Alternatives for 7506s?

MattinSTL said:
Zephyrnoid... if I could have one wish granted about the 7506's that would be it. I also HATE the coiled cord that comes on these things. I wish it was half the length, or some intermediate length straight cord. I'd love to see an easily replaceable cord that plugs/locks into the left can.
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Is that all? Just wish for half the length cable?

That's an easy one, if you are handy with a solder pen. If you are not, you (and everyone dealing with audio or video) should learn how to solder/repair cables.

In the case of the Sony you will lose the 2-way connector, as you would have to use an adaptor, either to go up to 1/4" or down to 1/8".

But it's very easy, and I can explain how to if you don't know it.
 
Well, after nearly killing my lungs on the first try with the Asprin trick, I sold the mess I made on E-bay. Who knows, a DVXuser may have bought it from me. I feel so lame, after so many years of soldering to be beaten by a Sony Cable. The proper punishment for me is I now have to buy another replacement... off e-bay unless you all have a source for a sub $60 unit in good shape. My Bad.
 
Sure- the gorry details:
Plan A- first I did what any red-blooded solder iron expert would do- start by cutting- I did that. I basically excised all but 3" of coil (this would be the 'shock' absorber in case of violent pulls on the cable). Next I carefully removed the outer sheathing down to about 1/2" on each of my two ends. Then I studied the three strands within. "Humn, fine wires" I thought. So ( not knowing about the lacquer insulation) I somehow figured Sony insulated the three groups with the outer sheathing somehow. A resonable fantasy right? Hence I proceeded to intertwine the strands from the two parts together by like color, All copper, Green & Copper W/ Green dashes. So far so good. Then out comes the iron, solder & flux. The iron BTW is a cheapie from Radio Shack ( good for most of the crude work that I do). Ok, I'm now having a **** Fit cause the solder just rolls off the joints. What the F#@K ??? I'm screwed I think to myself. No matter, Let me at least test the connection. Well, as you might have already guessed- No bloody signal, at ALL! :kali: So the "you screwed up Mr Einstien" feeling came over me. I put it all down and headed straight to the Head-Fi Forums and of course, here at DVXUser. That's when I discovered about the Lacquer and the two time honored methods for removing this devious insulator.... and thus to ...
Plan B- I first tried the lighter flame burn-off method and though I still could not get a signal from the un-soldered splice, I did manage to test the plug end to prove that it was working fine. Next, I tried the Asprin-as-Solvent/Flux torture. Well, at the time of this experiment, I was on the phone with my genius buddy, AWR talking about al this.. and there I was just playing with the Solder iron on the Asprin, watching it clean the tip so nicely. Then SUDDENLY my nostrils went on fire with a HORRIBLE burning sensation. End of phone chat and I was out to the balcony gasping for air- lungs and nostrils in trauma. Seriously, I'm not making this up!
I survived to know that this was my limit. Not sure what I did wrong but without a mask, I'm not trying that trick again- not without parental supervision:shocked:

So here I am- BEGGING for someone out there to do it for me. Some things in life are worth paying a reasonable price for. I now believe that an expertly shortened Headphone Cable is one of those things -if burning asprin tablets is one of the required techniques. I'm not even willing to roll my own cable from scratch at this stage.

So I'll never make it into the practical side of the IEEE but that's not my dream, only a shorter cable.

Now after you've all had a good long laugh- stoke up that computer and hit me with your assessment of where I screwed up and where I should go on the forums to hire or buy a solution to this perennial cable challenge. Someday, whaen I have much more time to learn the finer points, I may try it again- just not now
:nads:




carlmart said:
Can you explain a bit more on what and why a Sony cable had you beaten?
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Wow - now THATS entertainment. Sorry - and glad you're ok. Never heard of asprin heating - you've probably started a new fad.

Hmmmm - If I remember, lacquer is made from the dissolved exoskeleton of cockroaches - or is that shellac? anyway - something like that.

Lacquer thinner is available at home depot or your local paint store - be careful, it'll eat most anything plastic... Methyl Ethyl Keytone also works.

I'd try acetone first (nail polish remover) 'cause I'm cheap.

How are you going to re-insulate after your micro-soldering job??

Good luck
 
Back on topic, 7506's for me, had them since they came out and still use them pretty much all the time, even though I have owned most all of the others at one stage or another. Must have gone through a couple of dozen other brands/models/types by now, but always have switched back to 7506s. Guess after all this time it's what I'm used to monitoring through, so if ever there's any problem or question with audio quality, it's on with the 7506's to check things out...
 
I have an old 7506 that has the ear pads all ripped up at work in the junk box. I'll see if I can take apart the left side ear piece and put on a completely different cable. I agree that the cable needs to be shorter for most work.
 
Thanks My Savior! Nuff said, end of story- I have a few on watch at EvilBay. If someone here has a spare pair, I have replacement earpads. :Drogar-BigGrin(DBG)
BRH said:
You cannot solder the Sony wires. I have done it one time, and have concluded the result is unreliable. I have posted previously about this- believe it!

http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?t=108063&highlight=7506

For the $99 go and buy a new pair. Senn HD280 same price, but very uncomfortable for my big fat head.
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If that's an offer to sell them to me with a customized new cable- please let me know and I'll stop searching ealswhere. I have like-new earpads already Thanks!:cheesy:.
BRH said:
I have an old 7506 that has the ear pads all ripped up at work in the junk box. I'll see if I can take apart the left side ear piece and put on a completely different cable. I agree that the cable needs to be shorter for most work.
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i use the hd280pro by sennheiser - i use em for one main reason: i work in high noise environments fairly often. whether its recording on the beach, halfway down a waterfall, on an airport runway or busy road, or in a club.

the 280s give better background attenuation, and they are well built. when you get them they are a little stiff and conduct some noise down the cable into the phones, but this goes away after a little bit of use!

still 7506s are the standard, but the 280s work better for me, personally.
 
timapter said:
i use the hd280pro by sennheiser - i use em for one main reason: i work in high noise environments fairly often. whether its recording on the beach, halfway down a waterfall, on an airport runway or busy road, or in a club.

the 280s give better background attenuation, and they are well built. when you get them they are a little stiff and conduct some noise down the cable into the phones, but this goes away after a little bit of use!

still 7506s are the standard, but the 280s work better for me, personally.
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Just found out that the hd280pro is cheaper than the Sony where I live - interesting...
If my k271 ever die, I´ll give it a try...
 
MattinSTL said:
For production cans in the same price range an accepted alternative is the Sennheiser HD-280 Pro. Personally I'd still get the 7506.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/240764-REG/Sennheiser_HD280PRO_HD_280_Pro_.html


$80 from B&H right now... must email to get price and then use link to buy.
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I already said this earlier in this same thread, but the HD280 is $80 from B&H... and yes, that is $13 cheaper then the 7506 price listed above, and $20 cheaper then the usual $100 price on the 7506.
 
MattinSTL said:
I already said this earlier in this same thread, but the HD280 is $80 from B&H... and yes, that is $13 cheaper then the 7506 price listed above, and $20 cheaper then the usual $100 price on the 7506.
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That´s so crazy, Sennheiser is cheaper in the US than in Germany (even deducting the 19% VAT)!
 
you guys have no idea how sweet you have things with gear.... here in south africa most equipment is either not available (zaxcom, sonosax, kinda sorta lectro, ktek) or around DOUBLE the US price!!!!! The only exception is Sennheiser who kindly offer my an "international" rate on gear I use professionally. Great guys...
 
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