Build a computer or buy a HP workstation

[Jester2138]

What makes it cost more is the need to buy a full copy of Windows to install on it.

What makes you think I wasn't factoring the cost of Windows into my original statements?

Here's a Dell (who has very cheap prices) build for $900. It's the basic XPS 8500 with i7 3.4GHz quad-core, 8GB RAM, and an AMD GPU. http://configure.us.dell.com/dellst...&vw=icon&leadtime=5/22/2012&showleadtime=True

Here's my build of a nearly identically-specced computer for $935. Also keep in mind that these are retail prices for all the components. You could easily significantly lower the total cost by using combo-discounts and the like. I avoided them to show how close the prices are even without them. I'm also not counting the many mail-in discounts available on these parts. So the price could be a LOT lower than $935.

Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157296
CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116502
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127606
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341049
Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042
HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136697
CD/DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
Win7 64bit: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

The non-CPU and GPU parts are going to be far more reliable and high-quality than the stuff Dell will give you. You're not going to have to deal with Dell as a company or the pre-loaded bloatware. If you want to upgrade a part, it'll be super easy and more straightforward. If a part fails, you can easily replace it without worrying about whether it will mess up your specific Dell parts. You'll also have the satisfaction (and know-how) of building and maintaining your own computer on your own.

So you've got all that added value, plus the option of lowering the total price even further by using the many, many discounts offered.

 

[unadog]

I don't know if you saw my earlier post, but the net cost on that Dell with a 3.7 Ghz Ivy Bridge CPU that retails at $350 and a 24" monitor was about $500, net of the $350 monitor. So ann additional $150 over just the retail CPU cost for the rest of the computer.

I'm not arguing - suit yourself - but for others - you could buy the Dell, upgrade the GPU & power supply, then just upgrade the RAM & HDD's as you would anyway. That is what I have always done.

Though for those that want to do a build - I know it is a lot of fun. Different strokes.

Have fun!
Michael

 

[Jester2138]

I don't know if you saw my earlier post, but the net cost on that Dell with a 3.7 Ghz Ivy Bridge CPU that retails at $350 and a 24" monitor was about $500, net of the $350 monitor. So ann additional $150 over just the retail CPU cost for the rest of the computer.

That's a massive discount that you won't find very often. Similar deals are offered occasionally on individual parts, too. I kept discounts out of my comparison because they aren't helpful in deciding which is consistently cheaper.

 

[Gary Huff]

In the good old days, you could just move the hard drive from your old PC into your homebuilt with the latest motherboard, processor, etc. But these days if you bought a PC off the shelf, the version of Windows it's loaded with is extremely hardware-specific. Which means it very likely won't work if you put that hard drive into a new machine with a different motherboard, processor, etc.

I don't exactly see the case in which you have a copy of Windows that came with your computer in the first place. If you purchase off-the-shelf, you are lucky to get anything more than a recovery partition on your primary hard drive, let alone discs. If you do happen to have such, you're either keeping the computer you originally purchased (in which case you need a new copy of the OS anyway) or you're selling (in which case you can't just keep the discs and re-use the serial number).

The only scenario in which this is plausible is if you happened to own a pre-built desktop, and the computer is completely broken, and you happened to have an actual Windows install disc that came with the computer. In that case, as long as the serial number is valid, you can re-install on your new machine. If anything, you might have to spend a few minutes on the phone with Microsoft, but most people get their issues taken care of when it comes to validating their install as long as they have a actual serial code.

 

[Jester2138]

The only scenario in which this is plausible is if you happened to own a pre-built desktop, and the computer is completely broken, and you happened to have an actual Windows install disc that came with the computer. In that case, as long as the serial number is valid, you can re-install on your new machine. If anything, you might have to spend a few minutes on the phone with Microsoft, but most people get their issues taken care of when it comes to validating their install as long as they have a actual serial code.

Yes, Windows is Windows is Windows. The issue is the licensing by Microsoft. Retail copies can be moved around ad-nauseaum as long as it's only ever on one machine at once. On the other hand, OEM copies of Windows (for instance, those that come with a pre-built) are licensed for only one computer, ever. You're not supposed to be moving those installs around. However, effectively, you can. Microsoft knows that sometimes components change in a computer and so they have an allowance for that. However, there's no way for them to tell if you simply switched a few parts or are building an entirely new computer. In these distributions of Windows, certain underlying changes in hardware, such as a new motherboard, prompt Windows to ask for new validation, which you can get for free by calling Microsoft and requesting a new code from a computer voice (they don't even ask for any kind of proof that it's still the same computer).

However, Windows 7 is always the same software no matter how it's licensed.

 

[David W. Richardson]

However, there's no way for them to tell if you simply switched a few parts or are building an entirely new computer.

I once bought a pre-built Micron computer from Best Buy. (Yes, it was a few years ago.) It came with a 20GB hard drive pre-loaded with Windows. It also came with the recovery disk to re-install the platform. When the 20GB hard drive failed, I bought a 40GB drive to replace it -- and the recovery disk refused to load. I forget what the exact error message was, but the upshot of it was that it detected a 'non-Micron' hardware platform. It would only load if I used a 20GB hard drive. Had nothing to do with licensing. Micron's version of Windows was tailored to only load on that specific hardware setup.

Since then I've had other Windows versions -- from HP, Gateway, eMachines, etc. -- that would not load on any PC other than the one they came with.

Of course, if you buy Windows off the shelf, most likely you won't have those problems. I've never bought Windows, so I have no experience with that.

 

[Egg Born Son]

A friend told me that if you want reliability, do not build your own PC because all those diff components might not work 100% together. Money is a consideration because a pro workstation like the new HP Z820 is $$$$$$$$$. I am planning to go either with Media Composer or CS 6.

A pre-built computer has ALWAYS skimped somewhere. I really tried to buy a pre-built for the first time but in the end I couldn't find one that had end to end quality. I saved over 40% building myself and have an absolute beast for my money. If you can do lego you can build a PC. Put aside half a day, read the instructions, if you get stuck then ask us for help. You will never feel afraid of a computer again after you've built one. Select your parts list, put it up here and we'll tell you whether it is good.

If you're unsure, the easiest way to match the parts is to stick with a single brand for the key parts (ASUS is a good one and makes many parts). Then you know they've been tested together. That said, I haven't experienced a parts mismatch in 20 years (and that was an IRQ conflict in the dark ages). Get Western Digital or Seagate for storage, Samsung 830 series, Intel or Crucial for SSD. Buy a case without a power supply and get a Corsair Enthusiast 750W PSU at a minimum or 850W-1000W if you plan on getting one of the more powerful GPUs or intend to overclock. Bronze or Silver certification and you'll be okay. Don't skimp on the power supply, it's important. G.Skill or Corsair RAM. Pick one brand and model of RAM, get it all in the same pack and you can't go wrong. 4x8GB (32GB) or 4x4GB (16GB). 16GB is more than enough, 32GB is future proofed, and doesn't cost a great deal more. Don't worry about C9 or C10 and other numbers, DDR3 and total GB is all that matters. C9 is nice but performance differences are unnoticeable.

Get an intel chip, no question. AMD has surrendered the high end to focus competing in the middle range, targeting gamers and overclockers. Intel i7 for video editing (about the only activity that actually utilises 4 hyperthreaded cores). Watching 8 threads, each working at close to 100% at 3.9GHz is a beautiful thing... Intel i7 2600K or 2700K for Sandy Bridge (older), i7 3770 or 3770K for Ivy Bridge or if you want to spend a little more and get hex-core than i7 3930K or 3960X (will double the cost from i7 3770 easily for not much more than 30% improvement). The i7 3820 uses the hex-core motherboard but is only 4 core and outperformed by the 3770, I don't see the point of it.

Windows 7 professional. Some software is still 32-bit. I'm told it won't run on Win 7 Home edition.

The latest Ivy Bridge technology has been priced very reasonably compared to Sandy Bridge, only a few dollars more. I recommend it. I usually build a generation behind for the cost savings but this time I built the absolute latest parts for less than $150 Australian more than the previous generation would have cost and I have been very impressed. Once I get my graphics card (Asus GTX570) it will have cost me about $1600 here in Australia all told (if I go for the GTX670 about 200 more), from what I hear the same will be around $1000 in USA. Price includes decent basic monitor.

It runs fast, cool (never been above 50C/122F even under stress test, alarms don't trip until 80C/176F - i only have two standard fans in the case, I have them set to come on at 30C, unless I'm gaming or editing I have entire sessions where the case fans never even turn on!), low power usage and reliable. When I get a GPU it may get hotter in the case but the chip could run even cooler if its not handling graphics any more. We'll see.

Even without a graphics card installed I've been seriously impressed with the Ivy Bridge on-chip graphics. Don't get me wrong, you will need a separate GPU but I haven't felt the need to rush into it since I'm not rendering clips longer than 15 minutes atm, typically less than 5 minutes. I'm playing 2011 games on this thing on medium or better settings! This is unheard of in the past! No onboard GPU has ever been worth the price of admission but the on-chip (GPU is in the die now) Intel HD4000 seems to outperform the GTX430 when matched with my motherboard's Ivy Bridge graphics acceleration feature (supposedly 40% performance boost).

Consider building your own. It's worth it. But if you're really unsure then go with HP or Dell, someone who provides support and warranty.