anamorphic guidlines .jpg where did it go?

J

Jonathan12uiz

Well-known member
Hey guys there as a post on dvx a while back on a guy who marked anamorphic guidelines on his lcd by replacing a jpg file on his SD card. does anyone have the source jpg I'm talking about to mark 2.35.1 ratio on my cam. I searched anamorphic guidelines, but I can't seem to find it.

Some people have been saying to just use a screen capture, then overlay the 2.35.1 matte, but what settings do you use? JPG? RAW? 4:3? 3:2? 16:9? AVCHD 1080? etc?
 
I created a blank 2.35:1 image in photoshop, pointed my camera at the computer screen, filled the viewfinder horizonally with the image, placed the bottom edge on the bottom of the viewfinder, used the adjustable guide in the camera and lowered the line to match the image.
 
Take a 16:9 jpg photo with your camera. Make a 16:9 photo in Photoshop, with 2.35:1 guidelines on it. (Use the rulers and a calculator or something.) Then "save as" that Photoshop mask as the same photo file on your camera's SD card, replacing it. This will trick the camera into thinking IT actually took the photo, so it will display it on the LCD. Then mark your LCD. (I painted lines on my LCD with black nail polish, onto the Hoodman LCD protective film.) It's not as easy as just pointing your camera at your computer monitor, but it is very precise. Then you can use the Photoshop file you made the mask with, to make black bars in your NLE (at least you can in Vegas), by just dropping the PSD file onto the top video track, if your final output is 16:9 Blu-Ray/DVD.
 
swyzlstyx said:
Take a 16:9 jpg photo with your camera. Make a 16:9 photo in Photoshop, with 2.35:1 guidelines on it. (Use the rulers and a calculator or something.) Then "save as" that Photoshop mask as the same photo file on your camera's SD card, replacing it. This will trick the camera into thinking IT actually took the photo, so it will display it on the LCD. Then mark your LCD. (I painted lines on my LCD with black nail polish, onto the Hoodman LCD protective film.) It's not as easy as just pointing your camera at your computer monitor, but it is very precise. Then you can use the Photoshop file you made the mask with, to make black bars in your NLE (at least you can in Vegas), by just dropping the PSD file onto the top video track, if your final output is 16:9 Blu-Ray/DVD.
Click to expand...

Everytime i overwrite the jpg on the sd card, when I open it on the cam it is just a black screen, i cant zoom in or anything on the picture,
 
Jonathan12uiz said:
Everytime i overwrite the jpg on the sd card, when I open it on the cam it is just a black screen, i cant zoom in or anything on the picture,
Click to expand...

Try taking a JPG picture with the GH2, and using that picture as the basis for your guidelines base layer in PS, then just resaving (save as) it back onto the card. I think maybe that's what I did....it's been so long I can't remember. I'm using a GH1, if that matters.

If you want me to email you the JPG I made to do this, to save some Photoshop work, PM me your email address. I can also send you a PSD file that I use in Sony Vegas to mask off a 1920x1080 16:9 project with 2.35:1 letterboxing to match exactly the JPG I made to mask the GH1 LCD. Good luck!
 
swyzlstyx said:
Try taking a JPG picture with the GH2, and using that picture as the basis for your guidelines base layer in PS, then just resaving (save as) it back onto the card. I think maybe that's what I did....it's been so long I can't remember. I'm using a GH1, if that matters.

If you want me to email you the JPG I made to do this, to save some Photoshop work, PM me your email address. I can also send you a PSD file that I use in Sony Vegas to mask off a 1920x1080 16:9 project with 2.35:1 letterboxing to match exactly the JPG I made to mask the GH1 LCD. Good luck!
Click to expand...

you sir have a pm... :)
 
i stuck a LCD screen protector on the GH1 screen and with a permanent fine line marker drew two horizontal guide lines, i traced footage using lpowell's patch to get the lines in the right place.

1. buy a mobile phone screen guard.

2. cut it to fit your screen & stick the bad boy on.

3. use the custom guideline and put the horizontal to the very bottom of the screen... then press up 28 times... now draw your first permanent marker line.

4. now put it to the top and press down 28 times, draw your second line.

5. turn off the guideline function.

now you can to work within the 2.35:1 lines knowing what will get cropped in post. primitive but works a treat
 
terra1 said:
i stuck a LCD screen protector on the GH1 screen and with a permanent fine line marker drew two horizontal guide lines, i traced footage using lpowell's patch to get the lines in the right place.

1. buy a mobile phone screen guard.

2. cut it to fit your screen & stick the bad boy on.

3. use the custom guideline and put the horizontal to the very bottom of the screen... then press up 28 times... now draw your first permanent marker line.

4. now put it to the top and press down 28 times, draw your second line.

5. turn off the guideline function.

now you can to work within the 2.35:1 lines knowing what will get cropped in post. primitive but works a treat
Click to expand...


THANKS VERY MUCH FOR THE 28 UP DOWN TRICK!... works like a charm and very easy to remember... I had a screen protector on my gh1 already, so I marked it with a fine tip sharpie and I'm good to go... THANKS AGAIN, bc I've been having trouble replacing jpg files on my sd card... the GH wouldn't read them... they were just black screens... maybe it has something to do with the fact that I"m using a mac.
 
Oetam the 28 clicks up and 28 clicks down was traced from an in camera clip using lpowell's 2.35:1 anamorphic patch, trace lines and pen line thickness may vary but as a guide should work well as 2.35:1ish :smile:

Jonathan12uiz no probs glad it helped, i don't think putting an image back on the SD card to be read in camera would work, after you edit it on your comp id think file size, compression type and colour profiles would be all over the place, even if its the same format that the camera took it in.

i'l try it now... result to follow :smile:
 
terra1 said:
....i don't think putting an image back on the SD card to be read in camera would work, after you edit it on your comp id think file size, compression type and colour profiles would be all over the place, even if its the same format that the camera took it in.

i'l try it now... result to follow :smile:
Click to expand...


Works in Windows. ;)
 
just attempted it and no luck, tried jpeg and raw from photoshop on my mac with nae luck :smile:

swyzlstyx hahaaaa... i guess PC's gotta have one victory over MAC's hahaa :smile:

lucky i've still got an old rusty PC wacktop, might dust her down and try it, u importing into photoshop? editing slightly and saving out as? jpeg settings? embed colour profile, interlace/progressive options?
 
terra1 said:
just attempted it and no luck, tried jpeg and raw from photoshop on my mac with nae luck :smile:

swyzlstyx hahaaaa... i guess PC's gotta have one victory over MAC's hahaa :smile:

lucky i've still got an old rusty PC wacktop, might dust her down and try it, u importing into photoshop? editing slightly and saving out as? jpeg settings? embed colour profile, interlace/progressive options?
Click to expand...

I don't have a GH2, but that custom guidelines thingy sounds easier.

Well here, let me just try uploading the original JPG I made for doing this. It looks like my photo host won't allow me to embed the original file, but I can email it to you if you want, if you just want to play with it. Just PM me your address, or email me at: rusty at faithpoison dot com

This is a SmugMug compressed version, just to see what it looks like:

 
Oh, and BTW, before anyone uses my file to permanently mark their GH, you might want to make sure it's really 2.35:1. I don't remember how I came up with it...I just remember a calculator and some scribbles on a sticky note. :D
 
yeah as swyzlstyx pointed out, these methods are ruff and ready guides, they may not be exact 2.35:1 but they are super close :smile:
also in post you always have the 135 pixels top and 135 pixels bottom (when using 1080 cropped to 810) if you want to grab a bit extra from outside the pen lines.

remember to stick the screen guard on your LCD before... i repeat... BEFORE you use the marker pen! haha :smile:

swyzlstyx i dont have a GH2 either (?)
 
terra1 said:
i stuck a LCD screen protector on the GH1 screen and with a permanent fine line marker drew two horizontal guide lines, i traced footage using lpowell's patch to get the lines in the right place.
Click to expand...
Where did you get the footage?
 
I've done the cropping trick when exporting to a final file. Mine looked crappy. The top and bottom chopping amplified any fault in the middle part. Sharp center focused. But it's not easy to do MF on candid shot. Often I rely on AF lock. 20mm pancake is nice for that. But why does AFS mode continuously AF? Why doesn't AFS mode allow MF by default? It's beyond my imagination.
 
i shot some footage with my GH13 using a LA7200 anamorphic adapter, i had the MJPEG size set to 1920 x 810 within Ptool so when i played the clip back in camera it was actual 2.35:1, then i drew the lines on my screen from the playback screen, measured how many presses up and down using the custom guide line, 28 up, 28 down.
 
terra1 said:
i shot some footage with my GH13 using a LA7200 anamorphic adapter, i had the MJPEG size set to 1920 x 810 within Ptool so when i played the clip back in camera it was actual 2.35:1, then i drew the lines on my screen from the playback screen, measured how many presses up and down using the custom guide line, 28 up, 28 down.
Click to expand...


That's pretty cool, I just checked the "28 clicks" thing with the 2.35:1 guideline JPG I posted above, and it is spot on!
 
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