Anamorphic + Loreo3D + Nikon D5200

[Spektre]

Hello all. I am completely new when it comes to cameras so I hope I get most of the terms correct here.

I am an early 3D adopter. I like to take stereoscopic images and videos. My rig to date has been two point and shoot, fixed focus cameras mounted to a bracket. It's been a fun setup but has some weaknesses I cannot overcome.

The quality of the still images is not good (just 2D ability, nothing to do with the 3D setup and) and it is impossible to genlock the cameras together so motion just never comes out right.

A few months ago I started looking at upgrading and decided I wanted to go with a DSLR (as opposed to a 3D camcorder) as my trade-off between quality video and quality stills.
I purchased a Nikon D5200 and plan to buy a Loreo 3D Lens in a Cap for stereoscopic pictures and video. This will allow me to take video in perfect sync and the still quality seems excellent on this DSLR.

However the setup has a notable drawback. Since this lens splits the sensor in half to record the left and right eye images simultaneously, you only get 1/2 the normal field of view. I'd like to get that field of view back and as I understand it what is needed is an anamorphic lens.


1. Do they sell anamorphic lens that cause a 2:1 shrink?

2. What is the difference between an anamorphic lens and an anamorphic adapter?

3. The Loreo LIAC has 58mm filter thread on the front of each lens. Can an addition anamorphic lens be placed onto the front of these lens?

4. It seems to me you could either put the anamorphic lens between the camera and the 3D lens assembly, or you can place a pair of them on each of the 3D lens. Does this sound right?

5. Another option would be if there is anyway to genlock D5200's to each other and get a 2nd camera. I don't see this option available though. Any ideas?

6. Any suggestions on anamorphic lenses or adapters?


Thanks in advance.

 

[Spektre]

hello all. I am completely new when it comes to cameras so i hope i get most of the terms correct here.

I am an early 3d adopter. I like to take stereoscopic images and videos. My rig to date has been two point and shoot, fixed focus cameras mounted to a bracket. It's been a fun setup but has some weaknesses i cannot overcome.

The quality of the still images is not good (just 2d ability, nothing to do with the 3d setup and) and it is impossible to genlock the cameras together so motion just never comes out right.

A few months ago i started looking at upgrading and decided i wanted to go with a dslr (as opposed to a 3d camcorder) as my trade-off between quality video and quality stills.
I purchased a nikon d5200 and plan to buy a loreo 3d lens in a cap for stereoscopic pictures and video. This will allow me to take video in perfect sync and the still quality seems excellent on this dslr.

However the setup has a notable drawback. Since this lens splits the sensor in half to record the left and right eye images simultaneously, you only get 1/2 the normal field of view. I'd like to get that field of view back and as i understand it what is needed is an anamorphic lens.


1. Do they sell anamorphic lens that cause a 2:1 shrink?

2. What is the difference between an anamorphic lens and an anamorphic adapter?

3. The loreo liac has 58mm filter thread on the front of each lens. Can an addition anamorphic lens be placed onto the front of these lens?

4. It seems to me you could either put the anamorphic lens between the camera and the 3d lens assembly, or you can place a pair of them on each of the 3d lens. Does this sound right?

5. Another option would be if there is anyway to genlock d5200's to each other and get a 2nd camera. I don't see this option available though. Any ideas?

6. Any suggestions on anamorphic lenses or adapters?


Thanks in advance.

bump

 

[Egg Born Son]

1. Most anamorphic adapters and lenses are 2x.

2. An anamorphic lens is complete and needs nothing else. An anamorphic adapter goes on the front of the lens and is effectively a lens sized filter. For most an anamorphic lens would be preferable but they are beyond the means of most people. The majority of anamorphic lenses are 5-figure prices even second hand. So most use anamorphic adapters even though they would rather have an anamorphic lens. Luck for you it sounds like for your purpose an anamorphic adapter sounds like the better choice. Adapters are typically intended for projectors repurposed by enthusiasts for image capture. A few were intended from the outset to be both, in particular the ones intended for Bolex. Typical issues with adapters include poor close focus (mitigated by diopters), a dual focus system whereby you need to focus both lenses (so no rack focus), vignetting (dark corners, will see the inside of the lens barrel on wide lenses) and edge sharpness may be an issue on some sample. Softness below f4 is common.

3. Not familiar with the Loreo but a quick look on their site describes it as a wide lens (which is unlikely to play well with the adapter). It will likely vignette. Even on M4/3 it's a rare adapter/taking lens combo that doesn't vignette wider than 50mm. On full frame it is worse. The 58mm filter thread shouldn't be a problem but the wide qangle of the lens could be. Can't be sure without trying your combination but it likely will not work without cropping the image.

4. That's an interesting idea but I'd say no. If you move your taking lens forward you alter the flange focal distance. That should make it impossible to get any kind of focus. Maybe with a short anamorphic you will retain some macro range but this will not be an effective solution.

5. Can't help you there. What you need for dual camera is a camera with timecode. Preferably with the ability to receive it from an external source or the other camera. Even two identical cameras may not agree on how long a minute is let alone sync on a start point. Timecode lets you fix the temporal alignment.

6. While I could easily make some recommendations for a single lens 2D setup, for your intended purpose I hesitate to recommend anything because I think it is more likely to cost you $1000+ and then not work for you. It might work but it will be expensive to try unless someone local can lend you some anamorphics to experiment with. General principles would be to try and get something as short as possible, with a large rear element (both tips help with vignetting), able to close focus (most usable anamorphic adapters can focus down to 5 or 6 feet), light weight and avoid rare models if you need two. Additionally I would need an idea of your budget to make a recommendation. You are looking around $1000 (for two cheap anamorphic adapters with the proper clamps) up to multi-thousands. Although ebay bargains occasionally turn up you need two so that isn't really going to work for you.