Basic light kit for video

Zip lights are big, heavy, bulky, inefficient, and hot. Their effect can be achieved in numerous other ways with smaller instruments where you can use bounce or diffusion.

Fresnels are great. I'd prefer an Arrilite to a zip (Arrisoft) as it could be bounced off of foamcore or diffused with a frame or Chimera bank.
 
Thanks Terry. I am looking at a second-hand kit and for $1500, it seemed like a good deal - even with the Zip light. What do you think?

-gl
 
The only thing those zip lights are typically used for on set is as work lights. The 2k ones get occasional use for actual lighting, more often on a stage, but it's still not nearly as flexible as a redhead or blonde.

1500 seems like WAY too much for that kit used, but then again my standards are set by the really good deals I've found on ebay for lights from every manufacturer other than Arri. 650's seem to have more value than 1k's and 200's for some reason, maybe that's why it's so expensive. I figure the case is also worth at least a couple hundred, which for my purposes is a waste of money but maybe you need that case...
 
What do you recommend for a good foundation based off of tungsten? I have rented the 650s before and felt they were a flexible option. I just want something bullet proof, versatile and reasonable cost.

-gl
 
If you can hold off for a little while, I may have a good selection of Mole Richardson Tungsten lights available for sale.

I have been using daylight balanced lights more often, so will be clearing space to add more Joker HMIs.
 
Terry_Lasater said:
Zip lights are big, heavy, bulky, inefficient, and hot. Their effect can be achieved in numerous other ways with smaller instruments where you can use bounce or diffusion.

Fresnels are great. I'd prefer an Arrilite to a zip (Arrisoft) as it could be bounced off of foamcore or diffused with a frame or Chimera bank.
Click to expand...


Let's be honest, any Tungsten light is inefficient & gets hot.

I have a few zip lights which I lamp with 650w HIR lamps which are much more efficient than normal 1k FCM lamps.

Zip lights also produce a quality of light which is different than other bounced/diffused lights or Kino Flo soft lights. Not the right tool for every job, but good to have in your kit when needed.
 
My initial project for this kit will be to light this kind of project. I lit this with 3 cheap leds and I just want to get some better options for my foundation and use the leds for accents.

tooltech.jpg
 
A shot like that… I might use 4x55w Biax with egg crate to key the talent, 150w Fresnel as a kicker on him, 300w Fresnel to backlight the product, 2 x 150w Fresnel to light front of product, Dedolight for the background. Of course it's all subjective, as it really depends on the look you are after.
 
I rarely use tungsten any more - really it's for music videos mostly in my work flow.

For commercial gigs, it's usually 2 and 4 bank biax flo units. They're just so cheap now. For a key in a high-key setting, I'll shoot a 4-bank through a 4x4 (actually a 42" scrim jim). Or I'll hang diffusion over a c-stand arm - really light, meshey diffusion as they're already fairly soft.

If I need a harder rim light, I have some Alzo HID fixtures - but a 6" 750w fresnel with 1/2 CTB (or full CTB if I want it cooler, but 1/2 is barely noticeable as "warm" and you get some more lumens. A Roger Deakins' trick) works great. For lower key stuff, you often have to flag the biax stuff - still trying to come up with a soft grid adapter idea...

You can use decent LEDs for hard rim, background wash, etc. without worrying so much about their color rendering.

From there you can get into the cool lights CDM fresnel (or DIY one), used 200 HMI, chinese 575 HMI, etc.

For tungsten, I'm a huge fan of rectangular open-faced lights - Mole makes some, but the theatrical models are the s*%t. Basically work lights with real barndoors and yokes. Just crazy versatile for bounce and diffusing, and they take cheapo work light globes you can get anywhere, from wattages of 100 to 1k. So little dimming or scrimming is needed. I'd say check eBay every week for those, you can find them for $20 sometimes if you snap 'em up. They're light and really versatile for placement.

If your budget is tight, there's usually several of the altman (also branded as L&E) theatrical fresnels on eBay. Commonly the 6" 750 (can be lamped with 300, 500, 750 and many people report 1k is fine in them) and the 8" 2k (can take a 1k). These often go for $40-$50 - last week there were 5 or 6 listed. They take those bigger twist-in projector bulbs but can be DIY'd to take modern G9.5 globes.

Search eBay for "fresnel" and you'll be surprised - 3" 300's and 2" 150's are really handy to have. There's usually a lot of ancient stuff which weighs a ton, but theatrical units have held up really well for me. The Asian Arri knockoffs can be good deals, just check the wiring.

Another thing I feel is almost a must have is the $100-ish Flexipar. Takes a very efficient 575 globe, comes with 4 lenses - and you MUST buy the $10 aftermarket lens tool or brush up on your profanity. That fixture is just crazy-efficient. Great for doing the "moon light through the window" on tungsten shoots, and delivers a huge punch through diffusion, even with full CTB. It's a little monster.

Theatrical open face:

DSC_0018.jpg
 
Last edited:
So, basically, a collection of 150, 300, and 1k lights. I am not opposed to the used, Ebay approach but, I just don't have any electrical skills so, I am a little nervous about it. I basically have $1,500 to spend to get a good foundational set of lights to go with my leds. If I can get 6 smaller lights with more control I am all for that. I just don't have a good feel for how much output I need.

-gl
 
Yeah, I don't think my post was dishonest...

Sure, all tungsten could be described as inefficient. None more so than a tungsten zip. I have a 2K Arrisoft that I bought several years ago so I know what they're capable of producing. I also made mention that they are bulky and heavy - that cannot be ignored or disputed.

I might have to try some HIR lamps.

David W. Jones said:
Let's be honest, any Tungsten light is inefficient & gets hot.

I have a few zip lights which I lamp with 650w HIR lamps which are much more efficient than normal 1k FCM lamps.

Zip lights also produce a quality of light which is different than other bounced/diffused lights or Kino Flo soft lights. Not the right tool for every job, but good to have in your kit when needed.
Click to expand...
 
I have pretty much decided against the kit. I seems to make more sense to piece this together. Currently thinking 2-3 tungstens and a flo for key. I'll try my luck on Ebay for the tungsten but, would love a recommendation on the flo.

-gl
 
I hear ya. No problem.
I would *love* to own some HMIs like you have.
A set of Joker 400s would be a great start.
 
I purchased all my HMIs used, as the cost of these suckers new is sky high.

Unfortunately I need to send off my 1.2K, as I loaned it out and now it will not strike. I heard from another guy who loaned them lights as well, and found out they had generator issues on this "no budget" film and these jokers fried all the Jokers they borrowed, and of course they do not have the money to have any of our lights repaired. You'd think I would have learned by now not to loan out gear to no budget projects.
 
I always keep an eye open for stuff like that. Every now and then they pop up on ebay for a fair price, as long as you don't get into a bidding war.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top