GH2 Adding a CPL to the Heliopan Vari ND- do they work well together?

L

L1N3ARX

Well-known member
Has anyone stacked a CPL with the Heliopan or any Vari ND? I know singh ray makes a combined filter with both together, but has anyone had any trouble stacking the 2 ? The Heliopan I'm getting does 6 stops, but I'm thinking that I'll need at least one or more stops in broad daylight to stay at 1.4-2.0.

Do CPLs cut light normally? And by how much? I'm getting a cheap CPL by Tiffen > http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-77CP-7...TF8&qid=1352580313&sr=8-1&keywords=tiffen+cpl
I was hoping that adding a CPL would not only help me reduce reflections but also give me an extra stop or so.
 
Yes, I have stacked them. Remember though to always place the Polarizer first then the Nd. I would say it gives about a stop of light, but in Bright days you really need a dark ND filter if you want to keep your shutter at 40-50 and iso at 200.
 
I got a lens off ebay this week, and have been shooting with Lightcraft II ND Filter on it.
Only noticed today that the seller has left a polarising filter on the lens so I'd had them both stacked.

To be honest, I really don't know anything about polarising filters or the advantages of them!
 
I have those 10-stop B+Ws, but don't use them much. At ISO 400, & 1/50th shutter, they'll knock direct Sun down to the f/1.4 region. I 've never used them on the GH2, & don't know if they'd cause IR contamination. I used to stack a Hot Mirror in front of mine, but never loved that solution.

I'd test it for you, but the weather in LA isn't cooperating.

Unless you have a strong need for this density I'd suggest something much less extreme.
 
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Bern Caughey said:
I suggest a regular ND in place of yet another polarizer.
Click to expand...

Well like I said, the CPL is for reducing reflections among other things... which a regular ND will not do and even exasperate. I just wanted to know if I'd get the added benefit of cutting light be another stop or so with my Vari.
 
The Vari is made up of two polarizers, & cuts much like a regular polarizer. Many DPs avoid polarizers, especially when shooting skin, as it can deaden specularity.

Whenever possible I prefer traditional NDs to Variables, & if I need polarization, stack on top of a normal ND. At, & especially beyond, 1.2 ND on most cameras, including film, risks IR contamination, which can look nasty.

Unless you really need shallow DOF in direct Sun, I suggest weaker NDs. If you need that DOF consider IRNDs, but I generally find f/2.8 a good working stop for m4/3 cameras.
 
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I use a Hoya ND-4 and a Hoya CPL quite a bit. It allows me to keep 1/48th in bright sunshine and cuts down on the blowout from glare off water, snow and shiny objects quite nicely. Bright sun and snow requires 2x ND-4 and a CPL and even then you can't get to F/2.8 very easily. If you really want to get to f/1.4 - 2 you are going to need a s*%t load of ND and the CPL will just add another 1/2 stop or so on the stack. Never tried the variable ND's so can't comment there.

Cheers,
Pete
 
L1N3ARX said:
I know singh ray makes a combined filter with both together...
Click to expand...

Could be wrong, but believe the Sing-Ray in just a traditional Vari-ND with only two glass elements. What makes it unique is it's rotational collar located behind the Vari-ND. This collar is basically built like a polarizer's housing, but without a glass element, so allows the Variable ND in front of it to be rotated to maximimize it's polarizing effect.

This is a much better solution then a three polarizer sandwich, as even stacking any two filters often leads to undesirable reflections.

I tested a DIY version that utilized the same principle. Mine wasn't oversized enough to avoid vignetting with many lenses, & I wasn't interested enough to purchase a solution, but can see how it it would be desirable to many others.
 
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