AF100 Start Stop record jack finally figured out

olof

DVXuser Sponsor
It took a while to figure this one out.

Here is a brief description and my latest Email to a Pany Tec, Thanks for the help Jan, Yakow and Alex.

This was keeping me from shipping my wooden Handle with switch, now I have to order a dual pole switch to make this work properly.

Here is a copy of my Email and the diagram that goes with it.

"Hi Yakov,

I finally figured it out.

I Bought a Manfrotto 521P that works as a stop start for the AF100.

It took me a while to figure out how it works. Initially it looks as if you only need to close A and C, but on further investigation, I found you also need to close B to C at the same time through a 10K ohm resistor. I had to use a very sensitive Ohm meter to find this out.

It was driving me crazy for a while. But by disconnecting the Manfrotto's cable and simply closing A to C did not work on their cable either. I actually thought I may have had a defective camera. When Yakov tested a similar remote and reported only A to C was closed. But then I started to use the more sensitive scale on my ohm meter.

Inclosed is a diagram.

I will publish this diagram on DVX info so that others that have been frustrated by this can see this solution.

Thanks for your help and any comment would be greatly appreciated.


Olof Ekbergh
Westside A V Studios"


StartStopRecordAF100.png
 
That's just what I did a couple of weeks ago and using and old headset to make a remote start/stop. But you don't need to switch B to C. You can just leave it connected with a 10K resistor.
 
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That's just what I did a couple of weeks ago and using and old headset to make a remote start/stop. But you don't need to switch B to C. You can just leave it connected with a 10K resistor.

Pardon my ignorance, but isn't it OK to just wire them together? I did that, and it seems to work fine.

Signed,

Not an Engineer
 
By wiring them together. You have a potential of .04v between B and C and a potential of 3.2v between A/B and C.

So wiring A and B together is better than either to C.

But even that is not so good you will drain your battery a little. And also the B part is for zoom control. So when/if power zoom lenses are available then you may find it zooming one way or the other.

Also by wiring them together, you will trigger the start/stop every time you plug the cable in or unplug it (not so good). If wired the way I suggest, this is how Manfrotto and Varizoom does it, that will not happen.

I wanted to do this exactly right, because I am selling my solution, and I don't want to create problems down the road or cause warranty issues. That is why I involved Panasonic directly. Anything can be reverse engineered, it just takes time and can cause problems.

I will also try a diode solution to this next week. I will post here if there are any further developments.

PS here is a photo of the handle with the switch built in.

picture-2.jpg
 
Love the handle design. Reminds me very much of an Aaton grip. Please tell me this mounts on a 15mm rod....
 
I will be making 2 versions of the handle. One that uses standard 15mm rods. And one that replaces the Pany handle and is adjustable forward and back.

I will be shipping a few beta versions later this week, of both types.

I should have the finalized version available in a week or two. The handle will be available in a number of different woods as well.

Both versions will also pivot on a rosette joint, here is a shot of my first beta version pivot setup.

Pivot.jpg
 
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