Anamorphic adapter question

Draccan

Well-known member
Hello,

I have two questions concerning the anamorphic adapter.

1. How does this adapter affect the LCD screen on the DVX100? What do you see on the LCD when having used the adapter?

2. I have the PAL, AG-DVX100AE - can I use an anamorphic adapter bought in the USA? The reason I ask is because the price is more than double in Denmark and I have friends in the USA who could get it for me. So is there any difference between anamorphic adapters for NTSC or PAL?

Best regards,

LLD
 
The image in the viewfinder or LCD will appear "squeezed." There is no difference between the PAL and NTSC versions of anamorphic adapters.
 
If you want to see the recordings unsqueezed, do I have to bring an lcd 16x9 TV? Is there any alternative? Is there an alternative that goes on battery rather than bringing a regular LCD Tv?

Best,
L.
 
Well that's one way. But there is a device that attaches to the LCD screen on the camera which will allow you to see the widescreen mode in real time. It's expensive. I think Century Optics makes one.
 
If you are going to use only LCD for shooting then I would suggest getting a portable dvd player (as stated on another thread) that is widescreen (16:9). Much cheaper than the LCD adapter and the larger screen allows you to see your shot more clearly. Many of them have battery option also.
 
After using this cam with the adapter for some time I can say that you dont really need to change the LCD. Just pretend you shooting 4:3 and then when you stretch it on a widescreen tv you will be amazed how much better its looks in the right aspect ratio.
 
I have found using something bigger for focus has given me much better results. Portable DVD player is no good for colors I might add.
 
Another solution, one that adds a lot of other capabilities is DV Rack. Not only can you set the aspect ratio to match the anamorphic adapter, but you gain a tapeless recording path and a wealth of additional tools. Once you start using it, you will wonder how (or why) you ever lived without it.


http://www.seriousmagic.com/dvrack.cfm

They offer a free trial so you can give it a test drive.
 
khmuse said:
Another solution, one that adds a lot of other capabilities is DV Rack. Not only can you set the aspect ratio to match the anamorphic adapter, but you gain a tapeless recording path and a wealth of additional tools. Once you start using it, you will wonder how (or why) you ever lived without it.


http://www.seriousmagic.com/dvrack.cfm

They offer a free trial so you can give it a test drive.

A piece of PC software?

Ok I will check it out..
 
Seeing the image squeezed in the LCD is really not an issue - you soon get used to it - as long as you make the decision to get used to it. Much cheaper than an adapter!

On the other hand, have a look round at other post concerning the anamorphic lens before you commit yourself. It's a bit of a handful to get best results out of - especially when squeeze mode in the camera works so well in the first place. I have one and I'm afraid to me it's become an expensive wide-angle adapter - but that's just me, see what other folk say.

Michael
 
Using the anamorphic adapter does require a bit of extra understanding and it has some constraints that need to be understood. I would add that if you are doing either film out or big projection (or just want the best resolution possible), the quality difference between it and squeeze mode is well worth the effort. I use it on nearly everything and can't imagine working without it.
 
And how do you judge focus? is it with charts and Barry's book?
Does anyone here have experience with the nebtek panasonic battery powered lcds? I've been checking out the 7" one via Rush's recommendation and I'm incredibly curious if the resolution is sufficient to judge a production that is big screen-aimed. I'd hate to invest the cash to find it can't help me focus. I plan to use the charts for most of my shots, but I have many many very intimate shots where I change distance to my subject constantly and feel that a real time focus judging situation would be beyond aidful.

Spencer Berry
 
When shooting with the anamorphic adapter, I use a back focus chart and then find the vertical and horizontal focus points, then just set the camera to the mean value.
 
khmuse said:
Another solution, one that adds a lot of other capabilities is DV Rack. Not only can you set the aspect ratio to match the anamorphic adapter, but you gain a tapeless recording path and a wealth of additional tools. Once you start using it, you will wonder how (or why) you ever lived without it.


http://www.seriousmagic.com/dvrack.cfm

They offer a free trial so you can give it a test drive.

I downloaded dvrack.. just demo and it seems pretty usable. My only concern is it still shows on an LCD screen (unless ur carting ur desktop around with you) I never trust colors on lcd. I know it has a lot more physical option than just using something like a portable dvd player.

Maybe someone can add something?
 
"When shooting with the anamorphic adapter, I use a back focus chart and then find the vertical and horizontal focus points, then just set the camera to the mean value."
In laymans terms how do I go about that ??
 
In response to Draccan's question "In laymans terms how do I go about that??"

1) Obtain a backfocus chart. There are a number of them available, but to save you the time, I put one up that you can download at:

http://www.museelectronics.com/cvp_focus_chart.pdf

2) Print out the above document. I like to put them on pretty stiff card stock so that they stay flatter.

3) Place the focus chart in your scene at the point of critical focus (like in front of someones face).

4) Zoom all the way in on the chart.

5) Look at the chart and start making focus adjustments. You will notice that there are two points where the focus is sharpest. One will have the vertical lines in sharp focus, the other will have the horizontal lines in sharp focus. Make a notation of the focus numbers for each of these two points.

6) Calculate the mean of these two numbers and use that as your focus point.

7) At a minimum stop the lens down enough to keep these two points in focus for the given aperture and focus settings that you will be using for this composition.

If you follow the above steps, you will be assured of getting correct focus with an anamorphic lens (any anamorphic lens, not just the one for the DVX). In order to make this simple, I usually have a chart on the back of the slate. Then, just have the 1st AC flip the slate over and make your focus adjustments. In a matter of a few shots, this will be an easy and routine practice that won't add more than a few seconds to your workflow.

You can also focus "by the numbers" but the above method is more accurate as it is based upon your optics not just the typical.
 
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