Comprehensive ISO testing

Barry_Green

Moderator
There's lots of stuff floating around about "native" ISOs, and whether you should only use certain ISOs and avoid others, skipping the ones inbetween, etc. I decided to get to the bottom of it.

Here's every ISO the AF100 has. Nothing changed between shots except the ISO itself; I used the iris and ND filters to compensate to make the exposure the same. Judge for yourself which ISOs you want to use and which you want to avoid.


Note that I didn't shrink anything down -- these are pixel-for-pixel extractions of what I shot. It seemed quite wasteful to shoot the chart full-screen; any noise that's gonna show up would show up on the bars at the size I shot them (each bar is about 28 x 66 pixels, so plenty of space for noise to show).

In this video I shot every ISO that the AF100 has, of the same subject (a DSC Labs ChromaDuMonde Billups VF/X28 test chart). The idea here was that the chart shows all the tonality ranges, so noise in any particular luminance range should be clearly visible. And the chart has 28 different color patches, so any indications of chroma noise in particular colors should show up. And, it has four skin tone patches (the colors just above/below the corners) representing a variety of human skintones.

In the first section of the video I shot every ISO of the chart, using a Zeiss Compact Prime 18mm lens, and all these shots are at 1:1 resolution. I framed up the shot very wide-angle, so that I could fit all of these onto one 1920x1080 frame with no scaling or stretching or downconverting. Download the original 1920x1080 file if you want to pixel-peep, as these are 1:1 files, not scaled.

In the second portion of the video I digitally zoomed the recorded footage by blowing it up to 250% horizontal size and 200% vertical size. This should aggravate and magnify any noise, which would show the effect that a higher ISO may have on the perceived noisiness of any particular luminance level or color. Note: if you see noise in the second half of the video, remember it's exaggerated! This is 5x larger than pixel-to-pixel, specifically to make the noise jump out. In the actual footage it would be much milder. Look at the first portion (with all 13 charts) for what the noise would really look like.

Settings for this video were reasonable settings for minimizing noise in an AF100's picture. They were not extreme, but were tailored to reducing the visibility of noise.

Detail and V-detail: -5
Coring: +2
Master Ped: -2
Gamma: HD NORM
Matrix: Norm2
Skin DTL: OFF

No noise reduction software or grading or any post-processing whatever was done to the footage, other than as mentioned -- it's been cropped and moved to different areas of the screen, but at a pixel-to-pixel accurate level, and then in the second part it was expanded/digitally zoomed in to exaggerate the appearance of noise, solely for the purpose of comparing one to another.

The ISO was changed for each shot, and the iris (and/or ND filter) were changed to compensate. I aimed for the white chip in the upper left to just barely, barely, barely register with 105 zebras.

I also repeated the test, using the "normal" F1 settings (all zeroes, HD NORM gamma, NORM1 matrix, etc). That file is available for download on MediaFire. As expected, it makes any noise more visible, as we already know. Not that it's unreasonable; it looks really clean at 200 ISO and noisiest at 3200, pretty much exactly what you'd expect..

For those who want to peep the pixels directly, here are the high-quality rendered MPEG4 files:

Low-Noise settings

Factory-stock settings
 
You rock Barry! I hope everyone appreciates how much work you've put into the AF100! Your really helping us all out a lot.
 
Did you draw any conclussions from your test Barry?

BTW: nice baseline test. Thanx for doing it and posting it.
 
Great test, Barry. Thanks!

I looks very similar to what I saw in my own testing. Up to ISO2000 looks really, really nice, while above that is, to me, usable with some reservations.
 
Thank you very much Barry. Always a treat to see a real pro produce a thorough test... and selflessly provide it to everyone.
 
My conclusions were that in the "low noise" settings, you really just don't have to worry about it at all, and like Stephen said, anything up to 2000 ISO is totally and completely usable, and the other ISOs compare very well to my other cameras with gain on. In fact, I keep meaning to do that -- put the HMC40 on 24dB of gain and compare it to the AF100 at 3200 ISO, and I'm pretty sure that the AF100 will blow away the HMC40 in that test. Frankly, I was surprised at just how clean and usable the 3200 is on the "low noise" settings.

In the "standard" settings, it looks to me like a generally linear increase in noisiness. I don't see anything to "avoid" or any reason to think that there's certain "native" ISO's, it just appears to me that the more you add gain, the grainier it gets, just like all the other Panasonic video cameras I've ever used. I think the notion of "only use 320, 640, 1250" etc. is only relevant to certain DSLRs and doesn't appear to have any relevancy here.

But, I wanted to see what you folks thought as well, or if you're seeing anything in it that I'm not.

I was, frankly, shocked at how relatively uniform and linear the ISO was, especially in the "low noise" settings version. I've given some ex-DSLR users a bit of guff over using the ISO to control exposure, but now... heck, it seems like a perfectly legitimate technique, because there really isn't that big of a difference. I mean, I wouldn't want to go mixing 3200 ISO with 200 ISO, intercut, but ... the AF100's 200 ISO and 3200 ISO seem a lot more similar than trying to intercut 50 ISO film and 800 ISO film!

And the range from 100 IRE to black seems to be pretty reasonably comparable. Which is another surprise; in general you would expect the dynamic range to diminish as more gain is added, but it seems like the processor is able to shift things around enough that it doesn't quite turn out that way. And this is quite a range of gain, we're talking about adding four stops of sensitivity, and still getting a reasonably full exposure. Not too shabby!

The "stock" settings do show an increased linear noise and by the time it gets to 3200 it's lookin' kinda ugly. I still think it'd be totally usable if you used Neat Video on the footage, but I didn't want to go that route for this test, I just wanted to see what the bare sensitivity changes made.

If you guys are seeing anything I'm not, let me know. To my eyes, without a microscope, I'd say any and all of the ISOs from 200 to 3200 look perfectly usable and actually pretty darn good. I wouldn't be scared of using 3200 if the situation demanded it, although I'd still always want to hover around 400 or 200 whenever possible because... well, there's no free lunch and there's gotta be a downside.
 
I wanted to hear you say it first but I am pretty shocked to see side by side how well the camera does in the "low noise" setting.
 
I was, frankly, shocked at how relatively uniform and linear the ISO was, especially in the "low noise" settings version. I've given some ex-DSLR users a bit of guff over using the ISO to control exposure, but now... heck, it seems like a perfectly legitimate technique, because there really isn't that big of a difference. I mean, I wouldn't want to go mixing 3200 ISO with 200 ISO, intercut, but ... the AF100's 200 ISO and 3200 ISO seem a lot more similar than trying to intercut 50 ISO film and 800 ISO film!.

I've only recently started using ISO to control exposure. I do it if I want a certain depth of field, which means I need a certain f-stop on the lens. And I don't want to change the shutter speed because that can cause other problems and undesirable motion blur. So what you're left with is either more light or ISO. So I just punch up the ISO if more light is not available or will just take too long. I find it better to go one step higher on ISO to avoid more noise, then bring everything back down in post, if it's possible without blowing anything out. With my camera tests thusfar I haven't been disappointed at all with noise, and I've done some pretty extreme low light tests with high ISO. I'm going to love shooting my features with this camera.
 
Well, since I am one of those exDSLR users that you scolded :P I am glad you are seeing things my way :P I kid of course, but, I do know of what you speak. For instance, on my D90, changing shutter as opposed to ISO gives VERY different colors in images, but, on the AF100 I do not see this. (Nor did I see it on my 7D either really, if so, it was like a bit less saturation, but NOTHING like what the D90 did).

My feelings on the low noise settings are the same as yours. I was VERY surprised at how well the colors held out AND how little the noise increased. ISO1600 for me was TOTALLY usable, and going up from there they would be usable in a pinch. The ISO2000 looked cleaner than the ISO2000 on my 7D where I like to shoot the 7D.

And hey, thanks for doing this test, now I don't have to :P

I *really* want to see ISO at that back dial. SO SO bad. :)
 
Barry,

Thanks for the great ISO testing.

I am so in love with this camera. Last night I had a chance to play with the low light capabilities.

I shot the following with a friend using ISO 800, a Nikon 50mm 1.4, and nothing but the two candles you see for light.

I can't wait to shoot my first short with it next month.

Chris
 

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I *really* want to see ISO at that back dial. SO SO bad. :)

Same here, please add the ISO on the back dial, for additional flexibility. I'm adding this to the firmware request I've compiled over the past month.
 
Oh Barry, Barry, Barry...do you know what you have done?

You have changed "photography" for ever.

You have now got all these guys exposing their images primarily via ISO setting changes.

Next Feature Request for the Firmware will be: "Please take the IRIS function off the camera...its just not neccesary...and use that little wheel for ISO adjustment"

Oh Barry...
 
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Oh Barry, Barry, Barry...do you know what you have done?

You have changed "photography" for ever.

You have now got all these guys exposing their images primarily via ISO setting changes.

Next Feature Request for the Firmware will be: "Please take the IRIS function of the camera...its just not neccesary...and use that little wheel for ISO adjustment"

Oh Barry...

Haha, you know, I thought about that at first, but I use both IRIS and ISO settings just as much as each other when I shoot. I was wanting to switch the shutter speed and ISO setting feature on the 7D because it took an extra press to get to the ISO settings and I set that more than shutter. But, Canon never did anything with the request I submitted to them.
 
Holy sh*t! That is very impressive results. Of course we know that the real world is going to throw in additional variables, blah, blah, blah! What I have been looking for is a consistently "Useable" 1000 ISO, which, sorry folks, I have not found in the HD-DSLRs I have been using. Dang it, I may have to move up my schedule to get an AF-100. Thanks Barry.
 
In the "standard" settings, it looks to me like a generally linear increase in noisiness. I don't see anything to "avoid" or any reason to think that there's certain "native" ISO's, it just appears to me that the more you add gain, the grainier it gets, just like all the other Panasonic video cameras I've ever used. I think the notion of "only use 320, 640, 1250" etc. is only relevant to certain DSLRs and doesn't appear to have any relevancy here.
unusually others report there is native ISO.
but from my own test i too found it a linear increase in noise.
 
And the range from 100 IRE to black seems to be pretty reasonably comparable. Which is another surprise; in general you would expect the dynamic range to diminish as more gain is added, but it seems like the processor is able to shift things around enough that it doesn't quite turn out that way. And this is quite a range of gain, we're talking about adding four stops of sensitivity, and still getting a reasonably full exposure. Not too shabby!

Barry so stop me if I'm wrong but it seems like the sensor would have a huge dynamic range in order to pull this off correct? So someone like Juan that did the Andromeda/Hydra stuff several years back, could theoretically make a hardware mod reading directly from the sensor that could create RAW video with a dynamic range that would rival the RED or even film? I know that is a loaded question, and I'm sorry for putting you on the spot. In my opinion Juan was a genius, and it boggles my mind to think of where we would be today if he kept doing what he was doing. Did anyone ever find out what happened to him? Who bought him out?
 
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