Affordable Wireless HD transmission from Brite-View AirSyncHD

Thanks for the reply! I was hoping it was possible to draw power to both items from a single LP-E6 battery, I don't know if I have extra weight available in my "steadicam" rig for 2 batteries and plates, so maybe that multi-outputed one works better for me. Don't know if it has enough juice for 1 hour operation.

Dan, you're from the US right? If so, it would be quite costly to order the plates from you, if not, I'd like to know prices, please. =)
 
I'm in the US, and as of February 16th I'm charging $150 per plate or cable, regulated to the requirements of the brite-view. I could try building you a custom 2 voltage output plate, but I'm gonna tell you right now - you won't get much life from a single LPE6 running two devices.... A better plan might be this battery:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.ph...s-1/14-8v-2500mah-25c-li-po-battery-pack.html

and then a custom regulated and unregulated output from it...not too sexy looking though, but electrically and physically quite a possibility.
 
I don't know which option is better for my needs. I like the idea of being able to use LP-E6 batteries to power my entire rig but I also like the idea of having only one battery doing that, of course that way I'd have to have at least 3 batteries of those for 1 day of shooting. I'm also unsure if I should wait or not for the professional model brite-view is developing, but seeing they don't have a release date planed yet... it could be a long wait. I'm also in doubt about the space the Air SyncHD transmitter takes and how it would affect my "steadicam" (glidecam 2000 HD) movement.

Thank you for your help Dan. =)
 
Here I am using the airsyncHD with a Panasonic BTLH-1760. All the BT series with DVI connectors will work with the airsyncHD if you use the right cable and are in the correct DVI mode.
 
Dan I am interested in this system for HDSDI out for use with Anton Bauer 12V battery system on a Varicam....I'm assuming I need an HDSDI to HDMI converter and your D Tap cables...I have an Anton Bauer powered monitor as well (Panasonic BT-LH900A)

Is this all I need to make it work?

My thanks in advance

Kris Denton
Cinematographer
Los Angeles
 
So, has anyone tried splitting the HDMI signal before sending to the Brite-view? Just curious if it works?
 
@KrisDenton: I'd recommend the use of a Redbyte Decimator 2 to turn your HD-SDI signal into HDMI on the camera, and then connect that to the brite-view.

on the receiving side you would need either an HDMI monitor, or if you have an AJA HA5 that could turn the hdmi signal back into HD-SDI.

Still cheaper than a Camwave, but a bit of a workaround.

As far as splitting the signal before the airsyncHD - I have no idea why you would need to do that - the airsynchd has a passthrough built in. here is a text diagram for you:

>|Camera----->AirsyncHD|-->onboard hdmi monitor + Wireless|--->((( )))-airsyncHD receiver|--->hdmi LCD


What this means is that if you are using any of the canon DSLR's that turn off your builtin lcd monitor, you still have the ability to use an onboard external LCD via the airsyncHD passthrough.
 
Dan, thanks for providing info about this sollution. I wondered, do you have any idea if the air sync will become unstable if the camera is moving? And how far is a realistic reach? I'm hoping to use a sollution like this in a live event project, connected to a video mixer.
Do you think the signal will remain stable, even if the camera man is moving on the floor, with i distance of about 65 feet (using 720 50p signal). I'm thinking there will be no (or very few objects) between the transciever and reciever.

Thanks!
 
evero said:
I wondered, do you have any idea if the air sync will become unstable if the camera is moving? And how far is a realistic reach?
Do you think the signal will remain stable, even if the camera man is moving on the floor, with i distance of about 65 feet (using 720 50p signal). I'm thinking there will be no (or very few objects) between the transciever and reciever.
Thanks!
Click to expand...

I've used the airsynchd in many highly dynamic moving situations:

Car to car car viewing with car mounts
Golf-Cart to stationary video village
With handheld in a large convention center
With big steadicam moves.

The max range I can "guarantee" would be 90'
That said I have gone much further In the kind of environment you describe. I have found it to be extremely robust against interference, and generally very stable.
I surprised myself the other day testing an hdelight (the baby brother) and got about 100' (they claim it's only good to 30')- but with signal breakup towards the far end. Airsynchd generally is either on or off, never seen signal breakage like with the hdelight.

I'd recommend testing it before you do a live event, but I've had several people thank me and brite-view profusely from using them at trade shows.
 
Now available as a complete wireless HD solution for rent at Digital Film Studios, Los Angeles.
818.771.0019
As for the DFS Wireless System.
 
Hi Dan- Was wondering if you can tell me what the best way to make this a mobile unit. I just purchased the air sync hd but need to bring it in the field for run and gun type shoots.
2 things I want to try to so is figure a way to attach the transmitter and a battery (perhaps one of the ones you suggested on ebay 5, 9, 12v) to a cheese plate for my redrock shoulder mount. Any ideas on an elegant way to do that?

And for the receiver I am thinking of paring it with a lilliput or leadstar monitor and again an ebay battery. But It seems cumbersome to carry 3 individual pieces especially in a run and gun situation. Any suggestions on how to make this one manageable unit? Is there some sort of affordable way to bundle all three items into one piece (battery, receiver, and monitor). Is one monitor better then another for this purpose?

Any ideas are welcome.

Dan_Kanes said:
I've used the airsynchd in many highly dynamic moving situations:

Car to car car viewing with car mounts
Golf-Cart to stationary video village
With handheld in a large convention center
With big steadicam moves.

The max range I can "guarantee" would be 90'
That said I have gone much further In the kind of environment you describe. I have found it to be extremely robust against interference, and generally very stable.
I surprised myself the other day testing an hdelight (the baby brother) and got about 100' (they claim it's only good to 30')- but with signal breakup towards the far end. Airsynchd generally is either on or off, never seen signal breakage like with the hdelight.

I'd recommend testing it before you do a live event, but I've had several people thank me and brite-view profusely from using them at trade shows.
Click to expand...
 
Dan_Kanes said:
If you don't have an investment in LP-e6 batteries or something with a P-Tap - then there are 5 volt batteries on Ebay like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Portable-12V-9V...ultDomain_0&hash=item27b5f8d3ce#ht_3268wt_907

.
Click to expand...

I just received one of this batteries, plugged the AirSyncHD to the 5v port and I only get a purple light and the channel light keeps blinking, the battery is fully charged :Drogar-Angry(DBG): does anyone knows what this means?

BTW I did check that the polarity was right. -Co+ (negative outside/positive inside)
 
Based on my kill-a-watt, it looks like my HDelight transmitter requires about 2-4w and receiver requires 4-8w, and the HDMI splitter I use with the HDelight also uses 5v at 1-2w.

I have a similar chinese ebay battery with 12v and 5v usb outputs and given the size, it seems very likely the 5v converter is not a switching converter but just something that throws away 5v and is limited to no more than the usb 5v 500ma standard which it appears is not enough for these HDMI tx/rx units.

I used the battery with my phone which has an app that tells me ma current usage, and it gives me less than half the milliamps of the standard 5v 1a charger and it still gets quite hot when charging the phone. I think it is converting 5v 500ma (2.5W) to 12v 500ma (6W) rather than 12v 200ma (2.5W) just based on that it makes sense given the heat generated and the battery life. This means you need to forget about using the 5v port in any situation besides when you might need 5v 500ma power in a pinch (not enough for the brite-view).

What I did was buy two ~$1 car-to-usb power (12-24v to 5v 2a) adapters from ebay and took it apart and resoldered some 2.1mm plugs on it and i tested it with my brite-view HDelight transmitter and sewell 2port HDMI splitter simultaneously and then separately with the HDelight receiver it seems to work great with both combinations.
 
Last edited:
nyvz said:
Based on my kill-a-watt, it looks like my HDelight transmitter requires about 2-4w and receiver requires 4-8w, and the HDMI splitter I use with the HDelight also uses 5v at 1-2w.

I have a similar chinese ebay battery with 12v and 5v usb outputs and given the size, it seems very likely the 5v converter is not a switching converter but just something that throws away 5v and is limited to no more than the usb 5v 500ma standard which it appears is not enough for these HDMI tx/rx units.

I used the battery with my phone which has an app that tells me ma current usage, and it gives me less than half the milliamps of the standard 5v 1a charger and it still gets quite hot when charging the phone. I think it is converting 5v 500ma (2.5W) to 12v 500ma (6W) rather than 12v 200ma (2.5W) just based on that it makes sense given the heat generated and the battery life. This means you need to forget about using the 5v port in any situation besides when you might need 5v 500ma power in a pinch (not enough for the brite-view).

What I did was buy two ~$1 car-to-usb power (12-24v to 5v 2a) adapters from ebay and took it apart and resoldered some 2.1mm plugs on it and i tested it with my brite-view HDelight transmitter and sewell 2port HDMI splitter simultaneously and then separately with the HDelight receiver it seems to work great with both combinations.
Click to expand...

Great find, will try those car-to-usb converters, thanks for the tip.
 
Jeeez, my rig is getting more cluttered every day.

FS100 has an HDMI out only, no SDI.

I need to feed an external recorder, a monitor and the transmitter. So I would need a 3 fold HDMI splitter and power for the splitter (5V), monitor (12), recorder (12V), camera (7.5V) and the transmitter (mine needs also 12V).

I wish I could power all that from a single V.mount or Anton Bauer battery, but it would probably take an octopus of cables, splitters, voltage converters and what not to achieve this.

Would be nice to have a little box that lives on top of the battery with all those different voltages and outputs - preferably locking connectors.

Any ideas?

Frank
 
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