Anamaphoric Adaptor

F

FutureDVXUser

Well-known member
Hey, I got it that Anamaphoric Adaptor... The footage looks really wierd... Everything is long... Am I supposed to keep it in 4:3 letterbox?

Is that what the image is gonna look like on a standard television if it isn't widescreen?

Please let me know....

Thanks
 
You need to "unsqueeze" it to 16:9 project.
If you want to display it on a 4:3 telly, best to use the Letterbox format (black bars on top and bottom)
 
But, the thing is... Maybe It'll play on a 4:3 TV... But if somebody has a widescreen TV than it'll be playing on a widescreen TV....

So if I use the anamaphoric adaptor and shoot in 4:3 letterbox... How should I (if I ever for the life of me figure it out) burn the DVD? Or even edit the DVD? a 16:9 widescreen right? But than if somebody watches a 16:9 widescreen on a 4:3 letterbox, the image comes out crap right?
 
FutureDVXUser said:
But, the thing is... Maybe It'll play on a 4:3 TV... But if somebody has a widescreen TV than it'll be playing on a widescreen TV....

So if I use the anamaphoric adaptor and shoot in 4:3 letterbox... How should I (if I ever for the life of me figure it out) burn the DVD? Or even edit the DVD? a 16:9 widescreen right? But than if somebody watches a 16:9 widescreen on a 4:3 letterbox, the image comes out crap right?
Click to expand...

by vidled: You need to "unsqueeze" it to 16:9 project.
If you want to display it on a 4:3 telly, best to use the Letterbox format (black bars on top and bottom)

I think you should really go by what vidled wrote you. The You brought the anamorphic lens to all you to get everything in the scene that 16:9. The image will be compressed in a 4:3 ratio until you uncompress it in post. Once uncompressed (or unsqueezed) in post you will have a 16:9 ratio image. Your there. You have your 16:9 image. Display letterbars on the top and bottom for 4:3 giving you a wide screen view or just go with what you unsqueezed 16:9. Just stick to that. Very good answer from vidled.

Don't over think it.
 
I know what he was sayin'... But... (My questions are all over the place because I am an idiot)

I was wondering... What happens if somebody watched the 16:9 widescreen footage on a 4:3 letterbox TV? Will it look the same as it does on the onboard LCD? Or will it be 4:3 letterbox with the sides cut off?

Thanks again
 
You can't make one piece of footage look "right" on two different-shaped TVs. It's not possible. It'll be stretched on one and normal on the other, or squeezed on one and normal on the other.

The solution is to burn your footage to DVD and let the DVD player handle it. DVD players have aspect ratio conversion hardware that can handle the different shapes of the TVs.

When using the anamorphic adapter you always treat your footage as 16:9.
 
Yeah you do, the adaptor doesn't have threads for a Mattebox...

So as long as the DVD player fixes the aspect, that is sweet...

Thanks
 
do not shoot in 4:3 letterbox, just shoot in regular 4:3... do you have the eyepiece that compliments the anamorphic adapter? If not, go into your display settings and change it to 16:9, this will let you view the footage not stretched on your LCD. Be careful though, since doing this takes away the underscan feature of the LCD.

in post, you choose an anamorphic sequence setting. when you export to DVD, make sure all of the settings are on 16:9. If you are using DVD Studio Pro, there are options on how you want 16:9 to show up on a 4:3 display (letterboxing is one of them). I'm sure these settings can be found in most DVD authoring programs
 
A little off topic but could somebody please tell me what kind of light loss there is when using the Panny Anamorphic Adapter? Thanks.
 
I think I'm just gonna get a 7" widescreen monitor and use that for focusing and seeing the footage right.

As for the focus, to me, it seems like even when the focus is on auto, I still have to manual focus... But it shouldn't take too long to get the hang of it... The only problem is the way the footage look in the onboard LCD...
 
snpx said:
focus is hard to find with the lens.
how do you manage this? always with a chart?
Click to expand...

The chart is pretty crucial, actually. If you focus to what looks right to your eye at the time you're shooting, you're going to find that your focus is soft when you unsqueeze the footage.

Focus your shot so that it looks right (we would often use push auto), and then refer to the chart and make the adjustment. Your shot is going to look soft now but, trust me, it will be in focus later when you unsqueeze.

This seems like a pain, but it's really not that hard and starts to become second nature after awhile (you might even find yourself remembering the adjustments without having to look at the chart, which is scary).

What we did, so that we didn't have to carry Barry Green's book around with us everywhere, is to print the chart on a card the size of the battery and then taped it on. This way we always had the numbers right there in front of us and could make the adjustments really quickly.
 
Robert is correct. I happen to use a cheap and easy way to focus. I stop down the iris more when zoomed in. Seems to work for me. I looked at the chart in the DVX book and noticed this was the general case. Of course, a better way is to use a large monitor.
 
FutureDVXUser said:
it seems like even when the focus is on auto, I still have to manual focus...
Click to expand...

Never use Auto focus with the ana adapter. You must manually focus each shot. Barrys book has a distance chart for focus right? The trusty old tape measure is fast and ensures accurate focus every time.
 
The book came with stickers of the focus chart you can stick right on you cameras original matt box. That and a tape measure and you are good to go.
Higher end DVD authoring programs allow for anamorphic footage and the dvd will change shape depending on what TV its playing to.
 
I didn't record anything, but... I hooked my camera up to my TV (which is actually a standard TV and not widescreen, so I can understand the squeez), but when I do a DOF and blur the background out... or when I face the camera on a pole... the footage gets squiggly and it's doing some bug-out type motion as if fire is burning... (I don't have a grab, it's just what happens on the TV).

Could this just be because my TV isn't widescreen? Or is this the camera/adaptor actin a damn fool?

Please let me know...

Thanks...
 
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