Canon 5D MK2 + DSLR Redrock and Monitor Mount pictures

K

KEslinger

New member
Hey All, i was interested in seeing some of your rig setups.
Please post your pictures and, some of the pros and cons of your setup and what you might be adding or changing.

Thanks!
Kevin
 
I had an e-mail enquiry of the same nature this was my reply..

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-Will the side torque generated from the follow focus damage the lens, or worse still the camera?

This is dependant on user intelligence and lens choice

A dumb user can over tighten the strap or select an over ambitious lens

The system was designed using AF nikkor primes 50 and 28, they are smooth focusing and very short (with little leverage from the camera therefore)

for those I would say no problem at all

The 24-105 canon IS the focus wheel is far further from the camera - no problems yet - the light focus ring needs little force

Testing my 135F2 nikkor prime from the 1980s whose focus barrell is actually buckled the focus action is so stiff that I cant use the lens for stills I feel that the torque may not be good for the camera

I have in the pipline a support that will be designed for the 24-105 canon

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I would add that using the 'prime driver' design being toothed toothed chain the tightness required to turn even an 'unturnable' lens is quite low

Also as a DSLR has no tripod locator pin if you do it up too tight it just undoes the camera from the rig

It is my intention to deliver two strap types - prime driver an regular

I note http://www.cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=4671 this design also could have the same critisism and even geared FF or even focusing by hand exerts torqe

Also there are many things that may not be good for a camera lens connection - steadicam running, car mount G forces, carrying a camera with a 400 2.8 attachaced by the camera

Many of these activities are also ones that create interesting and dynamic shots

Also im going to build (prototype) a double wheel version wher the forces will be equalised - my main reason for this is that I think smoother shots may be possible

S


S
 
My 100-300 nikkor is a nightmare - gentle is the only way

I find my FF or even the $1 version creates some isolation

IMO lenses of the nature of the nikon 80-200 with a centred pod mount are the way to go for tele work, the internal zoom and focus mean that mounting and FF align are all less problematic - it just my personal 80-200 is FKD and my 70-200 is G hence the use of the $100 100-300 as a stopgap until a decent 80-200 drops into my lap

Id quite like a canon zoom but am keeping shy of running two lens investments, Ill wait and see the body winner first - by that I mean Decent Codec, variable framerate FF DSLR

A front support that can smoothly change diameter (for differnt lenses), slide fore aft as the barrel extends, and rotatate with the barrel- that is an engineering challenge that is cuttently beyond me (maybe)

S
 
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morgan_moore said:
I had an e-mail enquiry of the same nature this was my reply..

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Testing my 135F2 nikkor prime from the 1980s whose focus barrell is actually buckled the focus action is so stiff that I cant use the lens for stills I feel that the torque may not be good for the camera

Also as a DSLR has no tripod locator pin if you do it up too tight it just undoes the camera from the rig

Also there are many things that may not be good for a camera lens connection - steadicam running, car mount G forces, carrying a camera with a 400 2.8 attachaced by the camera



S
Click to expand...

Do you say that you can't use old prime lenses because the tight focus ring on theme?

To use the non tripod locater as a safety system sounds extremely. You shouldn’t force the camera so its loosen up like that!

There is indeed things that are less good for cameras. But I can’t see the harm of steady cam running? Until the operator actually fall to the ground.

But seriously this rig isn’t a good solution to pull focus on a DSLR in my opinion
 
There a millions of lenses each with different characteristics - some tight - some sloppy - they wobble

All can be difficult to use with any system

It is obvious that the longer a lens the more leverage that force has on the joint and the tighter the barrel the more force required

My experience is that lenses that dont work with this dont work for filming in other situations too.

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OK what is a good system.

Firstly we must define a good system for what.

The mission of this rig is to enable a lone operator to operate a DSLR with similar convience to a sony EX1 or the like.

Given that mission I dont know a better system if it existed I would have just bought it

You can..

-Support the camera and focus
-Change lenses easily
-Change the direction of your FF movement so you get consistency between canon and nikon lenses
-Change between lenses easily
-Avoid costly systems
-save weight and size
-see your own marks and the LV screen

Again there is choice of lens for the mission or job

I cant handhold above 135 really so wont be using long lenses, I like to shoot fast so use a zoom to cut lens changes, I cant FF at F1.2 so am happy with F4 making the 24-105 my perfect RunNGun Lens

If you have a different mission, time to take over your shots, are making drama, not covering a live event , have an employed focus puller and $5000 to support your camera, and want to use antique primes there may be a more appropriate solution for your needs

I just want to make simple footage quickly and cheaply that has the 5d look

I alslo want to travel light

In terms of the other solutions there is very little evidence of what actually works in terms of videos of posted results

At least I post footage, BTS footage etc - you dont see much of that from the others

I wish I could post higher bankdwidth footage because that really shows good camera operation (or not)

S
 
squig said:
I might have a solution, this guy should be able to do a custom job for the 12.7mm rods- http://www.geardear.com/longlenspics.html
Click to expand...

The support does not appear to to meet the challenges of lenses whos focus barrel covers most of the lens and need supporting while the lens spins or extends

AKAIK the 180 is not in that class haveing a narrow focus barrell

I think my rig would function with a 180 with a teethed belt attached

If is would be as smooth as a $1000 FF - who knows

S
 
Also im going to build (prototype) a double wheel version wher the forces will be equalised - my main reason for this is that I think smoother shots may be possible
Click to expand...

Hi Sam

good job!
Have you tried one for the focus and one for the zoom? (24-70 or 24-105)
 
The two controls are out of line on the lens so it wouldnt work without some more engineering

More of interest to me is to get a record button on the right handle

I have some bits on the way to me to play on that front

S
 
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