DIY IndieSlider...

Martin Koch said:
As far as I know they currently test curved rails at Igus Germany. Before christmas there was an email invitation to make product suggestons. My naive "christmas wish" was a carriage that can be used on curved and straight rails plus quarter circle rails that can be connected similar to the race car tracks of our childhood. To my surprise I received a phone call from Igus the next day. They thanked for the suggestion and said they liked my idea and that this will be tested. The man from Igus also said that the new hybrid bearings might do the trick.
I haven't heart anything since then but at least (if it works) there's a slight chance for curved DryLIn W rails. We'll see.
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Yes... I asked about a curved rail over a year ago and was told the same thing.
Maybe they're getting closer now.

I've been looking at this other stuff for awhile now:
https://tech.thk.com/en/products/thk_cat_main.php?id=315
 
Ach, I did not know about the HKA option and already bought the carriage.
I have a question though: is it possible to have for the "plain" DryLin end blocks like those used for the ZLW (without the chain stuff) or some kind of termination block?
I suppose the question goes to mjaldridge
 
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SanVa said:
Ach, I did not know about the HKA option and already bought the carriage.
I have a question though: is it possible to have for the "plain" DryLin end blocks like those used for the ZLW (without the chain stuff) or some kind of termination block?
I suppose the question goes to mjaldridge
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ZLW is a much small track, so no, the end blocks are not available for the "W" stuff. There are countless end-stop solutions within this thread. See the first post.
 
SanVa said:
Ach, I did not know about the HKA option and already bought the carriage.
I have a question though: is it possible to have for the "plain" DryLin end blocks like those used for the ZLW (without the chain stuff) or some kind of termination block?
I suppose the question goes to mjaldridge
Click to expand...


I have an idea for this, just need to confirm something. Watch this space, should post an answer on Monday. Have a nice weekend everyone.
 
End blocks as in the pieces that hold the track off the ground, or the pieces that are at the end of the rails that keep the carriage from traveling off the rail?
 
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I was also wondering, if you took some plastic anchor bolts and a washer and put them in the ends, might work too (although with an expensive camera on the rig, I am tapping my holes!)

Zaza, the only thing I have been wondering is a quick release on one side. We are probably going to order a second track that is 8 feet long (if they make it that long, haven't checked) and would like to swap the carriage fast without having to unscrew the ends. I guess if I just hand tighten, who cares. :) It'd still be fast enough.
 
grimepoch said:
Zaza, the only thing I have been wondering is a quick release on one side. We are probably going to order a second track that is 8 feet long (if they make it that long, haven't checked) and would like to swap the carriage fast without having to unscrew the ends. I guess if I just hand tighten, who cares. :) It'd still be fast enough.
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It's just one screw....only takes a second to remove. I have both ends of the rail tapped and it takes all of 30 seconds to unscrew them and remove the carriage.
 
Just a quick update to say I have managed to mount my Libec H33 tripod head to the carriage by simply drilling a hole (10mm for us UK folk) and attaching a nut above and below the carriage.
I know someone was asking about the Libec H22 a while ago and they seem pretty similar after looking at the diagram.. I haven't threaded the holes I have simply drilled them. The bottom of the screw coming from the Libec Tripod head was quite small but just a bit too long as it caught the screw mounting the rail to the tripod. My friendly local B&Q hardware man cut a bit off the end of the screw and it seems to be working fine. I will include some pics as this may not make any sense
otherwise. I don't intend on removing my Libec H33 from the carraige so this seemed the easiest and quickest way to get going. Plus I am pretty useless at DIY.

libec-zaza1.jpg
libec-zaza21.jpg
 
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Length of DryLin rail

Length of DryLin rail

grimepoch said:
I was also wondering, if you took some plastic anchor bolts and a washer and put them in the ends, might work too (although with an expensive camera on the rig, I am tapping my holes!)

Zaza, the only thing I have been wondering is a quick release on one side. We are probably going to order a second track that is 8 feet long (if they make it that long, haven't checked) and would like to swap the carriage fast without having to unscrew the ends. I guess if I just hand tighten, who cares. :) It'd still be fast enough.
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You can get the rail in lengths up to 4 metres, so you should be fine. Shipping cost can go up though if you go more than 2 metres, depends where you are.
 
Luckily I am in NC and where I ordered was from RI so not that far away really. We are still vacillating between 6 feet and 8 feet.

what would be nice is a way to join 2 pieces together.
 
I'm building my rig to support adding different rail lengths, essentially it'd be possible to order two pieces of 4' track that can be combined to 8' if needed. Once completed I'll post details.


grimepoch said:
We are probably going to order a second track that is 8 feet long (if they make it that long, haven't checked) and would like to swap the carriage fast without having to unscrew the ends. I guess if I just hand tighten, who cares. :) It'd still be fast enough.
Click to expand...
 
Yes, please do! We'd rather use two pieces even if that adds a little weight for the support structure required. We can move an 8 foot section, but it won't be easy to move about. Being 6'4" helps, but not that much! :)
 
End Blocks for DryLin W

End Blocks for DryLin W

SanVa said:
I have a question though: is it possible to have for the "plain" DryLin end blocks like those used for the ZLW (without the chain stuff) or some kind of termination block?
I suppose the question goes to mjaldridge
Click to expand...

As promised, here is what you can get from igus.

Igus also manufacture a DryLin W leadscrew driven system:

drylin_slw_der_kompakte_01.jpg


You can buy the end blocks on their own, sure they will have a hole in the centre, but they will screw directly to the ends of the rail.

The part numbers you need:

For the WS-10-40 rail use LT-SLW-1040-AL

For the WS-16-60 rail use LT-SLW-1660-AL

For the UK, the prices are £20 and £30 each respectively, of course you need two per system, one for each end. Prices in other countries may vary from this. Delivery would normally be 1-2 weeks.

 
mjaldridge said:
As promised, here is what you can get from igus.

Igus also manufacture a DryLin W leadscrew driven system:

drylin_slw_der_kompakte_01.jpg


You can buy the end blocks on their own, sure they will have a hole in the centre, but they will screw directly to the ends of the rail.

The part numbers you need:

For the WS-10-40 rail use LT-SLW-1040-AL

For the WS-16-60 rail use LT-SLW-1660-AL

For the UK, the prices are £20 and £30 each respectively, of course you need two per system, one for each end. Prices in other countries may vary from this. Delivery would normally be 1-2 weeks.
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Thank you for the reply!
I see that the blocks protrude on the upper side of the rail while it would be ideal to have them sticking out of the bottom so that they could be used to raise the rail from the floor. Could they be mounted that way?
 
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