diy 4 Bank and Diva challenge response!

MattinSTL said:
If you look back on page 3 you can read my post for an easy recipe for a DIY kino diva style light. Even though the Fulham ballasts are $18... they're good. If you want to run 2 lights per each ballast (cutting the ballast cost down, but also reducing the selectable "banks") then you can pay about $20 for a WH5 which will run 2 lamps instead of just one. These Workhorse ballasts are very small and come in several configurations to accommodate any lighting design.

Is everybody good for switches or do I need to break those out as well?

Also... I should have fuse holders, and I may or may not have fuses... Oh and I've also got power cord strain reliefs... these things took some serious searching. If you don't know what the strain relief is from this picture... then you probably don't want one. It's flexible in all directions and it fits a wide range of power cord diameters... but I used them on everything from a round, 10 amp power cord, up to a round 15 amp power cord. The best way to power your lights is to buy a nice extension cord from Lowe's, Costco, Home Depot... and then cut off the female end.

Strain reliefs... $2 each also. I think I have about 40 of those left... and as I recall... they cost me around $4 each. They are very nice, and very very heavy duty.

newlights3.jpg
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The light u have looks a whole lot like the one in my apt right now...
Did you make it?

Do you sell this thing? Can i buy one? (or 5!) I love this thing but I have no idea where it came from.


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Wow... yeah, that's one of mine. That is really funny. I sold about 40 or so of those on the forums. I stopped selling those because I was making about $40 NET on them. I figured I was making around $3/hr to build those things. :grin:

I stopped selling those those when a forum member (who got banned over this issue) tried to paypal scam me out of two of those... with all kinds of extra custom features.

The last models I built used Neutrik Powercon connectors and special power cables instead of the power cord you have there... and this guy had a friend of his, with a Paypal confirmed address, set up the deal... and then once the items were shipped that guy denied that he ordered the lights and the other guy was going to pick them up... and the first guy could deny receiving anything... and long story short... I was able to intercept the shipment from the NY post office... and if you can't tell it was a freakin' mess... and I nearly lost $500 worth of stuff.

So... long story... but that guy killed my enthusiasm on those lights. I'm not done with lights though... you'll eventually see something from me again.

Do you see that hole between the two flat-headed carriage bolts? You can thread a manfrotto 14-38 (used to be 3102 I believe)... and any umbrella adapter type of adjustable arm (manfrotto 2905 I think?) and you can mount that light and aim it anywhere like a mini-Diva... you should find the output to be nearly the same as 2 banks of a Diva also... the deep parabolic reflector design is something I was particularly proud of. The part you need is even cheaper from Mel Pierce Camera out in Cali... get that manfrotto adapter and you can start using that light on any normal stand or c-stand.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546490-REG/Bogen_Manfrotto_014_38_014_38_Rapid_Adapter_.html
 
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MattinSTL said:
BTW... I shipped two packages today... one to the OP and one to McGee... and I charged $2 and $5 respectively... and both packages cost me $9 to ship... so let's say $5 shipping from now on. I have NO problem eating some shipping for DVXusers... but let's just call it $5 and I'll eat the rest. At this point I seriously have probably a thousand bucks in parts sitting here... so I have no problem recouping 50% or more of that cost and helping members out at the same time... so if you get enough stuff then I'll pay at least as much shipping as you will.

It's all good... I'm hoping to see some really cool projects from you guys before too long.
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Got my stuff Matt, thanks!

I'll have to do more research on how to wire everything together so I don't fry all of these good components.

Thanks

Matt G
 
Wow that was fast! Thanks for responding... hopefully Nathaniel will have his stuff in the next day or two. I try to ship out same day, I guess that worked. :)

You guys are going to give me the bug again.

I really like LEDs for everything they can do... including durability and a unique quality beam, but flos are still the cheapest lumens per dollar, and with a good quality bulb of high CRI the even spread is really nice.

I'll definitely be holding back enough of these parts to fully outfit a big cyc wall, and probably some of my own monster fixtures. :beer:
 
Parts update due to several international inquiries.

The only way I'm shipping any parts overseas is if you want to send a money order or bank draft and you are comfortable with waiting for that payment to fully clear. So 2-3 days AFTER I receive your check and deposit it. I've accepted foreign checks before and had them clear... and then the following day the money is back out again, with the bank stating that there was a problem, and they simply deducted it right back out of my account.

So, if you are comfortable with that arrangement then I will ship to you as quickly as possible and for the lowest possible cost... but I will NOT accept Paypal payments for ANY overseas and/or un-trackable shipments.

International shipments will be shipped via USPS>Local Carrier, and can't be tracked. Sorry for the inconvenience, but I'm not sending another shipment international via Paypal and risking delivery problems due to customs, local delivery, or simply a person I don't know telling Paypal that they never received their package... because then I not only sold parts at or below cost, but also paid shipping and for the original (hard to get) parts... which is insult to injury when I'm trying to do you guys a favor.

So that's the deal with international... everybody here in the USA... Paypal is fine. International? There's some BS involved, but if you want to deal with it then so will I.
 
For the ballast you showed us will it power 2X55w Flo lights and if so do you have a wiring diagram? Thanks.

Edit: Nevermind I didn't read the whole thread. Thanks.
 
Oh by the way i got the supports on tuesday! they are great. I want to order more stuff once i figure out what i need! quahh i hope u still have stuff
_nate
 
I'm sure I'll still be able to take care of you... also... I'll include some freebies for you. I started doing that for the DVXuser members. (I think I gave you more then you ordered, but I'll include even more free stuff for you next time). I've been building stuff for a long time and I'm obscenely stocked with parts to make various creations.
 
Matt if you EVER decided to make another one of those diamond plate light fixtures I would be all over that like a cheap suit!
 
mcgeedigital said:
Matt if you EVER decided to make another one of those diamond plate light fixtures I would be all over that like a cheap suit!
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"It's a runner board... no, it's a trailer ramp... no, it's a 2 bank fluoro light!!!!

It is a pretty kickin' design. I build a skateboard dolly a few years back with a diamond plate deck - love it ;)
 
I have several plates of diamond plate left if anybody wants to buy some of that also... it's about 23" x 16" or so... I'll have to measure it for exact size (it's not at my house)... but if anybody wants some... I can sell that for CHEAP also.
 
Anyone know of a good remote ballast that can operate up to 30' away from the lamp? I was looking at the longhorse models, but the spec sheet says they only go out to twenty feet, which won't work for my needs.
 
I don't know of one plus you've got to get a good multi-conductor, military style connector to handle the high voltage going through there too. Those are pretty hard to find.

Why won't 20 feet work? You can put a longer power cord on the unit (by 10 feet) and that gets you closer to whatever you're lighting.
 
Cool Lights said:
I don't know of one plus you've got to get a good multi-conductor, military style connector to handle the high voltage going through there too. Those are pretty hard to find.
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Tell me about it! I've spent hours looking. Found a few decent ones, but they're all freakishly expensive. I may just end up going with the "official" Kino connectors. B&H sells them, and they're not too expensive.


Why won't 20 feet work? You can put a longer power cord on the unit (by 10 feet) and that gets you closer to whatever you're lighting.
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Unfortunately for a lot of the lighting situations I seem to find myself it, having the header cable be that much shorter will mean the ballast ends up in an awkward enough position to negate the advantage of having a remote ballast in the first place. :(
 
The connectors you want for your remote ballast needs are called AMPHENOL CONNECTORS. You can get these from www.newark.com or digi-key or McMaster Carr... or from a bunch of other places... Mouser, etc. etc.

http://www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/amphenolRF/97Guide.pdf

There are many types... just look at how many pins you need and get that connector... SIMPLE. Also... get male and female (obviously) because you are creating your own "proprietary" system... that isn't really proprietary, but looks confusing to most normal folks.

For simpler, lower powered connections... I suggest you look at Neutrik. For the basic 3 wire electrical connections I really like the Powercon line of connectors. They are very very cool.

As far as a remote ballast being no problem at 30' but a big problem at 20'... you have me scratching my head there. The main reason I can imagine remote ballast to be advantageous is to eliminate the ballast weight on a stand mounted light... but 20' still seems like a long way. Do you realize how SMALL the LongHorse ballasts are? We're talking about adding a SMALL brick, inline with the power cable leading to the lights. These things are so small you could integrate a rectangular project box into the power cord already... and the power switching (or tube selection) doesn't need to be ANYWHERE NEAR that "brick"... the brick could be sealed, and forgotten.

My .02... but of course I obviously don't know your special circumstances.
 
MattinSTL said:
The connectors you want for your remote ballast needs are called AMPHENOL CONNECTORS. You can get these from www.newark.com or digi-key or McMaster Carr... or from a bunch of other places... Mouser, etc. etc.

http://www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/amphenolRF/97Guide.pdf

There are many types... just look at how many pins you need and get that connector... SIMPLE. Also... get male and female (obviously) because you are creating your own "proprietary" system... that isn't really proprietary, but looks confusing to most normal folks.
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Thanks for that bit of info. I had no idea that there was even a proper technical name for them. I'll give them a more thorough investigation.


and the power switching (or tube selection) doesn't need to be ANYWHERE NEAR that "brick"... the brick could be sealed, and forgotten.

My .02... but of course I obviously don't know your special circumstances.
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Wow... I didn't even think about the tube selection switches being separate from the ballasts. But it makes so much sense. The Divas even do it that way, with ballasts onboard the fixture itself.

Thanks for the great suggestions!
 
Dude I'm here to help! :beer:

Problem solved. Hey you can even put the switching at EITHER end of that cable, but the most logical place to put it is on the light itself.

If you use a multi-conductor cable like Kino-Flo uses then you can EASILY put switches at either end... or anywhere. You could even have a switch-box at the male end of the plug away from the set. Realize that for this type of light... if it's switchable... and you use independent ballasts for independent switching... then each wire isn't conducting much amperage/power. Like... less then .4 amps... which means you can use a multi-conductor cable (as Kino does) and have plenty of wires available to do whatever you want.
 
MattinSTL said:
The connectors you want for your remote ballast needs are called AMPHENOL CONNECTORS. You can get these from www.newark.com or digi-key or McMaster Carr... or from a bunch of other places... Mouser, etc. etc.

http://www.newark.com/pdfs/techarticles/amphenolRF/97Guide.pdf

There are many types... just look at how many pins you need and get that connector... SIMPLE. Also... get male and female (obviously) because you are creating your own "proprietary" system... that isn't really proprietary, but looks confusing to most normal folks.

For simpler, lower powered connections... I suggest you look at Neutrik. For the basic 3 wire electrical connections I really like the Powercon line of connectors. They are very very cool.

As far as a remote ballast being no problem at 30' but a big problem at 20'... you have me scratching my head there. The main reason I can imagine remote ballast to be advantageous is to eliminate the ballast weight on a stand mounted light... but 20' still seems like a long way. Do you realize how SMALL the LongHorse ballasts are? We're talking about adding a SMALL brick, inline with the power cable leading to the lights. These things are so small you could integrate a rectangular project box into the power cord already... and the power switching (or tube selection) doesn't need to be ANYWHERE NEAR that "brick"... the brick could be sealed, and forgotten.

My .02... but of course I obviously don't know your special circumstances.
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Thanks for the tip re: connectors - that's been a real dead end for me!

I'm just on the Digi-key site now looking for amphenol connectors now - seems like there are hundreds of results when I search for them. Out of curosity, which one did do you end up choosing and why? Also, what are you thoughts on cabling brands / specs?
 
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Dude you're taking this into PHD levels of explanation... too much detail.

Look at the amphenol connectors that KINO FLO uses... all you have to do is count the holes and look at the configuration. You need 2 holes/pins for each separately switchable bulb... and the ballast uses 3 wires from the wall... and 2 wires EACH to each bulb... so do the math. How many bulbs does your fixture use? How many ballasts are in the main "brick" of ballasts to accomplish the switching ablitity?

Now take that number... and each necessary number of wires... and make sure you have at least that many holes/pins in the given configuration of amphenol connector you choose. Next... be sure to get both male and female versions of said connector.

Finally... get a cheap ass tester from FLUKE (best) or even Radio Shack... and that way you can be sure you have the pins and connections proper through basic conductive testing after you get it all set up. Put one lead on each hole and one on each pin, and make sure you have proper continuity... i.e. you wired it right.

It's easier then you think. All this stuff hypnotizes people into over-thinking every stage of development. Pay attention to the connector sizes... (if you don't have convert.exe then I suggest you download it for free)... and then choose the style you like... with enough pins/holes to suit your light design.

Hmm... I'm mildly toasted... I wonder if this will sound as simple to me in the morning? I wager that it will.
 
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