Anamorphic Testing
- Thread starter ryancglover
- Start date
ryancglover
Well-known member
unfortunately, there is a pulldown applied to the GH1's 24p footage.. and not a super easy 'advanced' one like on the hvx.. but there are lots of options to remove it and get your 23.976 progressive frames back, look in the GH1 Workflow Section. its annoying but not too bad.
..finally got around to testing the kit lens (took a while to find a deep enough step up ring solution) i was getting vignetting until about 16 or 17mm.
here's two shots with the 14-140mm kit lens @ 18mm.
f/4.5.. edges are soft
f/8
thisisapocalypse
Well-known member
Those screencaps are awesome man. Your shot design, especially in the 2nd screengrab is...just, yeah man, I really can't wait to see a project done with these! I love, love, love that shot at 18mm of the girl w/skateboard...it has so much depth in all the right ways. I dont know if I've ever seen anything shot on video that has that look to it. You're shots are fully swaying me into shooting anamorphic for my feature this January.
Finally won an eBay auction for the Panny 16:9 lens so I will have some anamorphic testing shots coming soon! Don't have the kit lens however. Just lots of FD glass.
Finally won an eBay auction for the Panny 16:9 lens so I will have some anamorphic testing shots coming soon! Don't have the kit lens however. Just lots of FD glass.
I got a Panasonic AG-LA7200 off E-Bay and it arrived today. I found that the threads on in are very recessed (very far away from the part of the adapter closest to the lens). My step down rings do not want to grab onto the threads. I wondered how others has surpassed this? I was going to go see if the local camera shop had any cheap 72mm UV filters that would fit and could be used as an in-between bushing (removing the glass).
Any suggestions? I am trying to mount to a variety of Zeiss primes (55mm, 67mm, 82mm, mainly) and some Canon zooms (77mm). Thanks.
Any suggestions? I am trying to mount to a variety of Zeiss primes (55mm, 67mm, 82mm, mainly) and some Canon zooms (77mm). Thanks.
thisisapocalypse
Well-known member
You need a "spacer" ring - which actually turn out to be pretty hard to find - what I've done and what others have done, is to get a cheap close-up filter and remove the glass (by whatever means necessary - I had to use a hammer, but if you go that route, be CAREFUL) - you need one that is really deep, a typical UV filter won't work in most cases. I got a cheap "digital 10x close up filter" from a set on eBay and that's what I used since it has very deep threads.
Tiffen close-up filters tend to be pretty deep so that may be a good bet if you need to find something local.
Thanks for the info. Turns out I found a Step Down ring (72mm on the INSIDE and 77mm on the outside) at the local camera shop. This one had threads that were deep enough to grip (also fits my L series zooms). Then I can use regular Step Up rings to get down to other sizes for the Zeiss primes.
So far the lens looks pretty nice. I shot a number of things with the Panasonic adapter on a Canon 24-70 f2.8. The edges were a little soft and had some color fringing (most shots with with the wider focal lengths). But they were definitely acceptable for HD (not too bad even for hi-res stills). This is on a 7D. So I don't get the very outside edges you would get on a 5D. I was at f8 most of the time.
Unfortunately, I couldn't quite find any sunlight bright enough (snow here and cloudy) to get much in the flare department. I got one shot that had a tiny bit of anamorphic flare. I could tell that, had the sun been brighter it would have flared quite nicely.
Composing looking at a squished image takes a little getting used too :tongue:
So far the lens looks pretty nice. I shot a number of things with the Panasonic adapter on a Canon 24-70 f2.8. The edges were a little soft and had some color fringing (most shots with with the wider focal lengths). But they were definitely acceptable for HD (not too bad even for hi-res stills). This is on a 7D. So I don't get the very outside edges you would get on a 5D. I was at f8 most of the time.
Unfortunately, I couldn't quite find any sunlight bright enough (snow here and cloudy) to get much in the flare department. I got one shot that had a tiny bit of anamorphic flare. I could tell that, had the sun been brighter it would have flared quite nicely.
Composing looking at a squished image takes a little getting used too :tongue:
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thisisapocalypse
Well-known member
Yes indeed! I've thought about coming up with either an overlay or just some thin strips of tape so that I can draw out a rule of thirds grid on the LCD that will compensate for the squashed image - it would just be helpful as a reference.
It's a tricky adapter, no question about it, and I'd try out every lens you can on it because they all seem to act a little differently with it, some being much better than others, I'm guessing that this has something to do with the Anamorphic adapter being afocal and some lenses seem to have sweet spots that just work a little better with the additional focus plane that is added by the adapter - certain focal lengths also seem to be better about the edge softness and it doesn't seem to have much to do with the overall sharpness of the lens you're using, I really haven't figured it out. Some lenses work better at infinity with the adapter, and others do not - there seem to be ranges of focus that work better with the adapter and it seems dependent on the lens you are using, like I said, I have not figured it out and just continue to test.
My Canon 28mm FL f/3.5 lens is by all normal accounts, not a great lens (not bad, but nothing special), yet I get great results with it and the anamorphic adapter, in contrast my 55mm FL 1.2 is definitely sharper (especially stopped down) than the 28mm, yet when I was doing a test with subjects at infinity, the 28mm blew away the 55mm, it didn't have any softness on the edges at all, whereas infinity with the 55mm just didn't work so hot.
You can see two of my tests here:
http://www.vimeo.com/8563629 (Canon FL 55mm f/1.2 + adapter)
http://www.vimeo.com/8479574 (Canon FL 28mm f/3.5 lens + adapter)
Anyways, I guess my point is that since this adapter was designed for the DVX100 and its lens, you just have to try out various lenses and some work better than others for different applications, this may seem obvious, but its more than just focal length and aperture when you bring this adapter into the equation, there are focusing issues that I don't think you can find out about until you just give it a try.
Yeah, I am finding large differences between lenses. I am finding sometimes zoom lenses work very well as well. (24-70 f2.8 works pretty nicely). Your 28mm is definitely a lot sharper on the edged. I am finding filters in between (UV, etc.) can have a big effect. They generally need to be removed (makes sense).
I have been messing with a bunch of Zeiss primes, and they are looking pretty nice. The 10-22 EF-S lens (on my 7d) works down to about 18mm before you get a very obviously rectangular edge coming in. It make very nice flares, though. However, it seems to really show any dirt anywhere in the assembly (which is impossible to get rid of completely). Interesting effect, like some of the dirty lens flare effects in Star Trek. However, could be an issue in some cases.
I wonder if there might be some kind of anamorphic loupe that could be used on the back screen to preview the image correctly...
I have been messing with a bunch of Zeiss primes, and they are looking pretty nice. The 10-22 EF-S lens (on my 7d) works down to about 18mm before you get a very obviously rectangular edge coming in. It make very nice flares, though. However, it seems to really show any dirt anywhere in the assembly (which is impossible to get rid of completely). Interesting effect, like some of the dirty lens flare effects in Star Trek. However, could be an issue in some cases.
I wonder if there might be some kind of anamorphic loupe that could be used on the back screen to preview the image correctly...
thisisapocalypse
Well-known member
Absolutely right - I remove all filters from lenses - actually I found that even without the anamorphic adapter that most filters have a pretty negative effect on the video quality of the GH1 - you might not notice it if you've never taken the filter off, but focus on something, then remove the filter and you might see what I mean - this is in regards to older manual focus primes, I can't speak for the kit lens - but I found that even very good filters caused flare and c/a that were relatively minor, but nevertheless noticeable on GH1 video....I am no longer using any filters with my GH1 unless they are an ND, close up, or Polarizer (something with a purpose other than protecting the front lens element).
If you're using manual primes you'd do well to A/B your footage with and without filters (if you've got filters on there that you've never removed).
I usually keep very high quality (Zeiss or B+W) filters on most lenses. But I do take them off sometimes. The difference is pretty negligible with the good filters, though direct, into sun stuff can exhibit more flare. I generally embrace a little flare, though. So not a massive deal for me.
But the B+W filters are usually quite thick, and they, especially seem to cause some issues with the Panasonic adapter (make close focusing not as close).
I have been playing more, and so far I really like the results with the 24-70 f2.8 L zoom. (That lens is actually sharper than most primes to begin with... seriously, sharper than any of the Canon 50 mm lenses (at two stops form wide open - generally the sharpest stop), though not as sharp as the 35 f1.4, or the Zeiss 85 f1.4)
But the B+W filters are usually quite thick, and they, especially seem to cause some issues with the Panasonic adapter (make close focusing not as close).
I have been playing more, and so far I really like the results with the 24-70 f2.8 L zoom. (That lens is actually sharper than most primes to begin with... seriously, sharper than any of the Canon 50 mm lenses (at two stops form wide open - generally the sharpest stop), though not as sharp as the 35 f1.4, or the Zeiss 85 f1.4)
I ordered an LA-7200 off eBay just now as well. Does anyone have a link to either a close-up filter or a step-down ring that has the right thickness etc. for the anamorphic adapter's 72mm threads? I'm looking on eBay just trying to just thickness by pictures and such but it would be great if someone has something more concrete than that.
Something like this ought to work:
http://www.amazon.com/Kenko-72-0MM-...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1263339138&sr=8-1
The deep inner threads of the Step Up rings tend to be long enough to go in and grab the 72mm threads on the adapter.
Note that is not the exact one I have. (I got mine at the local store, and do not know the brand.) Once you have that then you could put the adapter on a lens with a 77mm thread or use step down rings to get to other sizes.
You will want to use as few rings as possible and try to keep the adapter as close as possible to the front element of the lens.
http://www.amazon.com/Kenko-72-0MM-...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1263339138&sr=8-1
The deep inner threads of the Step Up rings tend to be long enough to go in and grab the 72mm threads on the adapter.
Note that is not the exact one I have. (I got mine at the local store, and do not know the brand.) Once you have that then you could put the adapter on a lens with a 77mm thread or use step down rings to get to other sizes.
You will want to use as few rings as possible and try to keep the adapter as close as possible to the front element of the lens.
I tried several step-up/down rings but never found one with deep enough threads. I ended up ordering a 72mm close-up filter pack off eBay (+1, +2, +4, +10). The +4 and +10 are both deep enough, so I'm going to remove the glass from the +4 since I'm assuming the less extra space added on the better. Glad to finally have a working solution!
I use a Redrock Micro M2 Encore 72mm coupler which allows me to orient the lens adapter and provide deep solid grip.
Roberto Hapsad
Active member
How is everybody else viewing their rushes? It has been suggested that a Premiere preview will do it: frankly I feel like I need to see my stuff on a big screen really quickly after shooting and am presently unable to.
I am having to boot to (ugh!) Windows, then set Media Player Classic to 2.35:1 and then be very patient in-between screen freezes.
I wish I had a plain ol' analogue monitor I could re-size to suit. I've tried all my Panasonic TV's aspect ratios. I've looked at the screen through an anamorphic adapter turned sideways!
I am having to boot to (ugh!) Windows, then set Media Player Classic to 2.35:1 and then be very patient in-between screen freezes.
I wish I had a plain ol' analogue monitor I could re-size to suit. I've tried all my Panasonic TV's aspect ratios. I've looked at the screen through an anamorphic adapter turned sideways!