Hey,
I'm about to use the camera to film some bands in the evening and think I've understood the sticky 'clean image' suggestions but wanted to clarify. The process is:
1 - AE lock
2 - F5/6-8, point at 60% brightness area
3 - LV mode
4 - Open iris as desired
- As I'm understanding it, this process is because you want to keep a decently low iso and a good shutter - 1/50th or 1/100th. I also am reading that the camera will only have a second or two to automatically adjust settings (aka iso/shutter) when you click into LV mode, before AE lock clicks in and it stops this adjusting.
Therefore, the point of AE lock is to stop the camera from auto adjusting shutter/iso, it's NOT to affect the aperture.
- The reason you put the camera to f5.6/8 is because if you enter LV mode w/ the camera at, say, f1.4, in the second or two it has before AE lock kicks in, it will rocked the shutter speed up to 1/500 or so, creating jaggered motion. Wheras if you hit it to 5.6/8, it will want to keep the shutter open for as long as possible to get a decent amount of light in.
Again, this is for the second or two before AE lock kicks in and stops the camera auto adjusting again.
- The reason why you point at an area of 60%ish brightness is so that when you enter LV mode the camera won't freak out and think the image is super dark and boost the iso massively before AE lock kicks in. Then, once it has, you can open up the iris as you want and make the scene brighter as you choose.
- Example - I have a 105mm f2.8 manual lens, with the camera in manual mode.
- I hit AE lock to engage this 'stop camera auto adjusting stuff' mode.
- I hit to 5.6. This is a medium fstop, not too bright, not too dark.
- I point at a well lit but not too bright area and hit LV mode.
- A second passes and the AE lock kicks in. In this time the camera should not have freaked out and tried to brighten or darken the image, which it may have done should your aperture have been set to v. dark or v. bright (f22 or f1.4).
- This means the camera doesn't a) boost the iso to brighten the image or b) lower the shutter to darken the image.
- Then, as AE lock kicks in, I have a low noise/iso, decent shutter speed image.
- Since it's a manual lens, I can then open or close the aperture according to what I want for the situation I'm in. Since AE is locked, this will not affect the shutter or the iso and cause the camera to auto compensate and rebalance exposure, instead I will be the intended look I want, be that a darker or brighter image.
- For future control one can add a ND filter or two to be able to further open the iris for great DOF control.
I think that's right?
Cheers,
A
I'm about to use the camera to film some bands in the evening and think I've understood the sticky 'clean image' suggestions but wanted to clarify. The process is:
1 - AE lock
2 - F5/6-8, point at 60% brightness area
3 - LV mode
4 - Open iris as desired
- As I'm understanding it, this process is because you want to keep a decently low iso and a good shutter - 1/50th or 1/100th. I also am reading that the camera will only have a second or two to automatically adjust settings (aka iso/shutter) when you click into LV mode, before AE lock clicks in and it stops this adjusting.
Therefore, the point of AE lock is to stop the camera from auto adjusting shutter/iso, it's NOT to affect the aperture.
- The reason you put the camera to f5.6/8 is because if you enter LV mode w/ the camera at, say, f1.4, in the second or two it has before AE lock kicks in, it will rocked the shutter speed up to 1/500 or so, creating jaggered motion. Wheras if you hit it to 5.6/8, it will want to keep the shutter open for as long as possible to get a decent amount of light in.
Again, this is for the second or two before AE lock kicks in and stops the camera auto adjusting again.
- The reason why you point at an area of 60%ish brightness is so that when you enter LV mode the camera won't freak out and think the image is super dark and boost the iso massively before AE lock kicks in. Then, once it has, you can open up the iris as you want and make the scene brighter as you choose.
- Example - I have a 105mm f2.8 manual lens, with the camera in manual mode.
- I hit AE lock to engage this 'stop camera auto adjusting stuff' mode.
- I hit to 5.6. This is a medium fstop, not too bright, not too dark.
- I point at a well lit but not too bright area and hit LV mode.
- A second passes and the AE lock kicks in. In this time the camera should not have freaked out and tried to brighten or darken the image, which it may have done should your aperture have been set to v. dark or v. bright (f22 or f1.4).
- This means the camera doesn't a) boost the iso to brighten the image or b) lower the shutter to darken the image.
- Then, as AE lock kicks in, I have a low noise/iso, decent shutter speed image.
- Since it's a manual lens, I can then open or close the aperture according to what I want for the situation I'm in. Since AE is locked, this will not affect the shutter or the iso and cause the camera to auto compensate and rebalance exposure, instead I will be the intended look I want, be that a darker or brighter image.
- For future control one can add a ND filter or two to be able to further open the iris for great DOF control.
I think that's right?
Cheers,
A