Add physical shutter to 5D2 to eliminate wobble, Dan Vance style?
- Thread starter PaulM
- Start date
so how about hacking the firmware so that the shutter is used in live view? it could probably keep up with the speed since i think it's the mirror flipping that limits the speed in continuous still mode.
/matt
joe 1008
Veteran
so how about hacking the firmware so that the shutter is used in live view? it could probably keep up with the speed since i think it's the mirror flipping that limits the speed in continuous still mode.
/matt
Wonder if the shutter would break after 30 minutes shooting at that speed. I don't think it's made to stand that for a long time, even if you manage to speed it up. But I might be wrong. Who's gonna try it?:evil:
I think the 5dm2 shutter is only rated to something like 100,000 cycles.That figures out to about an hour of continuous shooting. And I am pretty sure it wouldn't keep up with 30fps either, remember its a mechanical device and only a part of its job is opening and closing, its also got to cock somehow.
I think that something outside of the lens sounds most practical. If it will even work. But it should at least be relatively cheap and non-destructive to try... proof the concept. Maybe use a servo or stepper motor to drive a tin disk in circles and even if you can only sync it for a second you have proofed the concept cheaply.
I think that something outside of the lens sounds most practical. If it will even work. But it should at least be relatively cheap and non-destructive to try... proof the concept. Maybe use a servo or stepper motor to drive a tin disk in circles and even if you can only sync it for a second you have proofed the concept cheaply.
I shot a clip while a strobe went off.
http://www.vimeo.com/2568049
Most of the frame was exposed by the flash.
I started experimenting with shooting clips with the 5D2 at various shutter speeds, recording the strobe of my 20D going off.
Only while shooting with a 1/30 shutter were there any frames of the 5D2 video that were uniformly exposed by the strobe. About a third of the strobe bursts were essentially "synced" in this way; the rest of the strobe bursts were spread across 2 frames.
The fact that some of the frames in the video are evenly illuminated by the strobe when the 5D2 is shooting at 1/30th means that there does exist a moment where every pixel on the sensor is integrating simultaneously. Therefore, the 5D2 is capable of being globally shuttered.
The interesting thing about a strobe going off while shooting, like in the clip above, is this: you could be shaking the camera around like crazy, making the image look like a big swirling pool of mud, but then the strobe goes off, and you have one perfectly crisp frame.
http://www.vimeo.com/2568049
Most of the frame was exposed by the flash.
I started experimenting with shooting clips with the 5D2 at various shutter speeds, recording the strobe of my 20D going off.
Only while shooting with a 1/30 shutter were there any frames of the 5D2 video that were uniformly exposed by the strobe. About a third of the strobe bursts were essentially "synced" in this way; the rest of the strobe bursts were spread across 2 frames.
The fact that some of the frames in the video are evenly illuminated by the strobe when the 5D2 is shooting at 1/30th means that there does exist a moment where every pixel on the sensor is integrating simultaneously. Therefore, the 5D2 is capable of being globally shuttered.
The interesting thing about a strobe going off while shooting, like in the clip above, is this: you could be shaking the camera around like crazy, making the image look like a big swirling pool of mud, but then the strobe goes off, and you have one perfectly crisp frame.
joe 1008
Veteran
Have to correct myself: I was referring to the exposure mode of the 5D: First the 5D turns up the ISO, then opens the iris and as a last step lowers the shutter speed. So, together with a 1/30 shutter you also get the iris wide open and an ISO of 6400. The footage would be OVEREXPOSED.
Of course you could control the iris with a manual lens and dial down the ISO some stops after exposure lock. You also loose one stop due to the mecanical shutter which would be set at 1/60.
Finally: I think it would work even with the terribly stubborn exposure mode of the 5D.