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Why not just post a frame grab or two from the footage that prompted you to start the thread? I'm curious to see. If you can, post a screen grab of the wfm as I did for comparison.
BTW, I would not "eyeball" exposure. Try editman's experiment. There's no need to eyeball it. Your camera is a big old light meter. Use it. If the waveform is difficult to see or understand use the zebras. I use both all the time.
Unfortunately, Cinesota's right (and pretty funny). There are lots of threads like this, griping about the AF100 and very often not productive because it appears the OP doesn't want to arrive at a workable solution, whatever that is. They would rather drone on about this aspect or that about the camera they don't like. The best way to give gravity to your claims is to post your results. Let's see those frame grabs!
I wouldn't say I gave up on the AF100- just recognized it's limitations and dealt with them. I really only sold it because by the time I get around to shooting another feature, it will be old news and heavily depreciated. I still have an HVX to shoot run of the mill stuff. I came to appreciate the AF100's ability to get great shallow focus shots using Nikkor lenses and adaptors. And the fact that I can view AF100 footage on a 24" Imac full screen and it looks great, while the HVX footage is obviously lower rez. I dont regret shooting the feature on the AF in any way. To me , all the AF needs to be the "perfect camera" is more dynamic range to prevent exposure issues, and built in 1:1 focus assist with a high rez viewfinder. 24mps worked fine for me since I did only light color grading.
The advice to underexpose faces and lift the mid tones in grading is a solid one. It is actually one of the only ways to get good looking skin tones under sunlight with the AF100. The AF100 has a well registered problem with highlights handling. Some try to play it down and say it's operator error. But it's definitely not as some others will testify, even in this thread. It's a very real fault of the camera and the only way is to underexpose as if there was no tomorrow. When you think your skins are underexposed, underexpose some more and you might be just there. The problem with this is that faces come out looking quite flat as with some of the examples posted here. The skin looks nice but it's a rather flat image. This is the reason that most good looking skin tones you see posted from the AF100 are either studio lighting, lots of soft lighting or flat lighting. If it's a good looking daylight shot it will have that underexposed flat look to it or it will look bad. But it's not that contrasty faces are not possible with the AF100. They are, specially under fully controlled situations. Like night shots for example. But even when the lighting is high contrast you can't really have highlights on your skins with the AF100. The contrast is there but the bright side is pretty flat looking:
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This is one of hscully's screen grabs which are some of the best looking AF100 frame grabs I have seen out there, where they are not mushy or have ugly clipping, or are over sharpened and over saturated. They look really nice. But they are done under more controlled situations.
But under direct sunlight it's hard to control that. As said many times you have to close the iris till you see 55-70% (it varies depending on who you are talking to) zebras only on the brightest spots of your skins. This means effectively killing all hot spots on your skins, meaning no real highlights. Brighter parts of the face are not necessarily highlights. So you can get nice high contrast faces with the AF100, such as the above, although no easily. But you absolutely can't get anything such as these, neither in a studio or under sunlight:
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Attempting anything like that with the AF100 would be suicide and would turn out a nasty yellow and have posterization all over it. To expose with the AF100 in all these shots you would have to close your lens till these highlights were no longer highlights but just brighter parts of the face, effectively flattening you faces. If you are willing to understand that and accept it, you can make ok looking skins with the AF100. If what you want is cinematography such as the above the AF100 is the wrong camera as it just can't handle it. Despite that, people will try to tell you that it's a matter of price point and if you want such images you should shoot film, RED or Alexa. But it is not. The GH2 costs much less and can give you much better results and so can the Canon 5D for example. It's a design flaw. If you can live with it good for you. If you can't you need to look elsewhere.
The closest thing and the best result I have seen around here towards that look is this:
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It's again from hscully. But I would love to see that frame moving to see if that highlight would take an uncontrollable life of it's own and look all nasty once it's in movement. So I can't judge if it was fully successful. The image is also very desaturated which helps disguising the problem.
But in my experience any highlight will turn nasty specially if the actor is moving his face around much. So you have to pretty much kill any highlights.
Yes!
I have the exact same problems. This is it.
But not only this. I also get noise if somebody is wearing black clothing for example, even outside during the day. The other bad thing is the washed out images. I was getting washed out images before when I was using the flat scene files. But I have since switched to Barry's and I still get washed out images. Although less it is still washed out. Don't know why since I have master pedestal at -5 and color saturation at 0. But it looks washed out unless I heavily correct curves in post.
He's talking about extreme highlights, and how film (or whatever they were shot on, obviously Godfather is film) handles them in those screen shots from other movies and how it is difficult to guard against extreme highlight problems.
Thanks for saying nice stuff about those screen grabs.
I agree that there's little or no headroom for highlight roll-off on the AF100. I got a better result out of my GH1 when it came to how highlights were treated and it does limit what you can do but there's also good footage to be squeezed out of it.
If Panasonic would do something on the next, if any, AF-series camcorder they should put in a whole new image process to steer away from clipping, skew and the loss of detail. But as long as you are stuck with the AF100 you better never ever overexpose something that should look good.
The highlights thing can be a problem. I shoot in controlled light so probably less so for me than a doc or eng shooter but I've had stuff blow out beyond repair so I've seen it and it's a problem but is it all that different with other cameras in this price range?
About cameras that compare in price, does the 7D, 5D, GH2 (I have one), FS100 do better than the AF100 in this regard?
I just thought it was something we all had to deal with. I saw the Zacuto shootout stuff (not the last one, the one before) and all the those "affordable" cameras had a hard time with the clipped highlights. What magical qualities do other cameras have to recover over exposed highlights? What am I missing? If you're over exposed you're over exposed... Dr. it hurts when I do that, don't do that!
Yes I do have the F3 today. Just like the AF100 it clips and skews but this is with normal REC709 gamma curves. The difference is the skew leans more towards blue/green on the F3. Move to the Hypergamma and it hardly ever clips or skew and when you engage S-log there is so much headroom you can say it never clips or gets ugly. It looks just like shot with an Alexa in most aspects.
So with the F3 I have the choice of shooting with gamma that hardly ever clips or I can shoot in REC709 and it will clip and skew about as much as the AF100. Would love to see a couple of these Hypergamma curves on the AF100 and that would have been a great 100A update.
I see, Adamsenoj, so in your experience the 5D and GH2 are better in this regard. Thanks. I have not worked extensively with my GH2. I'll try to spend some time with it when I can.
Always under expose. You make skin too bright, it will start to look pastel and digital like. Then boost slightly in post if you have to. Never over expose.
Here is an example, but when originally graded, there was wayyyyyyy too much magenta. Need to boost the greens ever so slightly to make this look just right:![]()
did a subtle correction:
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Yes, they produce much better results indeed in my experience. There's just something about the 5D that makes people love the image so much, reason it's still very requested even though there are supposedly better cameras technically. I think one of the things that make people like it so much is how well it handles the highlights. I think this is responsible for 90% of the reason people say it looks so filmic even though it's low rez and full of artifacts. I'm not a particular fan of the images as a whole but it does handle highlights way better than the AF100 and so does the 7D. And the GH2, what can you say. The little thing is truly amazing. Technically it should not be so, but it just does something right. Yes, the sharpness is supposedly not real but aliasing, but yet post-sharpened AF100 footage still can't touch it. It handles the highlights way better and the image just has a pop and texture that few cameras can match in the under $10k category. It's not just contrasty.I see, Adamsenoj, so in your experience the 5D and GH2 are better in this regard. Thanks. I have not worked extensively with my GH2. I'll try to spend some time with it when I can.
The GH2 with the hack has some incredible information in the highlights that unfortunately the AF100 does not do. And trust me, I've tried very hard.
GH2 before and after:
RAW:
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Graded:
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Papa, it looks good. But it does have that flat-ish look I was talking about. But I know this is not your fault. It's pretty much what you get with the AF100. I just think there's something wrong with the fact that this is good advice when shooting with the camera: "Always under expose." What we should be saying is always expose right. That the right advice to get ok images from the camera is to underexpose should already point out that there's a clear problem. Again, nothing about what you said, your advice is of course correct. I just don't understand the people who try to pretend there's no problem. Of course, you're not one of them. Hope I'm making sense here. By the way, the series is pretty funny.