GH2 Cinema Anamoprphic footage and More | Evolving
- Thread starter Kholi
- Start date
*.m2ts and *.mts on Panasonics are exactly the same h.264 video in the exact same MPEG2 transfter stream. Exactly the same avchd file just a different extension. If you simply change the extension it should work perfecly.
Cheers,
Pete
J Davis
Veteran
Sorry guys - I was answering you by editing my post. Very bad habit of mine. I'll copy and paste
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When you remove an eos EF or EF-s lens the aperture reverts to wide open, nikon is the opposite, it reverts to closed.
This is how the lenses protect the iris when they are being stored or being transported.
I think its because you're in LIVE mode or movie mode that its having the same effect as using the DOF preview.
(just checked, yes thats the reason). I'm also a still photographer so more often than not my Canons are in M, Av or Tv and when you remove a lens it stays open.
It might be an idea for you guys to be aware of where your iris is at when you are not using the camera, especially if you have switched thru a few expensive L lenses on a video shoot. Some of the might still be stopped down. They are designed to revert to their off state to help stop the blades moving.
Remember a lot of these lenses were designed before the DSLR's had movie mode
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When you remove an eos EF or EF-s lens the aperture reverts to wide open, nikon is the opposite, it reverts to closed.
This is how the lenses protect the iris when they are being stored or being transported.
I think its because you're in LIVE mode or movie mode that its having the same effect as using the DOF preview.
(just checked, yes thats the reason). I'm also a still photographer so more often than not my Canons are in M, Av or Tv and when you remove a lens it stays open.
It might be an idea for you guys to be aware of where your iris is at when you are not using the camera, especially if you have switched thru a few expensive L lenses on a video shoot. Some of the might still be stopped down. They are designed to revert to their off state to help stop the blades moving.
Remember a lot of these lenses were designed before the DSLR's had movie mode
J Davis
Veteran
It shouldn't. Try turning off Live view and Movie. Treat it like your about to take a still - verify by looking through the 5D optical viewfinder. Switch the aperture to f22 then detach the lens while the camera is still on. And hold the lens up to the light. It should be wide open.
Kippon. None. I'm prejudiced though - the whole idea of an iris before the rear element just sounds like a recipe for aberration. I physically shudder ! There's plenty of bad review about it floating around the internet though.
When I'm shooting narrative video though I often want my DOF as shallow as it can be while still keeping my actor whole-y in focus and give him a little wiggle room to move and stay in focus. Typically f4 - f5.6 on a MCU. This means I pretty much have my aperture determined for most of my shots and it stays the same across the lenses. This means that I find I seldom have to change the aperture. Setting the aperture with a canon body works out in this regard. Minor exposure changes can be handled by ISO.
Kippon. None. I'm prejudiced though - the whole idea of an iris before the rear element just sounds like a recipe for aberration. I physically shudder ! There's plenty of bad review about it floating around the internet though.
When I'm shooting narrative video though I often want my DOF as shallow as it can be while still keeping my actor whole-y in focus and give him a little wiggle room to move and stay in focus. Typically f4 - f5.6 on a MCU. This means I pretty much have my aperture determined for most of my shots and it stays the same across the lenses. This means that I find I seldom have to change the aperture. Setting the aperture with a canon body works out in this regard. Minor exposure changes can be handled by ISO.
1280 x 720 Screenshot from VLC, straight MTS look. Only way I know how to look at it and couldn't figure out how to export a full res still. So that's the difference in color going 5DtoRGB then my 1 Light.
For safe measure, I went back to the FulL Range and dipped the color contrast a bit more so it wasn't as milky.
And here are the "raw" looks:
Broadcast Range + 1.8 Gamma
Full Range + 1.8 Gamma
There you go.
Nope, the lens was still f/22. It went wide open when I attached it back to the body (a 60D), then when I hit the "Movie" button, it shut back down to f/22.
EDIT: Okay, so it was set to Live View and movie mode, but that's just how my camera is set. Still goes that you don't need the DOF preview button step.
J Davis
Veteran
If all you shoot on your canon is video then you are correct. Since I picked up the gh2 my current canons are now just for stills.
M. Gilden
Canon DSLR Moderator
The DOF preview button is much less wear on the camera, and I would strongly recommend that method instead of detaching a lens in live view mode.
The mirror on real DSLR cameras not only allow the optical viewfinder to work (in traditional SLR style shooting), but also protects the sensor. When you hit Live View, you are forcing the mirror to stay up out of the way. Notice that when you remove the lens, the camera kind of spazzes and the mirror suddenly comes back down FAST. That means every time you do this to set the aperture, you are temporarily exposing the sensor and using up 2 extra shutter actuations.
Now, this isn't SO terrible (mirrorless cameras have the sensor exposed everytime you swap lenses, and the actuations are about the wear and tear of 2 extra pictures taken), but it IS completely unnecessary.
By rolling the dial over to M or Aperture priority, and leaving the Live View off, the camera never moves the mirror (unless you take a picture). All you have to do is hit the DOF button to temporarily stop down the lens, and remove it. Which can be done in one swift motion since the button and release are right next to each other. Its quick, painless, and little-to-no wear on the camera body.
Using live view is just unnecessary (and possibly careless), IMO.
GH2 | QV9b | Standard -2-2-2-2 | Zeiss Ultra Prime 50mm @ 4~5.6 | ISO 160
720/60 | QV9b | Standard -2-2-2-2 | Zeiss Ultra Prime 50mm @ 2.8~4 | ISO 160 (I think)
Some random stills from work. Didn't light this one.
Banding occurs too much at this ISO
These lenses are too sharp for this camera, first time I've seen aliasing pop up (not as obvious as canons but there)
More coming anyway. xD
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Kholi, are those stills taken from the video or actual stills taken with the GH2? If those are stills from video then you are definitely doing something right. Those look fantastic! Great job. Also just curious why you were shooting 720p @ 60 for this type of scene. Does the 1080p HBR mode do any better?