Calibrating Marshall LCD70P for 7D

PaPa

PaPa

Major Contributor
Got my monitor in the mail a couple of days ago and am having a not so great time trying to calibrate it.

for starters, i've been to http://www.lcdracks.com/monitors/v-lcd70p-hdmi.html and watched the video. Followed them step by step and noticed a few things

1) In my video "Video Configuration" tab, below my color temperature, i also have a gamma setting. Is there a standard gamma setting and Color temperature?

2) I put my screen in mono, followed their steps for brightness, and got the pluge just right, but i find it very hard to judge the contrast by trying to find an even degradation of gray, kinda subjective no?

When all was said and done, the monitor seemed to be calibrated and i shot a couple of things. What i noticed is that lower exposure areas seem to fall to black very quickly on the monitor and the blacks seem overly crushed even on my custom (super-flateseque) setting from my camera.

Sitting sideways/perpendicular to a large window, part of the front of my hair where less light was hitting went straight to black with no detail. This seems far from accurate.

Also, is it normal that the power cable seems to connect upside down? As in the wiring comes from above and then when connected falls sideways putting stress on the connection and the wire?

All help is appreciated!

-J
 
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PaPa said:
When all was said and done, the monitor seemed to be calibrated and i shot a couple of things. What i noticed is that lower exposure areas seem to fall to black very quickly on the monitor and the blacks seem overly crushed even on my custom (super-flateseque) setting from my camera.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's pretty much what happens on my Manhattan LCD too. Took me a long time to realize that these monitors simply can't display the full dynamic range of the image because their contrast ratio is extremely limited. If you calibrate for the mids using the bars, the blacks will get crush to hell and you can't see anything. There's no point trying to get an accurate image, it's just not going to happen. The best you can do is calibrate for the mid then use False Color to tell you how bright it is.
 
Thanks for the response Huy

What woul you recommend then? How dark should i push my brightness before the pluge bars go to black? I tried doing the same on my computer lcd and once again, everything looks very dark ( i understand i have become accustomed to it ) however dark is one thing, very crushed blacks are another totally.

Doing the calibration through my computer crt monitor is great, stll have nice darks and so on...

And what are your two cents on Gamma settings?
 
Yea, your CRT should be able to represent the full range of the image. My computer LCD is the same thing, blacks aren't true blacks but if I recalibrate then everything gets too dark. You just have to live with it.

What I would do is ignore the bars entirely. It's made with the assumption that you're working with a monitor that's capable of displaying all the range of brightness and this is not the case. The best you can do is getting to a point where you can guess visually what the brightness "should" be based on doing camera tests.

Fortunately with the Marshall you have the False Color option. Use it. It's the next best thing to a waveform.
 
In my experience with the cheaper LCD onboard monitors, it's best to just try and get close by eye. And yeah, calibration to bars generally ends up looking "off" from what you see when looking at an actual picture on the screen. Forget the bars and try to get chroma, luma, and gamma as close as you can by eye.

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So would it be best to disable the gamma correction, bring the pluge down a smudge so that it looks decent by eye? And same for my computer lcd? It would just be nice to have a slight reference of what an image "should" look like and try to match it with the lcd computer screen and marshall monitor.

i also never know what to do about gamma for my computer monitor, wish there was some type of reference point instead of just adjusting it to how you like.

Maybe the best option would be to try and calibrate my TV, load an image there, and try to match it with both LCD's? Sounds like a viable option to me.
 
What you could do is point your camera at a color chart and gray scale and try and match up the Marshall to what you see on the camera LCD.

The camera LCD should be pretty accurate.

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