did i get a good deal?

I would say you got a hell of a deal. Wanna sell it?

I'd send the camera to Tim and have him look at it and clean it up.
 
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yeah im very stoked. already planned on sending it to him and all that. do you know how much itll cost tim, just a normal clean and tweak and all that? or an estimate? ive got to sell a few things ive been meaning to sell and work a little bit more to get some film and have tim check it and all that. i might sell the cooke lenses if anyone is interested
 
Ben,

The first thing needed is for the camera to be inspected. That I do for no charge. If the camera needs an overhaul, which is usually the case, that runs $575 for labor and $25 for parts, and that includes taking the camera completely apart down to the very last nut and bolt, ultrasonically cleaning everything, and reassembling the camera using all original ARRI factory lubricants and setting the camera back to original ARRI factory specs. So basically you will have a camera in the same shape as when it left the factory.

If anything on the camera is broken or missing, that could increase the cost of the rebuild, but after the inspection I can determine that and the price I give you before I start work on the camera will be within 5% of the final price. And after I inspect the camera and give you a price for the rebuild, you are free to decide to proceed or just have me send the camera back to you.

-Tim
 
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Don't sell the Cookes! They're the sharpest lenses of the bunch.
The 12-120 was the 16mm standard for years, although it's going to be visibly lower in contrast than the Cookes, particularly at wider apertures.
The 17-85 might be a re-mounted Bolex lens (can't tell from the pics) and with the attached side finder, will lose some f stop ...about 10% as i recall.
Sounds like you got a great deal.
Good Luck.
Ken
the Screen Skins guy
 
one more thing. i thought the way it worked was you buy a meter (in my case the l-358 sekonic) and put in the iso and shutter speed (if im shooting at 32fps, 1/64th shutter speed) and it gives you the f stop to use. but a guy i was talking to says the meters dont use that, they use f/sec instead of shutter speed. i am lost and dont know how to meter. can someone please explain this to me?
 
Color said:
one more thing. i thought the way it worked was you buy a meter (in my case the l-358 sekonic) and put in the iso and shutter speed (if im shooting at 32fps, 1/64th shutter speed) and it gives you the f stop to use. but a guy i was talking to says the meters dont use that, they use f/sec instead of shutter speed. i am lost and dont know how to meter. can someone please explain this to me?
Click to expand...

Ben,

Alot of meters have a cine scale as well as the regular shutter speed scale. They are usually set up for motion picture cameras with an 180º shutter (which your new Arriflex will have). So you set them for a cine speed like 24, which represents 24 fps and with an 180º shutter 24 fps is equivalent to 1/48 sec shutter speed. You can use a meter that doesn't have a cine scale by just doubling the fps and taking the reciprocal, like you did above. 32 fps is a shutter speed of 1/64 sec. You need to round off because most light meters won't have 1/64 sec shutter speed on them, they will have 1/60 sec. But with the latitude of film, you will be fine.

Make sense?,
-Tim
 
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