Can I get away with just a reflector for fill?

T

themagichoof

Active member
I'm doing interview lighting. I was thinking of getting a proper fill light but on second thought, I *might* be able to get away with using just a simple Impact reflector. It would be nice to be able to use a fill light along with a dimmer to control exactly how much of the fill I've got, but then again, a reflector is only $50. If I get that and it's not working out, I can just get a proper fill light and have a reflector on hand for any future situations that may arise. What do you think?
 
themagichoof said:
I'm doing interview lighting. I was thinking of getting a proper fill light but on second thought, I *might* be able to get away with using just a simple Impact reflector. It would be nice to be able to use a fill light along with a dimmer to control exactly how much of the fill I've got, but then again, a reflector is only $50. If I get that and it's not working out, I can just get a proper fill light and have a reflector on hand for any future situations that may arise. What do you think?
Click to expand...

The simple way to answer this is to meter the scene, and if you are going for a 1:1 lighting (not possible with a bounce... unless the main is directly over the camera.. with the subject facing the camera... (ok, with some flagging of the main and monkeying around... perhaps)) or 1:2 ratio. If you can get your desired ratio, it works...

The main and bounce ratio would be distance of the main to the subject, vs. the path the light takes from main to bounce to subject, and the amount of reflectivity the bounce has.
 
Roger Deakins recently discussed fill on his forum and said he generally never dedicates a fixture to fill; he prefers reflectors or other methods to "motivate" the fill and make it more realistic. I've tended to light this way since my still days, avoiding over-filling and going for something a bit more real. You may need a bigger reflector for this style depending on the set, sometimes even something like a bedsheet-sized piece of white or unbleached fabric hanging from a few c-stands.

For diffusion and fill to produced truly soft light, most times something like a softbox or popup is just too small. Using, say, a cheap background stand setup (two tall stands & collapsible crossbar) allows you to hang your fabric-store finds - either lighting through an 8x10' sheer or nylon, or bouncing. Either way you can get a very big, very soft source, for very low dollars and tons of flexibility.
 
Deakins on fill:

Deakins on fill:

Roger Deakins discusses fill:

"Fill light!I don't really understand using a light for fill. Try lighting without a 'fill' light as such. If you want something in the shadows try using a piece of poly. or a soft silver reflector.


"I really don't think of lighting in the way of using a key light, a fill light, a back light etc.etc.and taking light readings of each separately. I think there is a danger in that becoming 'lighting by numbers'. That is not to say I don't use what might be termed fill light but I try do it by taking the main light source and molding it to the subject or by taking a secondary motivated light source rather than using a fill light for it's own sake.


"A practical light source - such as the one in Moss' hotel room - might not 'wrap' around a face enough so I extend the 'feel' of that light with some additional bounce light as though it were from the same source... bouncing back the main light source rather than adding another unit."
 
Michael Carter said:
Roger Deakins recently discussed fill on his forum and said he generally never dedicates a fixture to fill; he prefers reflectors or other methods to "motivate" the fill and make it more realistic. I've tended to light this way since my still days, avoiding over-filling and going for something a bit more real. You may need a bigger reflector for this style depending on the set, sometimes even something like a bedsheet-sized piece of white or unbleached fabric hanging from a few c-stands.

For diffusion and fill to produced truly soft light, most times something like a softbox or popup is just too small. Using, say, a cheap background stand setup (two tall stands & collapsible crossbar) allows you to hang your fabric-store finds - either lighting through an 8x10' sheer or nylon, or bouncing. Either way you can get a very big, very soft source, for very low dollars and tons of flexibility.
Click to expand...

Home Depot has muslin painter's drop cloths for 'cheap', and have a 'warm' color. Target has 'ultra' white king sized bed sheets for cheap as well.. Home Depot also has PVC piping in 1/2, 3/4 or 1 inch sizes to make frames. With a little bit of Lego like assembly one can put together frames that do the job.

The Wife did buy some springy elastic cord based folding frames, which also work... but definitely more expensive than Home Depot PVC...
 
I use 4X4 beadboard from Home Depot. I shot a round of interviews this weekend. Used a 4X2 Kino for the key a 200 HMI for the hair/rim and the bead for fill - beautiful.
 
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