charles
Well-known member
With all the good advice from some to keep these items I decided to sell regardless. I will entertain your offers but as I know most of you here are on a tight budget I may or may not get the price range I'd expect. The rig is estimated between 8-10K between 8-10K for both vest and Sled. Now this is allot for many on this board but like I said, I will entertain your offers and if I see something I like, than fine. I'll let it go for that price. But what you get are components that you will find on top stabilizer brands. N.B. The sled comes with only one AB Trimpac 14.4v battery. I have two more that I borrowed as well as a charger. But guy is willing to sell it. So if you're interested than he will give me a good deal. As you know chargers cost a lot and this one have place to charge 4 AB batteries.
Custom sled:
* 1.5" outer Carbon Fiber post
* Aluminum inner post (not painted)
* Steadicam Archer I top stage with a modified 3-pol 24v contact addition ( bought from Steadicam operator Rick Lewis. Rick had the 24v installed)
* Lower junction box contacts have:
1. 2 Hirose 'video out'
2. 2 BNC 'video out'
3. 2 (2-pol) LEMO 12v 'power out'
4. 12/24v (3-pol) LEMO 'power out'
5. HD-SDI contact (not wired internally)
6. 1 12v 'power in' (MK-V wired)
7. 1 12/24v 'power in' (MK-V wired)
8. ON/OFF switch for entire system
9. 12 to 24v switch
* 1 12/24v dual AB Battery Mount (from MK-v)
* 1 AB GOLD battery mount
* Steadicam EFP Gimbal ( bought from Steadicam operator, Steve Fracol. It was serviced before I bought it)
* MK-v EFP replacement knurled gimbal grip
* A 4-point VD (video distributor). So all video outputs on the bottom connectors are wired. There is one contact left over for another.
* The lower lower battery mount can be adjusted for fore & Aft, by loosening the Manfrotto 357 slider. I had another slider which made it easier for micro adjustment but it did not deem too be very solid. So I exchanged
it for the 357, which is more solid. Any number of batteries can be used. 1-3. I installed a Schottky diode within each battery mount for extra safety. This prevents power from flowing back into itself. There are two Automatic 5A fuses installed. (you can replace these 5A with 10A instead. My Tech guy felt the 10A wasn't needed at the time, since I was not flying anything that power consuming. I had planned on changing it but never got around to doing it) . The fuses are marked with the number 7 & 8. When this trips all you have to do is push the button to reset the system.
The internal wiring of the system, which is pretty much the same as the standard systems available today. You get a rough schematic of the internal wiring of the system, which is pretty much the same as the standard systems available today. But just to be sure I did a schematic so you know how the wiring is done.
The monitor is an 9" SD monitor. Nothing fancy except you can rotate the pic. This works perfectly if you decide to go into low mode and do not want to rotate the entire monitor. The monitor has a 450nit. I know it is not that much but you can replace it or you can just decide to get the sled without the monitor. But you will have to make your own monitor mount. The rods are Cf but only strong very light monitors. I would suggest aluminum rods instead.
.........................
* A heavily modified EFP Steadicam vest. I had new parts machined with thicker material at the chest plate and spar, since the original spars were broken when I purchased the vest from Steadicam operator Elite, Steve
Fracol. I also machine a new female standard socket block. I modified the vest to have ratchets instead of the velcro.
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Custom sled:
* 1.5" outer Carbon Fiber post
* Aluminum inner post (not painted)
* Steadicam Archer I top stage with a modified 3-pol 24v contact addition ( bought from Steadicam operator Rick Lewis. Rick had the 24v installed)
* Lower junction box contacts have:
1. 2 Hirose 'video out'
2. 2 BNC 'video out'
3. 2 (2-pol) LEMO 12v 'power out'
4. 12/24v (3-pol) LEMO 'power out'
5. HD-SDI contact (not wired internally)
6. 1 12v 'power in' (MK-V wired)
7. 1 12/24v 'power in' (MK-V wired)
8. ON/OFF switch for entire system
9. 12 to 24v switch
* 1 12/24v dual AB Battery Mount (from MK-v)
* 1 AB GOLD battery mount
* Steadicam EFP Gimbal ( bought from Steadicam operator, Steve Fracol. It was serviced before I bought it)
* MK-v EFP replacement knurled gimbal grip
* A 4-point VD (video distributor). So all video outputs on the bottom connectors are wired. There is one contact left over for another.
* The lower lower battery mount can be adjusted for fore & Aft, by loosening the Manfrotto 357 slider. I had another slider which made it easier for micro adjustment but it did not deem too be very solid. So I exchanged
it for the 357, which is more solid. Any number of batteries can be used. 1-3. I installed a Schottky diode within each battery mount for extra safety. This prevents power from flowing back into itself. There are two Automatic 5A fuses installed. (you can replace these 5A with 10A instead. My Tech guy felt the 10A wasn't needed at the time, since I was not flying anything that power consuming. I had planned on changing it but never got around to doing it) . The fuses are marked with the number 7 & 8. When this trips all you have to do is push the button to reset the system.
The internal wiring of the system, which is pretty much the same as the standard systems available today. You get a rough schematic of the internal wiring of the system, which is pretty much the same as the standard systems available today. But just to be sure I did a schematic so you know how the wiring is done.
The monitor is an 9" SD monitor. Nothing fancy except you can rotate the pic. This works perfectly if you decide to go into low mode and do not want to rotate the entire monitor. The monitor has a 450nit. I know it is not that much but you can replace it or you can just decide to get the sled without the monitor. But you will have to make your own monitor mount. The rods are Cf but only strong very light monitors. I would suggest aluminum rods instead.
.........................
* A heavily modified EFP Steadicam vest. I had new parts machined with thicker material at the chest plate and spar, since the original spars were broken when I purchased the vest from Steadicam operator Elite, Steve
Fracol. I also machine a new female standard socket block. I modified the vest to have ratchets instead of the velcro.
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