GH3 Best Steady Cam for GH3?

Having used cheaper options like the one you have linked, my advice would be to invest in something far better like the Glidecam range.

Buy cheap, buy twice.
 
Having used cheaper options like the one you have linked, my advice would be to invest in something far better like the Glidecam range.

Buy cheap, buy twice.

Generally, I tend to agree. But my avoidance of the HD 2000 or HD 1000 isn't the price. It's the apparent steep learning curve for its' use. The one I posted appears to be more user-friendly.

Does anyone have the Glidecam who can tell me how hard/easy it is to use with the GH3?
 
Generally, I tend to agree. But my avoidance of the HD 2000 or HD 1000 isn't the price. It's the apparent steep learning curve for its' use. The one I posted appears to be more user-friendly.

Does anyone have the Glidecam who can tell me how hard/easy it is to use with the GH3?

You will never be able to balance that p.o.s. you linked too. As the lowest buy the Black Bird, then the Glidecams or even better the actual steadi cam.

Finally any stabilizer you buy will take time to learn and a lot of time to Master....
A lot of time.
 
Thanks JFR. I guess I'll get the Glidecam and start practicing :) If anyone else is interested: Merlin has a $200 discount at B&H through the end of the month.
 
I tried the flycam nano for the gh2 and threw it away for the diy $14 steady cam. TOO hard to balance, but the glidecams would be easier. Not sure about what you mentioned but I would just watch lots of youtube reviews on the stabilizers you are looking at and see which usually come out the best.
 
I'll throw a recommendation in for the Xcam Mini. They come up on eBay every now and again, made and sold from China. Mine got to me in 2 days (insane!). Here's a clip I made a few days after getting it: https://vimeo.com/67613363.

Watched a few more videos of this unit online. It looks really good.
For a basic system - the portability and the option to simply set it down - this looks pretty darn good.
I'm liking the prices too.
 
Ive tried just about all the stabilizers that have been around for a while, I really really like the Wondland Ares, I have had it several years, and it's still in mint condition, built like a tank, and easy to set up. one of the best features, is the spring in the handle, it levels off beautifully while sprinting if need be. and it's cheap.. Blackbird is great to, but it's bulky with that balance mech.
 
^I cannot for the life of me seem to get decent balance with the Wondlan Ares. I have a Gh2 and I've tried the 14mm pancake (wayy too light for the Ares) and then my 25mm Leica (heavier, but FOV is hard to work with). Seriously, if you have any tips or tricks to balancing the GHx cameras, PLEASE PM ME. I will love you forever.

Other than that, I agree, don't buy a cheap stabilizer, you will want to shoot yourself after an hour. The Glidecam HD 1000 is perfect for the GHx cameras because it's specifically built for super light cameras. Seriously, pay attention to the weight limits of the stabilizer you buy. The GHx series is one of the lightest cameras you can get and if you're like me the BMPCC has piqued your interest and that's even lighter. Think about what lens you're going to use and what kind of rig you do or don't have around the camera and purchase accordingly.

IMO, Glidecam HD 1000 or CMR Blackbird are the way to go. Blackbird will need a bit more weight initially but it can also take a ton more weight on the high end as well. If all you're going to rock is a naked GH3 w/lens then personally I'd go for the HD 1000 because it's the most optimal stabilizer (that doesn't suck) for lighter setups. Plus the HD 1000 is so small you can break it down and take it anywhere easily. The Blackbird is the opposite, it's huge, but that's what leads it to being a very good stabilizer.
 
You will never be able to balance that p.o.s. you linked too. As the lowest buy the Black Bird, then the Glidecams or even better the actual steadi cam.

Finally any stabilizer you buy will take time to learn and a lot of time to Master....
A lot of time.

Generally I balk at JFR's overreactions, but he's totally right here.
I bought one of those Hague MMCs (similar design to the one you link to) and it is a complete pile of ****. Even when you balance it and think you are getting good shots, you'll get it home and see it is see-sawing and panning all over the place. This general design is almost useless.
 
Ive tried just about all the stabilizers that have been around for a while, I really really like the Wondland Ares, I have had it several years, and it's still in mint condition, built like a tank, and easy to set up. one of the best features, is the spring in the handle, it levels off beautifully while sprinting if need be. and it's cheap.. Blackbird is great to, but it's bulky with that balance mech.

I have that one too (for a couple of weeks) but haven't used it yet.
Please, can you post your setup like bottom weights and position of the camera?

I've never used a stabilizer before so it would be very helpfull for me.

Thank you.
 
I have a GH2 and a few lenses. I ended up with the Flycam Nano...my thoughts:

Shortcomings aside, the Flycam Nano is a pretty good value for hobbists as long as you're fine putting locktite on bolts and have the patience to balance everything. As with all stabilizers, you need to have a grasp of the physics to be able to balance it and it will take time. The GH2 (and GH3?) are extremely light, so you will need to add weight for the Flycam up top (be it lenses/quick releases/etc).

You do need to learn how to move...no stabilizer is going to give you amazing results until you put in the time to learn.

My two setups (so far):

* Canon FD 28 - mast in shortest position, one weight per lower case, manfrotto rc2 qr on the platform. Drop is fairly quick, but fine for everything but 'running flat out' where wind becomes an issue.
* Samyang 35mm - mast shortest, three weights per case, rc2 on top. Drop is nice and slow, but of course the 35mm makes high movement harder. Shots longer than two minutes become hard without a proper vest/arm (of course).

CAM00364.jpg
 
Opteka Steadyvid Pro is an affordable option to consider

Opteka Steadyvid Pro is an affordable option to consider

If you're still looking for an inexpensive stabilizer, you consider the Opteka Steadyvid Pro (about $140 at Amazon). As with ALL the inexpensive stabilizers, there are limitations, but I find The Opteka rig works quite well. Its a knock off of the much-better-built Merlin Steadicam, but I can honestly say that, once balanced it performs nearly as well. I borrowed a friend's Merlin, and think the main advantage it has over the cheap Opteka rig is (1) much better build quality and (2) slightly faster set up. If you seriously expect to use a stabilizer a lot, then invest in something one of the better rigs.

Regardless of price, anticipate spending a fair amount of time learning how to balance and operate a stabilizer. I have seen countless threads about unrealistic expectations of stabilizers, and people who appear to give up way too quickly. Light cameras are way more difficult to stabilize, and your stabilizer (and skills) have to accomodate any changes you make to the camera's weight. It simply takes time and patience. Good luck.
 
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