Burn in process: Experiment for validity

plasmasmp said:
Lol.

Today my vids get posted all over the forum. ( the reason for the color difference is a very tiny amount of light leakage)

Here's the thing. I have FPN just as bad as any camera. I am very careful to control it with a few things.

1. Never let any scene go below -1 above ISO 320. You will get FPN.
2. If you are shooting at night, you will need a very fast lens. f1.8 and faster
3. You absolutely need a copy of Neat Video.
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I didn't understand why you didn't test with the lens cap on.

I'll be doing this test with lens cap on when mine gets here.
 
I love my GH13. That said...I also love my T2i. If it's going to be low(er) light than my GH13 can handle, out comes the T2i. It's better in low light. Not that it's *stellar* like the 5d, but, it BEHAVES better in low light...less to worry about. What I need to do, (on this subject) is shoot GH13 (daylight) footy and cut it with T2i (low light) footy and see if it's an eye sore. (??) Anywho...thanks for the test and pointers. I have been debating burn-in for weeks. I'll continue to watch this one....
 
^LOL @ get some lights

Just to reiterative, I never said that I observed an improvement in my test, I stated that I observed a difference between the two results. I am still waiting to shoot some further real stuff footage to see if I observed an actual performance difference (which I am skeptical that there will be any improvement)

On another note, more of a quick question: I had seen a setting to enable more ISO increments that the standard few that are enabled by default. Can anyone refresh my memory and where I enable that? I saw it before and now I can't find it.
 
Shinobi Productions said:
^LOL @ get some lights

Just to reiterative, I never said that I observed an improvement in my test, I stated that I observed a difference between the two results. I am still waiting to shoot some further real stuff footage to see if I observed an actual performance difference (which I am skeptical that there will be any improvement)

On another note, more of a quick question: I had seen a setting to enable more ISO increments that the standard few that are enabled by default. Can anyone refresh my memory and where I enable that? I saw it before and now I can't find it.
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"The secret it to turn the dial to S mode (shutter priority). The shutter will show '30', which is the lowest possible for smooth video output. The ISO will still be stuck at ISO 1600, but if you use the wheel to adjust the exposure compensation all the way to maximum (+ 2EV) ISO 3200 is activated (it kicks in a few moments after pressing record, boosting sensitivity to light). The exposure compensation is shown at the bottom of the LCD by a dotted line with blocks that build to the left or right. You may have to press the wheel inwards to highlight the exposure compensation meter in yellow, before being able to adjust it by turning the wheel. I have a professional or semi professional video camera."

if you understand, please explain, because it is somewhat confusing.
Thanks!
 
Pietro Impagliazzo said:
I didn't understand why you didn't test with the lens cap on.

I'll be doing this test with lens cap on when mine gets here.
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Because a lens cap doesnt tell you everything thqat is going on with color reproduction and contrast.

One foot candle of real candlelight, color balanced at the same exact Kelvin should give you a whole lot more data on anything that is happening with the sensor.

Also, by leaving on the lenscap, you are letting the AVC codec go down to its lowest possible rate witch may cover over artifacts that would be seen if the codec was pushing 30mb instead.
 
On another note, more of a quick question: I had seen a setting to enable more ISO increments that the standard few that are enabled by default. Can anyone refresh my memory and where I enable that? I saw it before and now I can't find it.
user_online.gif


Turn on and set to "M". Into the menu and go to "REC" which is the red camera icon at the top. Go to page 4 and you'll find "ISO INCREMENTS". Set to 1/3 EV. Close the menu and go back to movie mode and you now have intermediate ISO sets.
 
plasmasmp said:
Because a lens cap doesnt tell you everything thqat is going on with color reproduction and contrast.

One foot candle of real candlelight, color balanced at the same exact Kelvin should give you a whole lot more data on anything that is happening with the sensor.

Also, by leaving on the lenscap, you are letting the AVC codec go down to its lowest possible rate witch may cover over artifacts that would be seen if the codec was pushing 30mb instead.
Click to expand...

:dankk2:
 
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