JasonFox
Internet Sensation
Yeah, I've never seen it before. Maybe harassing Gerhard about it would shed some light on it. mail -at- geardear.com.
Cool-Light's Blue Line body with "HMI" guts
- Thread starter USLatin
- Start date
Yeah, I've never seen it before. Maybe harassing Gerhard about it would shed some light on it. mail -at- geardear.com.
siniarch
Veteran
Not sure if that foam is what you are looking for richard.
I have a Geardear matte box. and I can't see it having the durability that you want if you build cases with that material. but I may be wrong. why not order a filter holder from gehard. or a sample piece. should be cheap.
I have a Geardear matte box. and I can't see it having the durability that you want if you build cases with that material. but I may be wrong. why not order a filter holder from gehard. or a sample piece. should be cheap.
JasonFox
Internet Sensation
I thought Richard was talking about the exterior bits for the portable flos. I agree that I wouldn't use the stuff for a case.
Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
The material I am looking for is a rock hard, but hollow (corrugated) plastic that is harder than your normal corrugated vinyl plastic. You can't puncture this stuff. It's used in certain kinds of attache and catalog cases I've seen over here at some suitcase manufacturers. The look is somewhat like a plastic with subtle horizontal lines in it. For the maximum strength, cases made with this stuff have an aluminum frame around the edges and aluminum corner pieces. All sorts of colors available in this plastic but silver and black are the most common. I would probably choose a black plastic with black aluminum frame for maximum classic looks. Lots of other options available too and of course a handle would be a must.
Barndoors would probably best be made in the same plastic with aluminum extrusions around the edges for protection and we could either use the "soft" pipe for controlling angle (like kino) or standard barndoor mounting hinges which are "sticky" to retain angle. I kind of favor putting mirrors on the barndoors as most of our users like the intensifier type thing. You can always take the mirroring off if you don't like it.
Barndoors would probably best be made in the same plastic with aluminum extrusions around the edges for protection and we could either use the "soft" pipe for controlling angle (like kino) or standard barndoor mounting hinges which are "sticky" to retain angle. I kind of favor putting mirrors on the barndoors as most of our users like the intensifier type thing. You can always take the mirroring off if you don't like it.
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Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
Yes, I am talking about the shell of the outside of the case of the chassis of the light itself. If I implement the suitcase Idea, the chassis will be also the carrying case. If I get the kino clone shown in previous pictures, the case will be another carrying case because the clone can't be my suitcase idea, it just wouldn't work.
So are you saying that this foam your talking about it is hard and can take punishment really well?
Terry_Lasater
All about the Caption
Yes, that's the main reason why LTM's Pepper fresnels are so HOT to the touch.
Hi Richard - I'm late to the discussion, but I can tell you I will definitely be a customer of your HMI fixtures. I've been vacillating back and forth on purchasing a set of Joker Bugs for the last four years. Every time I entertain the thought, I wind up stepping back because of the price. That said, I think K5600 makes some of the best HMI lights and accessories around. Certainly not a bad company to pick to emulate - (not saying you're doing such).
Congratulations and thank you!
Terry
JasonFox
Internet Sensation
I think it could work as the light casing, but probably not as an actual traveling case. But it's probably worth looking into.
Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
Hi Terry,
I was raised in OKC, where are you living?
Anyway, yes no paint = better heat dissipation too. An idea I confirmed while playing with these blueline prototypes. So no paint in the middle is a must. On the 575w SportLight Par, right now its silver powder coated but I'm considering silver anodized finish like the blue lines middle part too. Again, helping with the heat dissipation.
I think our SportLight may be a bit bigger than the Joker type models but still portable though. Its 17" long with an 8" lens and I love the focusing mechanism on the back. Between the dimmer on the ballast and the focusing mechanism you can easily dial back the intensity of the light to a quarter of its normal output. You simply can't dim an HMI that low normally unless it has a focusing mechanism like this. The idea is that it brings the bulb further back behind the reflector, almost to the extent that the point light of the bulb is behind the reflector so the amount of light output is drastically reduced the further it goes back and increased as you bring it back to its ultimate position in front of the reflector.
While I too admire K5600 products, I actually think some features here are a real improvement like that focusing mechanism (you can see the small dial in the middle) that not too many pars that I know about have. Of course, putting the glass protection beaker on it later (for lantern use) would definitely be a feature already available in other models and not an original idea.
Another thing that separates us from competition is that we don't plan to get you with a bunch of accessories that aren't included. We'll have a long lamp cord (30 feet or so) so you can place the ballast in another room (those fans!). The carrying case, three lenses, the dimmable and hot restrike electronic ballast, the barn doors, one hot restrike bulb. Usually you have to pay as much for just the fixture as we're charging for the whole thing then they charge ridiculous amounts for these other accessories. Of course, we may have future accessories that we haven't foreseen here yet, but that is to be understood. You'll at least have everything you need to get started with our base price.
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Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
I'll see what I can find. I really like the ABS corrugated though. This is what the plastic looks like in silver. You can see it has a "lined" looking surface.
Here's a black one too:
The material seems to be used in cosmetic cases a lot.
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Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
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Yes! Imagine a lightweight case made out of that stuff. Fluorescent fixture in the thin half and the other removable half with the foam lined bulb container and maybe even room for a stand and the lolipop, although the stand might be pushing it.
On Voltage. One goal we always have is to make all units Universal Voltage wherever we can. Our current flo models are and it means it's easier for us too so we don't have to maintain 2 inventories of products -- 1 for USA and another for rest of the world. Of course the metal halide and flo bulbs will work anywhere anyway as they depend upon the ballast for their power. The halogen bulbs for the tungsten fresnels however are a different matter entirely and I'm not very keen about that at all seeing as how they are voltage dependant. We'll probably only have 110v models of those bulbs at least for now--its just too much of a hassle to maintain the 220v also.
Yes! Imagine a lightweight case made out of that stuff. Fluorescent fixture in the thin half and the other removable half with the foam lined bulb container and maybe even room for a stand and the lolipop, although the stand might be pushing it.
On Voltage. One goal we always have is to make all units Universal Voltage wherever we can. Our current flo models are and it means it's easier for us too so we don't have to maintain 2 inventories of products -- 1 for USA and another for rest of the world. Of course the metal halide and flo bulbs will work anywhere anyway as they depend upon the ballast for their power. The halogen bulbs for the tungsten fresnels however are a different matter entirely and I'm not very keen about that at all seeing as how they are voltage dependant. We'll probably only have 110v models of those bulbs at least for now--its just too much of a hassle to maintain the 220v also.
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Spartacus
Veteran
I was suspecting this, arrrg...
Well, I´m mostly interested in HMIs and portable Flos (hey, PORTAFLO!) so I´ll hope you can make the ballasts UV...
But hey, the European market is big, so a seperate 220-230V line will pay off...
And is it really that much of a problem?
Eg the Lowel Totas only use a different bulp and cord, the fixture itself is the same.
You´ll take standard bulps for the tungsten fixtures, don´t you?
Well, I´m mostly interested in HMIs and portable Flos (hey, PORTAFLO!) so I´ll hope you can make the ballasts UV...
But hey, the European market is big, so a seperate 220-230V line will pay off...
And is it really that much of a problem?
Eg the Lowel Totas only use a different bulp and cord, the fixture itself is the same.
You´ll take standard bulps for the tungsten fixtures, don´t you?
Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
All tungsten fixtures are pretty much a socket and a wire with a housing around it. The bulb is the active component and completely dependent on voltage. I'll consider carrying some 220v bulbs if there is a lot of demand for the tungsten fresnels from European customers and elsewhere in the world too. Bulbs will be the standard models you normally find for 150, 300, 650 and 1000w. Having the bulbs in both voltages just means 8 models instead of 4 to carry. I'm assuming everyone wants a standard power cord on these tungsten fresnels and not some other kind of weird plug like the one that comes on them standard.
U.V. Ballasts? No problem. That one is covered. We may even get 15 to 20 foot power cords for all the models this time too. ;-)
Anyway, yes no paint = better heat dissipation too. An idea I confirmed while playing with these blueline prototypes. So no paint in the middle is a must. On the 575w SportLight Par, right now its silver powder coated but I'm considering silver anodized finish like the blue lines middle part too. Again, helping with the heat dissipation.
Richard,
I wouldn't reccommend anything too shiny. You don't want stray light reflecting around a set.
Which of the lights HMI or flo's do you think will be available first?
Richard,
I wouldn't reccommend anything too shiny. You don't want stray light reflecting around a set.
Which of the lights HMI or flo's do you think will be available first?
Spartacus
Veteran
Well,
what about making the cords for the fixtures "plugable" on both ends, again just like Lowel lights.
So only one fixture, but two power cords for the different power systems...
(800w is also common here btw)
Good to here you got the UV ballasts down!
Terry_Lasater
All about the Caption
Hi Richard - I live in Edmond and was raised (mostly) in Norman.
btw, I just gotta say that not only am I impressed with your vision and commitment to quality in your endeavors, but you strike me as a very open, honest and sincere person. The attention to detail you show in answering our questions is enough to make me a customer of yours. :thumbsup:
Cool Lights
DVXuser Sponsor
Yeah, our current flo products are pluggable on both ends with the IEC adapters like those used in PC power supplies. Seemed logical to me that way anywhere someone could easily come up with a local power plug to replace it with. We'll see if we can do it on the tungsten fresnels. Seems like a good idea in addition to the handles--another differentiator. Probably not too hard to do either.