DIY IndieSlider...

Yeah, I missed it when I scanned through it :) I guess that huge font size 'EASY CARRIAGE BRAKE' wasn't huge enough for me :P Thanks for the info!!!!
 
grimepoch said:
Yeah, I missed it when I scanned through it :) I guess that huge font size 'EASY CARRIAGE BRAKE' wasn't huge enough for me :P Thanks for the info!!!!
Click to expand...

LMAO! (thanks I needed that today...just one of THOSE days if you know what I mean)

:Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)
 
Hi,

I just bought a 75cm rail from Igus and I have this problem: the Manfrotto screw is shorter than the rail thickness (you can check the pic.) Therefore I need a longer screw if I want to put it straight in the rail. I have to drill the rail because there's no holes right in the middle of it (it's 75cm long).
tornillo_tripode.JPG

tornillo_tripode.JPG


Do you know if I can change the screw? Another option (that I'm trying to avoid) is to screw it to the tripod head but that would mean using 2 tripod heads.

Any help or idea would be really appreciated.

Thank you,

Javier
 
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I know your attachment is different so I don't know if you can do the same thing. I don't have the slider yet, but now that I've tried this, it looks like the bolt will be too long (will block the carriage). I wonder the bolt can be cut/shortened without damaging the thread. Maybe buy a shorter bolt? It may not work as well considering this bolt has special sidings 2/3 the way down which prevent slippage.
 
There really isnt a problem here with the Manfrotto screw being shorter than the rail thickness. I wouldn't bother with it. Here is my reasoning. If you drill it and tap it right then the threads that are on the tripod are more than enough to get good fastening even though it does not go all the way through. Those threads will more than handle the weight of the rail, carriage and most camera's that you would attach to it. In fact most of us have the 16-60 rail that has already been drilled and countersunk. This means that we have far less thread than you will have when you are all done and we make out just fine.

In recap just do a good job drilling and tapping that in the center and you should be good. As I recall from a drilling and tapping guide, for a 3/8's thread you'll want a 21/64 drill bit. best of luck and let us know how it goes.

Correction - 5/16 (so without looking I was off by 1/64 lol, that is if your tapping a 3/8-24)



olho said:
Hi,

I just bought a 75cm rail from Igus and I have this problem: the Manfrotto screw is shorter than the rail thickness (you can check the pic.) Therefore I need a longer screw if I want to put it straight in the rail. I have to drill the rail because there's no holes right in the middle of it (it's 75cm long).
tornillo_tripode.JPG

tornillo_tripode.JPG


Do you know if I can change the screw? Another option (that I'm trying to avoid) is to screw it to the tripod head but that would mean using 2 tripod heads.

Any help or idea would be really appreciated.

Thank you,

Javier
Click to expand...
 
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olho said:
Hi,

I just bought a 75cm rail from Igus and I have this problem: the Manfrotto screw is shorter than the rail thickness (you can check the pic.) Therefore I need a longer screw if I want to put it straight in the rail. I have to drill the rail because there's no holes right in the middle of it (it's 75cm long).



Do you know if I can change the screw? Another option (that I'm trying to avoid) is to screw it to the tripod head but that would mean using 2 tripod heads.

Any help or idea would be really appreciated.

Thank you,

Javier
Click to expand...

There are plenty of threads on the tripod. You use a 5/16" drill (hole size) when tapping 3/8"-16.

Combo pack: http://www.buy.com/prod/3-8-16-tap-drill-combo-pack/q/listingid/79657048/loc/66357/203888642.html

:happy:

For reference:
3/8-16 drill a 5/16" hole
1/4-20 drill a 13/64" hole
 
Thank you so much guys!

I wasn't sure that this little thread would hold all the gear.

Dfewer thanks for the info but my attachment is different and unlikely to be dismounted (AFAIC.)

Another idea that someone proposed me was screwing a Manfrotto fast plate to the rail. That would mean using a tripod head which is actually very useful for vertical shots. So maybe the way to go is buying a QR plate with a 3/8" screw therefore I can use both the tripod alone and the head with the QR plate.

This is the QR plate:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...PL_38_200PL_38_Rectangular_Quick_Release.html

What do you think guys?

Thanks again for your help.
 
olho said:
Thank you so much guys!

I wasn't sure that this little thread would hold all the gear.

Dfewer thanks for the info but my attachment is different and unlikely to be dismounted (AFAIC.)

Another idea that someone proposed me was screwing a Manfrotto fast plate to the rail. That would mean using a tripod head which is actually very useful for vertical shots. So maybe the way to go is buying a QR plate with a 3/8" screw therefore I can use both the tripod alone and the head with the QR plate.

This is the QR plate:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...PL_38_200PL_38_Rectangular_Quick_Release.html

What do you think guys?

Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...

This has been discussed many times... yes you can mount the rail on a head and put another head on the carriage and get some cool crane-like shots. BUT it's tricky and takes some practice. You should also have a good heavy-duty tripod that is sandbagged for this stuff.

I'm in the process of putting together a video of the various shots you can achieve with a ZazaSlider... standby....
 
Ok, thanks Zaza,
I went today to the hardware store... jeez!! It's not an easy job to find the proper screw, drill bit and tap. First of all, I live in Spain and they don't know anything about inches. I tried to make the conversion with a bit table but it isn't that easy. Well, finally I believe I got the good one! :) Nevertheless I'm not quite sure...
Another thing is the price: 50€ the tap (3 taps) and the tap drive!
I think the next time I will go for an already made one. Save lots of time. Too many troubles to get it right!
 
olho said:
Ok, thanks Zaza,
I went today to the hardware store... jeez!! It's not an easy job to find the proper screw, drill bit and tap. First of all, I live in Spain and they don't know anything about inches. I tried to make the conversion with a bit table but it isn't that easy. Well, finally I believe I got the good one! :) Nevertheless I'm not quite sure...
Another thing is the price: 50€ the tap (3 taps) and the tap drive!
I think the next time I will go for an already made one. Save lots of time. Too many troubles to get it right!
Click to expand...

I wish I caught you first... I sell the rail & carriage, all tapped and ready to go as a service to the non-DIYer. I've seen many people in Europe have trouble finding simple stuff. Normally you can get the tap and t-wrench on eBay for a reasonable price.
 
I cant wait for another great show to roll through the local center (like a bike show) so I can get out there and work with these new sliders.
 
Alternate End Stop Solution For 10 x 40mm Rail

Alternate End Stop Solution For 10 x 40mm Rail

If you use the 10 x 40mm rail this is a great solution for those who would rather not go through the hassle of tapping the ends. Plus they also work as a pretty good set of feet for sliding on the ground. They can also be easily relocated to 'lock" the slider anywhere on the rail. I think it's a cheap, versatile and easy solution for those with a lighter setup.

Here are some photos. http://yfrog.com/1simg0383hjx

Here is where to order. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324675_200324675

Here is a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBkKHpBphxI
 
First off, nice find. I don't want to take that away from you. On another note however. I can't imagine they grip the rail enough to stop a runaway carriage. A carriage with a head (possibly) and a camera mounted can get a pretty good amount of inertia when it starts to slide due to being off balance or whatever. While I credit you with a nice find I would also like to hazard a disclaimer "If not properly secured, your camera may very well fly off the end of the rail and become a really expensive paperweight"

Just though I would add that. I'm not trying to dog you, just be extra careful is all I'm saying.
 
N635DC said:
First off, nice find. I don't want to take that away from you. On another note however. I can't imagine they grip the rail enough to stop a runaway carriage. A carriage with a head (possibly) and a camera mounted can get a pretty good amount of inertia when it starts to slide due to being off balance or whatever. While I credit you with a nice find I would also like to hazard a disclaimer "If not properly secured, your camera may very well fly off the end of the rail and become a really expensive paperweight"

Just though I would add that. I'm not trying to dog you, just be extra careful is all I'm saying.
Click to expand...

Most users have a mechanism at the ends of the rail to keep the carriage from overshooting the end.
 
N635DC said:
First off, nice find. I don't want to take that away from you. On another note however. I can't imagine they grip the rail enough to stop a runaway carriage. A carriage with a head (possibly) and a camera mounted can get a pretty good amount of inertia when it starts to slide due to being off balance or whatever. While I credit you with a nice find I would also like to hazard a disclaimer "If not properly secured, your camera may very well fly off the end of the rail and become a really expensive paperweight"

Just though I would add that. I'm not trying to dog you, just be extra careful is all I'm saying.
Click to expand...

Thanks and I understand your concern. It's possible I guess, but they are REALLY tight! I wager the force of a runaway of that magnitude would tip the tripod over before these came off. Again this is probably best for medium/light rigs and certainly fine unless you're some kind of sliding maniac. I have a T2i so it's perfect for me.
 
I just thunk this up right before going to bed, improve on the idea if you wish, but since the 40mm rails arent hollow on the ends your options are a little limited. Quick and dirty end stop solution to protect agianst worst case scenario (10-40 rail).

1) Move those rubber stoppers in about an inch.

2) Drill the flat end of the rail near the edge in the center with a 3/8" bit on both sides.

3) Thread a 1 1/2'' - 2" 3/8 bolt with 2 nuts half way up

4) Insert bolt into drilled hole and thread with 2 more nuts

5 )Tighten the nuts up agianst each other so that the bolt grips the rail from both sides.

6) Adjust height as nessecary so that the carriage can not roll part the bolt

7) Use the second nut on each side to lock the first ones in place

8) Let your camera enjoy the luxurious safety that less than 20 minutes and $1.00 in hardware can provide.

Best,

Joe
 

Here is my test footage with my WS-20-80 Drylin 'W' rail 1500mm

I'm done testing and will be shooting a classic car show on May 1st. I'm so pumped to have my slider setup for this one.


Derrick Perrin
Big Box Pro
 
Thanks for all your testing and input on this forum ZaZa. I could have made some costly mistakes without your information. I shot the machine work in my shop and will be working on a DIY video soon. I will keep you posted.
 
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