D7000 buyers remorse

FYI "strobist" is, usually, the rookies.
Yes, I started as a strobist and have long ago moved onto full studio strobes ("strobes" does not solely refer to speedlights intended for on camera flash) along with a studio.
The GH2 would perform just fine at 1/160, without any regard to how light the room is.
 
Calling "strobist" the rookies? Wow... you must be really good.

See Dustin Diaz's Strobist flickr photostream. See his Strobist info photostream.

See how he does OUTDOOR all by himself. He's darn good and he calls himself just a strobist. So I presume you must be the god of lighting if you call him a rookie?

Just go to strobist.com and post about 1/160s not being slow. The army of strobists will take good care of you.
 
All of this conjecture about what makes a pro camera vs. an amateur one is the reason that so many people cover the logo and just concentrate on the artistic eye that creates the stills and the video. This mentality is the reason I got out of still work when digital hit big cause EVERYONE went with a nice digital and click click click with an onboard flash. Nothing screams amateur more than that especially considering most of them don't know how to light and compose a shot...

An artist who blames his tools isn't much of one, and one who applauds and condems others cause of it isn't much of one at all. you could have a 5D and shoot piss poor stuff and who really cares when the end results are what counts.... So calling one thing amateur or another pro at this point is purely a pissing contest. Pick something you like, go to town and be happy with it. Personally I've found nothing more soul crushing than shooting a wedding. I've done it, and might do it again, but it's a thankless job with little to no upsides....
 
stonebat said:
Calling "strobist" the rookies? Wow... you must be really good.

See Dustin Diaz's Strobist flickr photostream. See his Strobist info photostream.

See how he does OUTDOOR all by himself. He's darn good and he calls himself just a strobist. So I presume you must be the god of lighting if you call him a rookie?

Just go to strobist.com and post about 1/160s not being slow. The army of strobists will take good care of you.
Click to expand...

1. "strobist" is a term, I never heard in professional photography .... well.... until 2007ish - it seems to me a term that only had been created upon the strobist internet site. So I think there first must be a DEFINITION founded, what exactly that "strobist" is...

2. 1/160 ..... but you forget: the GH2 has a smaller sensor than a D700 (as I am using in studio) and so the 1/250 from my D700 might have the same exposure as the 1/160 from a GH2 .... perhaps the GH2 is even that less sensisive that its 1/160 on GH2 is BETTER than the 1/250 of a D3, D700.

So - you have to consider the sensor size TOGETHER with the shortest sync speed. And that's where the D3 is NOT better than the GH2. Because the GH2 really NEEDS the 1/160 to get the same amount of light on its sensor as the D3 with 1/250.

3. guys - how "good" anyone is at light design is also a matter of taste IMHO. Because it takes you just about 10-50 hours to really UNDERSTAND the meaning of laying light on a subject or laying shadow on it and what can be used to create soft light, hard light, shadow, fade etc.

The rest is: CREATIVITY and has NOTHING to do with beeing a "rookie" or not. I know many professionals practicing for years, mastering the light, but NOT beeing able to perform art.... and I know also newcomers who shoot incredibly good pictures within their FIRST year of photography, just because they have the TASTE for it and absolved the very few hours of theory required for lighting.

When I started photographing in studio, I went ANALOG (no picture control until after bath...) and with no portionable modelling light. Today you have:

a) immediate control on lcd over your done exposure (with histogram!! - something we'd have dreamt for some years ago!)

b) you have modelling light on the studio flashes, that are portionable - means: you SEE actually before even taking the picture, how strong each light- and shadow-source will be.

Come on!! - The hardest thing about light desing is YOUR imagination, phatasy, creativity etc.

It's about how much you beeing an artist. Not how good you master the light. Because that should not be a matter anymore after some 10-50 hours in studio.
 
cici said:
1/160 ..... but you forget: the GH2 has a smaller sensor than a D700 (as I am using in studio) and so the 1/250 from my D700 might have the same exposure as the 1/160 from a GH2 .... perhaps the GH2 is even that less sensisive that its 1/160 on GH2 is BETTER than the 1/250 of a D3, D700.
Click to expand...
Why don't u write a sci-fi book with that level of conspiracy theory? Sorry... I don't feel like reading rest of your posting.
 
Fujifilm Finepix X100 spec is out. Flash sync speed is 1/4000s. It has in-lens shutter design to achieve such fast speed. Fast sync speed is useful for two things with strobist setup. Catch a fast moving object in low light. Brighten up subject in a bright sunlight without over blowing the background highlight. Also 4 letter leaf shutter for less shake. Built in ND filter. Noise control at ISO 6400 looks very good.

I'm torn between Voigtlandger 25mm 0.95 and X100...
 
Never mind about X100. There will be X200, X300, etc.

For now M43 all the way!!! GH2 + pancake + Voigtlander lens + future hack.
 
stonebat said:
Yeah that's better time spent.
Click to expand...

Finally we agree.

That 1/4000 sync speed for the Finepix (what a cool retro-design!!) is great indeed. A picture of a cat, jumping in the garden in some backlight situation might require some 1/1000 or even shorter.

The tricks we did so far:
1) if there's too much light for 1/250 (e.g. beach, light in the back), then we 'd go with some heavy ND-filter (really heavy degrees!)

2) for "studies" of fast objects we 'd use the extreme short burn times of the flashes itself and would care for the rather dark background (also important for stroboscope) :

a) wait until evening
b) or studio with dark background
c) or darken the outdoor background with a black semi-transparent tissue or dark transperent shield
d) or go for HDR or DRI-shots

Of course that's all just "cheating", because your D3 hasn't the 1/2000 or even 1/4000 sync speed required, but until now, we could manage any situation with these tricks.

Hopefully, professional still cameras will get high-speed sync-specs soon. I'm glad, I mostly take pictures of posing people (studio and outdoor), then 1/250 is just ok.

BTW: there is a new flash technology by HENSEL that allows you (in studio) to take "greenscreen-like" shots with 2 pictures in (almost) 1 take: the flashes are connected together and as soon as you take the "normal" photo, it will take a second one, a split second after the first one, with only the background lit, so that you have your b/w-mask ready for any backgound in post. This requires an ultrashort sequal time for the flashes, and that's exactly what these Hensels got in that special edition. Plus the software of course to fire only the background lights for the second shot.
 
You must be good in lighting. Thanks for the tip. But I'm not really interested in sharpening lighting skill. Let's talk about cinemagraphy and video workflows... in some other time.
 
stonebat said:
Calling "strobist" the rookies? Wow... you must be really good.

See Dustin Diaz's Strobist flickr photostream. See his Strobist info photostream.

See how he does OUTDOOR all by himself. He's darn good and he calls himself just a strobist. So I presume you must be the god of lighting if you call him a rookie?

Just go to strobist.com and post about 1/160s not being slow. The army of strobists will take good care of you.
Click to expand...

Lol.
First off I said "usually" the rookies.
The fact of the matter is that many rookies start out on speedlights as strobists, then realize the shortcomings of the little speedlights then move to full studio strobes. That's the path I took, and many other's do as well. There is a distinct reason pro studios have real strobes and not strobist speedlights.

That Dustin stuff is good, but there are far better Strobists IMO.

Do I know how to light photos? I cetainly think so, so do my paying clients. My stuff is here.
 
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