DIY IndieSlider...

Just a question, Love this thread, followed it for a while

What are there parts originally supposed to be used for? lol, I can't find what they do anywhere!

This has turned out to be a great thread!

Linear motion machines...lathes, automated machines...lots of things.
 
kessler crank...cool...

kessler crank...cool...

which igus bits is he using - do you know ?

ok a bit more on the THK curved track.

Prices are improving (since for our purposes we don't need such a large load - I asked for 30lbs minimum - I was only talking about vertical load...i.e. straight down)

;)

Don't have an exact quote for the HCR12 (that's the smallest sliding platform) but the HCR15 - 24mmx47mm - to cover 120 degrees of motion (i.e. 1/3rd of a circle) would cost $660 dollars.

The HCR12 would bring that down again - plus these are full retail quotes so there would be flexibility here - I reckon it would come down to something like 400-450...

I'm working on getting a sample to play with for a few days just to establish how noisy/smooth it is - and whether it's even doable

Nick
 
Had an idea on the curved track situation.

Actually its only half an idea but maybe one of you may know how to make it a reality.

The idea is to rotate the slider on a tripod while the camera moves to create a curve.
Then if we had an 'invisible piece of string or metal' that anchored the camera
at a constant distance from the red X ....

3312491583_73dff809c0_o.jpg



would this work?
can this idea be developed?
There must be some way to regulate movement along the arc as the slider pivots.
 
J davis, i've done this with mine, works ok, but a curved track would be better, seems like we're always in a search for curved, no mater what type of dolly we have lol

if you put the camera on the end pointing out, you can to an outer curve as well, sort of jib like
 
J davis, i've done this with mine, works ok, but a curved track would be better, seems like we're always in a search for curved, no mater what type of dolly we have lol

if you put the camera on the end pointing out, you can to an outer curve as well, sort of jib like
But are you using your judgment to maintain constant speed to tripod rotation?

or
have you built a mechanism to regulate this for you? (which is what I am asking)

My point is, to get a perfectly symmetrical arc, the carriage must move at a constant speed in ratio to the pivot of the tripod.
By having the 'invisible wire' anchored to the center (red X on my earlier diagram) you can get a perfect arc without
having to judge speed vs rotation
 
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J Davis,

That's a great idea!
it would have to be for small items only i think because the track is not that long to go around a car like that or even a person. more like just a person's face.

but definetly a great idea thanks!
 
Had an idea on the curved track situation.

Actually its only half an idea but maybe one of you may know how to make it a reality.

The idea is to rotate the slider on a tripod while the camera moves to create a curve.
Then if we had an 'invisible piece of string or metal' that anchored the camera
at a constant distance from the red X ....


would this work?
can this idea be developed?
There must be some way to regulate movement along the arc as the slider pivots.


The 'invisible string' is to use robotics via CNC servomotors.
Essentially what we're discovering is that the IndieSlider is but a piece of a story that includes robotics. Trouble is, motors make noise and cause vibrations. Another solution will be to draw from the child's wooden train track- can't remember the make just now. But envision an actual curved track (made up from modules of course) with a groove cut down the center. The Indi-Slider rail would interface with that and that would allow for repeatable moves.
 
I'm looking into a curved track now. Found this manufacturer: https://tech.thk.com/en/products/thk_cat_main.php?id=315

Scroll down the page a bit and checkout the "R Guide Model HCR"...could be cool!

You know, I've made nearly 180º curves just by carefully positioning the rail in reference to my subject and then panning while sliding. The effect is startling! Indeed, a loose rail connection to a single tripod support, accentuates that effect even more!
 
I'm thinking leaving the slider out all together to accomplish a shot like that a mini jib on the tripod would do it
 
You know, I've made nearly 180º curves just by carefully positioning the rail in reference to my subject and then panning while sliding. The effect is startling! Indeed, a loose rail connection to a single tripod support, accentuates that effect even more!

Yep...done it too...very cool shot, but can be a little tricky to get right. That's why I like the idea of a curves track...not only for a wrap-around, but inner & outer arcs. Like a slide-dolly in-slide out kind of thing.
 
I'm thinking leaving the slider out all together to accomplish a shot like that a mini jib on the tripod would do it

Luis is right here.
The physical length of the slider will limit the arc and therefore the focal distance.
Shots other than a CU you would need to go dolly so why waste a whole lot of money
on kit that can only do CU's ?
 
The dolly slider is only for small pushes anyway. You will need a proper full sized dolly for circular track shots, but hey maybe someone that is quite clever will figure it out.
 
ok - finally I get some footage...

ok - finally I get some footage...

It was very quick - so there's no audio here just cut it to a piece of music.

I went out for 45 minutes and drove around the block a few times - threw the slider on some bricks for a few shots.

I know this is technically a slider thread but I discovered some interesting issues with regards to securing your mini-35 adapters - namely that you really have to anchor the f**k out of them.

Not because they will fall off - but because they vibrate independently of the camera - leading to soft images.

Anyway a few samples in here. The reason I only use two low angle slider shots is because the slider was already on the bricks so I was too lazy to unscrew them.

http://www.vimeo.com/3423632

Nick
 
Nick,

What do you mean when you say mini35, do you have any pictures of your rig?

Luis
 
oh sorry - I should have made that clear - it's not a pro piece of kit - I sold the DVX100A a long time back and although I've worked with the HVX200 quite a bit I never got one. Waiting for a scarlet now ;)

The answer to the question is that it's a Canon HF100 with a diy DOF adapter (vibrating) and a whole bunch of indifocus kit on it.

Nick
 
For those of you in the UK, (and other european countires), RS Components sell these parts too.

I will be buying soon to build this.

PM me for RS part numbers.
 
oh ok cool, I actually ordered the extension tubes last night lol... I have to wait to get them to see if they are 54 or 55mm inside diameter so I can order the correct GG Holder.
I just want to build it to have it and because I like building stuff specially with the spring around the corner!
It's just going to be an option adapter for me because I should have the M2e by the end of March. Can't wait!

Plus my friend is desperate for me to make it because he has one of those canon cameras and he's dying to try it out!

I'm so confused with lenses though! I know I want a 50mm and at lease a 35mm but I don't know exactly what all the "f=1.4" and all that stuff means yet so I'm still studying and doing my research online so I can make the right decisions when buying the nikon lenses.

If anyone can help me out with that it would be great, and also with the fact that I don't know if I need to buy lenses with or without AF?
Any help anyone can provide I'm thankful for ever! :)

Thanks,
Luis
 
Luis is right here.
The physical length of the slider will limit the arc and therefore the focal distance.
Shots other than a CU you would need to go dolly so why waste a whole lot of money
on kit that can only do CU's ?
Well because when it's not doing wrap-around CU's it does an admirable dolly when using WA lenses with a decent amount of foreshortening/fore-ground to background separation. You'd be amazed what a WA lens traveling for 1 meter can do . That's the heart and soul of this. Besides, for bigger 'sets' you just shoot the 1 meter slide and pick up the rig and move it along a preset path for the next shot etc. Sure saves you a bunch of railing and money - especially on low budget shoots and travel.
http://vimeo.com/2055255
 
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