and 1500 rails just because I am curious; lol.
_______---- ''''___________ (' are spaces, the site takes out your spaces)
_______'''''---- ___________
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ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Get one of these and attach your rail to it:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._520BALLSH_520BALLSH_75mm_Half_Ball_with.html
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
Great job! You have some very creative slides happening in there...keep it up. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
ZazaCast
Major Contributor
This would be my approach too...but keep in mind, the user who asked the question bought the 10-80mm rail, which is solid, so he'd have to drill out the ends of the rail too.
finedesign
Member
You guys are awesome. Thanks so much N635DC and Zaza.
I get the "traintrack" coupling idea, but here's my thought...I'd like to be able to mate ANY of the sides just in case a part of the rail gets dinged. That way I can just rotate ONE of the rails and mate them fine. In addition, I want to design super-light handles (just aluminum bars) extending from the (currently non-tapped) rail ends. This complicates the mating because I don't know yet how I'm going to attach the handles (threaded or not? hmm) to the rails.
Add to that, I'd like to be able to work out an assembly that allows me to attach the whole thing to, say, a staircase railing (with ties, etc) from any of the pre-drilled holes. For everything, I want to have as much of the thread sizes matching so that if I lose a bolt it's ok.
I'm about to try designing the whole plan for the machinist (I'm trying to do as much work myself as possible to lower his time/cost). Does someone have something already setup in Illustrator? If not, I'll just set it all up based on the schematic from Igus.
I'll share what I do here to help the community.
I get the "traintrack" coupling idea, but here's my thought...I'd like to be able to mate ANY of the sides just in case a part of the rail gets dinged. That way I can just rotate ONE of the rails and mate them fine. In addition, I want to design super-light handles (just aluminum bars) extending from the (currently non-tapped) rail ends. This complicates the mating because I don't know yet how I'm going to attach the handles (threaded or not? hmm) to the rails.
Add to that, I'd like to be able to work out an assembly that allows me to attach the whole thing to, say, a staircase railing (with ties, etc) from any of the pre-drilled holes. For everything, I want to have as much of the thread sizes matching so that if I lose a bolt it's ok.
I'm about to try designing the whole plan for the machinist (I'm trying to do as much work myself as possible to lower his time/cost). Does someone have something already setup in Illustrator? If not, I'll just set it all up based on the schematic from Igus.
I'll share what I do here to help the community.