Anamorphic Adapter Inquiry: What would you like to see?

The panasonic has a closer focus than the isco's somewhere between 1-1.5m, and yeah it's quite soft wide open particularly at the edges. In the tests I did yesterday the 54 performed much better so I don't doubt that isco can make something new that works very well. The 54 is very well made and weighs 2 pounds (900gsm) if they can make something under 600gsm with better optics they will have a winner.

The front needs to have a screw thread like the 54 for mounting matteboxes and hoods. The 54 has a 95mm front thread if they could possibly shrink that down to 82mm you could mount filters to it or better still design it so that 2 or 3 72-77mm filters can be mounted between the prime and the adapter without any optical degradation.

it might be a good idea to make it focusable with just the right amount of rotation for a follow focus and sell it with a pressed on cine gear. Cine gears are expensive especially the pressed on one's and you would only need one on your adapter.
All these your observations will surely be taken in consideration in a new offer.

Did you test the Iscorama 54 against the Iscorama 36 in order to understand who's the best performer? Or both equal?

Did you check the same loss of sharpness? Take a glance on this my previous post:

(...) the Iscorama 54 is not as sharp as the smaller diameter ones.

Here's a sample @ 35mm focal (about 23/24mm in spherical equivalent):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/indonesiafoto/1509002440/in/photostream/

Maybe a matter of a disaligned setup or soft glass, who knows? But that's Nikkor glass!

Have you been finding the same loss of sharpness from the centre to the edges?
 
As squiq and others have mentioned there seems to be some form of play or potential play with the old ISCO while focusing. (I haven't handled the Isco so I'm not sure to what degree this exists.) This should DEFINITELY be added to list as something to be addressed with a new adapter:

*Solid lock off of the rotational anamorphic block, and elemination of any chance of play/wiggle while focusing/zooming.

As big as the AG-7200 is it is indeed surprising light, and that does help with stability of the image when focusing and or zooming with your lens. AS many people have noted though, the locking screw mechansim does leave a lot to be desired on the panasonic, though it definitly was designed for the dvx and the dvx alone.

So add solid lock off, and as light as it can be to the list.
 
Great Jeff, will add to it.

I know Emanuel and CBS are working the Isco guys. It'll be awesome to get different options which tend to ALSO bring different looks to the table. =D
 
All these your observations will surely be taken in consideration in a new offer.

Did you test the Iscorama 54 against the Iscorama 36 in order to understand who's the best performer? Or both equal?

Did you check the same loss of sharpness? Take a glance on this my previous post:



Have you been finding the same loss of sharpness from the centre to the edges?

my testing is inconclusive at this point, I have to run some more tests at different aperture settings under different lighting conditions and also with the 36 mounted to the helios 58mm to run a direct adapter comparison so it will probably be a week or so before I'm done as I'm waiting for some step-up rings to arrive from the US. I'll gradually post examples as I go along
 
I would most definitely be in the market for an anam. adapter, as long as it is under US$1000 and not heavier than 600g. Is that doable?
 
I would most definitely be in the market for an anam. adapter, as long as it is under US$1000 and not heavier than 600g. Is that doable?
I expect to have some (new) units available for sale in a few days, confirmed by an Isco rep. Price: 450.
 
I expect to have some (new) units available for sale in a few days, confirmed by an Isco rep. Price: 450.

You talking about a prime with a Nikon mount or an actual adapter unit?

I have been testing the Isco 50mm and it can hold its own with sharpness...just as sharp as any of my Canon lenses I use. The only thing it needs is the ability to focus from 0.5 meters to infinity (and smoothly) and you would have yourself the perfect lens. Keep all else the same IMHO.
 
You talking about a prime with a Nikon mount or an actual adapter unit?

I have been testing the Isco 50mm and it can hold its own with sharpness...just as sharp as any of my Canon lenses I use. The only thing it needs is the ability to focus from 0.5 meters to infinity (and smoothly) and you would have yourself the perfect lens. Keep all else the same IMHO.

Have you shot anything outside with it? I think it needs multi-coating.
 
You talking about a prime with a Nikon mount or an actual adapter unit?

I have been testing the Isco 50mm and it can hold its own with sharpness...just as sharp as any of my Canon lenses I use. The only thing it needs is the ability to focus from 0.5 meters to infinity (and smoothly) and you would have yourself the perfect lens. Keep all else the same IMHO.

Have you managed to unscrew the front of your Isco50 and try it with other lenses ?
 
I can see why it might need coatings. I shot some stuff outside yesterday and it does wash out a bit...but I actually really like it.

I tired to unscrew it but the lens protrudes from the anamorphic part so that you can't attach it to anything. Does anyone know anything different? Maybe there is another way to take it apart.

Here is some outside stuff from yesterday:

http://vimeo.com/5814576
 
I second octopi on the coating issues. Flares are great, but I can't help but feel a new adapter should be coated to an extent. Even a coated lens is going to flare... and not every MC is like a Zeiss *T coating which is some of the most flare resistant coating ever developed, nearly impervious to flare... the new ISCO adapter should definitely NOT be *T coated... I think we all want a vintage anamorphic look to an extent... but... it should probably still be coated.

The Panasonic 7200 is definitely coated but still flares... not nearly as much as the ISCO, but keep in mind flares also depend on the lens on the back end of the adapter.

Cosina Voigtlander has released modern rangerfinder M-mount lenses sometimes coming in two kinds of coatings (their nokton 40mm f1.4 for example). The two options are single coated and multicoated... some argue single is better for black and white, some say it's more "vintage looking"... but two things are certain about it, the single coating has less contrast, and flares more, multicoating: more contrast, flares less.

Bottom line is, I don't want it to look impervious like zeiss *T coated lenses, I want it to flare like these ISCO tests show, maybe a haaair less, ;) ... but to say it shouldn't have ANY coating at all is extreme. Maybe single coating can be done... or I'm sure there is still coating on the original ISCO, probably just not multicoating. Lens designers are going to know a whoooole lot more about this than a layman like me... just think it should be said MC is not the enemy per say... hopefully a comprimise between vinttage and modern coating exists... :)

By the way, gorgeous footage octopi!!
 
I tired to unscrew it but the lens protrudes from the anamorphic part so that you can't attach it to anything. Does anyone know anything different? Maybe there is another way to take it apart.

You can mount it on a lens with a front element that is quite recessed like a Nikon 1.8 (it's is so recessed it is practically a cup!) - squig recommends the "helios which is faster at f/2 and 58mm and has really creamy bokeh" (and they go for about $60!).

Compare the Nikon f1.8 to the Nikon 1.4 (top Nikon f/1.8 - bottom Nikon f/1.4)

247091.jpg


nikkor-af-50mm-f-14-d.jpg



If the rear of the anamorphic protrudes too much or the lens is not recessed enought you could place some step up/down rings between the lens and anamorphic part to give you a little more distance.
 
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Right now I'm getting ready to shoot an anamorphic short on an HVX200 with the Panasonic DVX100 Anamorphic adapter. here are issues I'm running into while shooting:


  • Flares are very short, even with really hot lights.
  • Flares are hardly noticeable with larger f-stops, which is needed if you really want to focus.
  • On my 35-105 Canon IS lens the flares are a lot nicer, however the adapter isn't big enough to get more than the center of the frame in focus. Flares still don't go edge to edge on this lens.

Things I'd like to see:

  • To get a "real" anamorphic look, i'd like to see 2:1 ratio, just because the oval shape of the lens flares really give that anamorphic look.
  • 2:1 would be a nice option even if we were re-cropping the image to go back to 2.35:1
  • much bigger adapter, with the ability to focus the adapter so that you can zoom through an entire lens and still keep the image sharp.
  • Large enough unit to put on full framed 5D M2 and not have way out of focus corners, or edges of the frame optically blocked by the sides of the adapter.
  • The ability to take the lens hood on and off of the front of the unit.
  • Availability at many rental houses so that we can try this gear out on our various cameras. Tracking down the Panasonic anamorphic adapter was very difficult to do.
 
Right now I'm getting ready to shoot an anamorphic short on an HVX200 with the Panasonic DVX100 Anamorphic adapter. here are issues I'm running into while shooting:


  • Flares are very short, even with really hot lights.
  • Flares are hardly noticeable with larger f-stops, which is needed if you really want to focus.
  • On my 35-105 Canon IS lens the flares are a lot nicer, however the adapter isn't big enough to get more than the center of the frame in focus. Flares still don't go edge to edge on this lens.

Things I'd like to see:

  • To get a "real" anamorphic look, i'd like to see 2:1 ratio, just because the oval shape of the lens flares really give that anamorphic look.
  • 2:1 would be a nice option even if we were re-cropping the image to go back to 2.35:1
  • much bigger adapter, with the ability to focus the adapter so that you can zoom through an entire lens and still keep the image sharp.
  • Large enough unit to put on full framed 5D M2 and not have way out of focus corners, or edges of the frame optically blocked by the sides of the adapter.
  • The ability to take the lens hood on and off of the front of the unit.
  • Availability at many rental houses so that we can try this gear out on our various cameras. Tracking down the Panasonic anamorphic adapter was very difficult to do.

Awesome request list. Thanks so much for posting that. Will add it.
 
Anybody know what lens they used on star trek? and is it multicoated?

That nikon f/1.8 looks like it might fit. I think the old nikon f/2 ai has recessed glass too.
 
I can see why it might need coatings. I shot some stuff outside yesterday and it does wash out a bit...but I actually really like it.

I tired to unscrew it but the lens protrudes from the anamorphic part so that you can't attach it to anything. Does anyone know anything different? Maybe there is another way to take it apart.

Here is some outside stuff from yesterday:

http://vimeo.com/5814576

you're taking it apart right, a lens with recessed front glass and a couple of step-up/down rings and you're in business. I've figured I need 2 rings for my helios to fit right. I suggest nobody go out and buy a lens until I try it though.

what were your camera settings on that clip? And that's with a +1 diopter yeah?
 
Anybody know what lens they used on star trek? and is it multicoated?

That nikon f/1.8 looks like it might fit. I think the old nikon f/2 ai has recessed glass too.

Squig mentioned the Nikon f/2 as being a candidate too - you would need to check first of course.
 
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Question: will simply having a 1.5 or 2x Anamorphic adapter get us the oval OOF highlights or bokeh?
 
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