At last - a pretty balanced and informative review

Brilliant review. Incredibly informative. Probably not for the general consumer but give me a review like that over CNet any day (understatement).

A good endorsement of it's 720p mode there too. But I am still undecided whether to shoot 720 60p or 1080 24p, an issue which is complicated by using a NTSC camera in PAL land. Arghhh!
 
Can somebody put this link into a STICKY! This is the best and most comprehensive article I've read regarding the GH1.
 
I agree - it's not just a review actually but also a very good primer on how to use GH1 in video mode. He got a few tinsy facts wrong but on the whole it is spot-on.

A couple of those facts:
- Kit lens go to 4.0 at wide end, he wrote 4.5 in one place.
- Audio is 48 KHz not 44 with AVCHD files and 16 KHz with MJPEG files.
- It's a bit odd he calls JVC (the company) in the links JCV - maybe he got the muscles from Bruessel on his mind :)

And he could have mentioned that instead of getting screw-on NDs for each lens thread size, Cokin or Hitech holders with square NDs that can be moved between the lenses is a cost-cutting option.
 
If you want a peek at what the future of both still and video cameras might look like over the next few years, drop into your camera dealer and have look at the Panasonic Lumix GH1.
He's got to be joking, right? (That's all I've read so far, I'm sure the rest is great!)>
 
Indeed a great review that I'm enjoying and learning from, but this seems a bit of an exaggeration -

In addition then to an NLE, if you have a GH1 youneed at least one additional pieces of software, NeoScene ($129).​
I'd say it's one of a number of options, and you may not need it at all depending on your editing software and your computer hardware.
​
 
You must understand this chap is hardcore, as most fine art types are. They think of nothing at spending a grand at software that only does printing (no editing, literally the software just takes the image file as-is and communicates with the printer).
 
It also has continuous rather than discrete aperture changes, which are necessary for smooth video in changing light conditions,
That's under debate in this forum - so far, nobody has come forward to say how continuous aperture changes are actually obtained.
 
Codec types in the workflow of GH 1

Codec types in the workflow of GH 1

Hi
The NeoScene is a big subject
its work with a Wavelet codec form Cineform and it have connection with the raw video writing in the article and the Red part too-
the Wavelet codec, like Redcode, are an other type of codec not the same as the DCT class of codec in the MPEG family
The AVCHD standard have a 4:2:0 color and a 8 bit presentation?
so move a video processed into AVCHD 4:2:0 can´t reshape the missing part.

My hope is that the AVC-Intra and P2 will be the base for a GH Pro camera, I think then Red have some problems at the market
But this is better to have this Codec type discuss as a new threaded subject of thinking.
GH 1 have the hardware base for adding a new class of software to it in the future that open up to a interesting future.
 
That's under debate in this forum - so far, nobody has come forward to say how continuous aperture changes are actually obtained.

Continuous aperture changes are as smooth as silk for me. Can someone set me a test so I can see for my own eyes what all the fuss is about? I have read the posts but when I am out shooting none of what is moaned about actually appears!
 
Say you want to be in shutter priority, which is likely, and you don't want auto ISO, so set that to the required value. Obviously you're in Creative Motion Picture mode. Having set shutter speed, point the camera at a dark corner of a room in daytime and set ISO for reasonable exposure - half press the shutter to check. Now without recording, turn around to the window and you will hear the iris 'chatter', perhaps quickly at first, then it slows down. Now turn back to the dark corner, record, turn to the light, and you will see the aperture changing in steps that match the 'chatter' you heard before. Now you are recording, there's no (or little) chatter noise, but the steps are still there.

I've found I can very clearly see that exposure stepping when, for instance, shooting a street scene and any camera movement changes the amount of sky in the shot - sometimes even a light colour car passing through the frame will cause a quite abrupt change in exposure. Obviously unless exposure it locked it's going to vary as required, but I would expect it to be less stepped. Auto ISO seems to help smooth things a bit.

The effect is also seen when zooming, regardless of any other setting in Creative Motion Picture mode - for instance in full manual, where what you set would in theory be locked, but it isn't. The zoom causes exposure compensation regardless.
 
Continuous aperture changes are as smooth as silk for me. Can someone set me a test so I can see for my own eyes what all the fuss is about? I have read the posts but when I am out shooting none of what is moaned about actually appears!

Try shooting at 1920 while zooming in or out with almost any kind of light. If you see no sudden changes in brightness then you've probably got the only one that doesn't do it.

Having used too many camcorders to mention, I can tell you I've never seen this very visible "stepped behavior" before.
 
Brilliant review. Incredibly informative. Probably not for the general consumer but give me a review like that over CNet any day (understatement).
Well, at least CNet does not make goofs like this: "Panasonic also does this with their latest tapeless HD camcorders, the GH20 and HF10."
 
He's got to be joking, right? (That's all I've read so far, I'm sure the rest is great!)>
Yes, just pop into your local Ritz Camera or Circuit City and help yourself to one or two from those overflowing shelves.

I guess when you're accustomed to having manufacturers' evaluation models show up at your doorstep you start to lose perspective on those niggling little availability details that the great unwashed masses have to contend with.
 
Try shooting at 1920 while zooming in or out with almost any kind of light. If you see no sudden changes in brightness then you've probably got the only one that doesn't do it.

Having used too many camcorders to mention, I can tell you I've never seen this very visible "stepped behavior" before.

This isn't a fault. That is the zoom lens moving through it's standard aperture range from F4 to F5.8.

The continuous iris operates, but while zooming the lens by design has to go through a non-consistent aperture. Nearly all zoom lenses are like this.

The continuous iris is a bonafide feature - its there - it works fine. The GH1 would be a lot worse off without it. Point the camera at a light, keep the lens at wide angle 14mm, leave it there and switch on the lights. You will see it smoothly adjust to the new brightness level.
 
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