A lighting mystery needs solved

[robyne]

Hi everyone... Please help as no amount of books I am reading and hours testing can help as your experience can.....

I am wanting to purchase cool lights as I will be shooting at home and dont want to override circuits, etc., etc., As you'll see from the description of what i am working with its sort of complicated. I'm not sure what 3 point system wattage, spot lights etc to get. I will be shooting in wide screen (so I need to be careful with boom poles etc., getting in the way) using the dvx100 original with the anamorphic lens and the shooting environment is as follows:

*Approx space is 13-17' wide X 13" deep (however, I have an additional 15-20 feet of open space in front of this area)
*35' ceilings
*High ceilings have with 75 watt sylvania flood lights with 120 volt and is controlled via dimmer switches

*All walls have a faux painting containing tan, gold, and cream colors--no white anywhere
*3 dome windows with a red brick overlay around the windows--prefer windows to stay open to show greenery from outside. The larger dome window is directly behind the subject.
*Dark wood cabinetry + dark wood floors
*5' 6" feet of background space behind subject (person) which includes the countertop that has 2" cream tiles atop + chrome double sink
*In front of subject is an 7-8' wide X 4' deep dark colored (dark cocoa bean) oak wood counter with 36" black stove in middle. NOTE: There is a fan above this unit where i could potentially hide or hang things from for some angle shots.. not sure as may get in shot.. will have to test but thought worth mentioning.
*Both cabinetry in background behind and to the side of the subject and on sides has space atop for lights (6+ above the subject's head)
*There will be windows from behind and on the sides of the camera. I can always close the honeycomb blinds though.
*Fridge, Oven located on side of wall and stove are all black in color

Potential problems:

*No white walls to bounce light off--could use a soft sheet set up?
*Want to stay away from tungsten lights
*Ceilings have with 75 watt sylvania flood lights with 120 volt and is controlled via dimmer switches--should i turn them off completely
*Background windows with daylight coming through--could have a light coming through from the outside?
*Only 5'6" feet of space behind subject--is this enough space for backlight to show depth/space behind subject--how can i increase the depth

Goal:

*Purchase a 3 point lighting kit (I want to purchase separate pieces if possible.. no kits) containing all fluorescent lights that will brighten up this space and give depth.
*Make inviting to watch.. without overcasts or blindspots in an environment with many textures and colors
*Tone down any kitchen gadgets used--silver mostly
*Show larger depth behind subject
*Have light come through windows

I know there is more to note however, Im getting dizzy with what i have already written.. and oh yea this video is far cooking instructional's. I will be doing a lot more with this video... but i'll save that for another day. If it will be of benefit i can always take a pic of the area...

Your lighting experience is appreciated and definitely needed!!! Robyne

 

[Oynk]

That's a lot of description. Very hard to visualize. Do you have a photo?

 

[robyne]

yea i will post a pic.. but will need a few hours to get posted.

 

[robyne]

Pics

Pics

Ok here it goes.. if some pics don't help i can take out (just so i dont take up to much bandwith) and insert others if you think others would be important in aid of helping make a decision on the lighting. I hope this helps some!!

#1 pic is the front view of the area and sun is around 12:30 noon. You can see the area over cabinetry (where the greenery is and the same goes to the side but that cant be seen as well.. this is where i can put extra lights. The 2 side dome windows have honeycome blinds down. The cooking area is not complete yet thus alot smaller than what it will be # 7-8' wide. Will be complete next week.
#2 pic is color of floor (wont be in video but it does absorb some color of sun coming through main window)
#3 closeup of main window/sun around 6:00 pm (no lights are on)
#4 pic is celing with lights on (color is not white rather a dark cream) and could hang a light on/above fan.. but could be in the way
#5 pic is pic of side walls with brick... showing different colors/textures
#6 pic is a close up brick color
#7 pic is a pic of counter top in background... showing different colors/textures
#8 pic is a closeup of main window/sun around 2:30 pm (no lights are on)

 

[Cool Lights]

Okay, lets give this a try.

1. My main problem with the window there is its directly behind the person and waiving plants may have a tendency to draw viewers eyes away from the real action or you when you're speaking. In addition you'll perhaps get a daylight backlighting effect that will make your front lighting a bit harder with just fluorescents. I personally would look at adding an ND gel to the window to tone down this backlighting effect you're going to get there. Just buy a roll, cut appropriately and use a spray water bottle to spray a bit of water on, then apply the gel individually to the panes.

2. Turn off the overhead floodlights. Their color temp may be close to 3200K but its a potential problem you don't need. Use daylight fluorescent 5600K color temp given that you won't be using anything else. Might as well use daylight since there's no tungsten.

3). I'd have something like a 4x55 unit off to the right of the main camera and a 2x55 unit off to the left of the main camera. Both of these on stands for easy positioning and moving out of the way when you're finished for the day. I just don't see that many opportunities for hanging lights in your house there. Not impossible, but a pain. Main camera in the middle where the camera was when it took the photo of the window. Of course, it would be nice to have a couple of other cameras too. Personally, I would go for a live switch on this as it captures all the action without need for so many pickups later. But this does require that your actions are well scripted and rehearsed. In my opinion though, any video of this kind should be scripted.

4). Personally I think you need more color in the background. What I mainly see is green and brown. Perhaps look at some other creative ways to work some colors that you like into the background. This takes some thought to find something that's tasteful but still helps make the video more "colorful".

5). I would normally use something else like an HMI, but given your instructions for using only fluorescent, I'd have a couple of 2x55 units overhead and at 45 degree angles for backlighting the walls placed at an angle where you won't see their reflection in the window(s). Perhaps these could be on stands. By the way, will you keep the blinds drawn on the other two windows? You said you would prefer to see greenery so I'm not sure why you had the blinds drawn on two of the window. If open, add the ND gels to those too.

6). It'd be nice to have some backlighting for the subject (you?). A fluorescent unit placed up where I see those plants above one of the left or right windows (or both even). Look at perhaps adding some subtle gel to these lights to play with color on your hair. Nothing too bright though. Fluorescent isn't super for this but you weren't wanting to use anything else. Again, personally, I might have a tendency to use a low wattage HMI for this backlighting.

If I think of anything else I'll post another comment or two. This can be interactive though if you or someone else chimes in. Hope this helps!

 

[robyne]

Okay, lets give this a try.

To try and keep this thread easy to follow I will put my feedback in bold. Hopefully it wont look to wacky on the screen...

Thanks so much Richard.. your thoughts and ideas are helping me organize my ideas...without your help I could possibly end up still trying to figure this lighting thing out until the end of the year....

1. My main problem with the window there is its directly behind the person and waiving plants may have a tendency to draw viewers eyes away from the real action or you when you're speaking. In addition you'll perhaps get a daylight backlighting effect that will make your front lighting a bit harder with just fluorescents. I personally would look at adding an ND gel to the window to tone down this backlighting effect you're going to get there. Just buy a roll, cut appropriately and

I have a pack of like 30+ gels (knowing these arent sheets.. but great for testing) and was originally planning on going with ctb or cto for the window... any other ideas on colors in which i will want to experiment with for the back window...

2. Turn off the overhead floodlights. Their color temp may be close to 3200K but its a potential problem you don't need. Use daylight fluorescent 5600K color temp given that you won't be using anything else. Might as well use daylight since there's no tungsten.

Fluorescents like the cheap over the counter fluorescent type i can get at home depot/lowe's or another type of fluorescent lighting?

3). I'd have something like a 4x55 unit off to the right of the main camera and a 2x55 unit off to the left of the main camera. Both of these on stands for easy positioning and moving out of the way when you're finished for the day. I just don't see that many opportunities for hanging lights in your house there. Not impossible, but a pain. Main camera in the middle where the camera was when it took the photo of the window. Of course, it would be nice to have a couple of other cameras too. Personally, I would go for a live switch on this as it captures all the action without need for so many pickups later. But this does require that your actions are well scripted and rehearsed. In my opinion though, any video of this kind should be scripted.

I totally agree with the scripting.. but as the creativity is running during the shoot i am certain there will be additional eye catching shots. I think i can do both without too much wasted shots. Is the dvrack the best way to go for the auto capturing? But this makes me think about probably something that should go on another post and that is what size approx hard drive, ram, raid 0 should i get for the computer.

When you speak of 4X55 is that four of 55 wattage bulbs, etc.?

4). Personally I think you need more color in the background. What I mainly see is green and brown. Perhaps look at some other creative ways to work some colors that you like into the background. This takes some thought to find something that's tasteful but still helps make the video more "colorful".

I am in total agreement.. foods, flowers, bowls, plates and other gadgets will help support this.. not to mention talent clothing. A few extra pics on the wall, perhaps, etc., etc., Good one too, thanks as i will specifically go out of my way to make sure color is there.

5). I would normally use something else like an HMI, but given your instructions for using only fluorescent, I'd have a couple of 2x55 units overhead and at 45 degree angles for backlighting the walls placed at an angle where you won't see their reflection in the window(s). Perhaps these could be on stands. By the way, will you keep the blinds drawn on the other two windows? You said you would prefer to see greenery so I'm not sure why you had the blinds drawn on two of the window. If open, add the ND gels to those too.

I can use HMI (what about wattage as i think they will need to be rather high and out of the pic)--and how much potential trouble will i have with two different or three different lighting temps going on... I know i could use more gels, scrims, etc but i thought i learned somewhere the more of these i use the more pix noise in the end result.. Is my mind even thinking right?

Yea I honestly don't know why i had the other 2 down.. other than i am leaning on the fence with this lighting thing. I sort of thought the greenery would look nice (After cleaning up some of the brown--hot summer) but then i thought the outdoor lighting may be an issue... i was even thinking of having a lighting system shooting in from the outside. But then again....

6). It'd be nice to have some backlighting for the subject (you?). A fluorescent unit placed up where I see those plants above one of the left or right windows (or both even). Look at perhaps adding some subtle gel to these lights to play with color on your hair. Nothing too bright though. Fluorescent isn't super for this but you weren't wanting to use anything else. Again, personally, I might have a tendency to use a low wattage HMI for this backlighting.

I will be the personality working with the talent (I really do look forward to the challenges and embracing those i am currently facing) I can use HMI for the backlights but will have to have something up higher as Im afraid those lights may get in the shot.. I will practise. What wattage of HMI would you go with for the backlight?

If I think of anything else I'll post another comment or two. This can be interactive though if you or someone else chimes in. Hope this helps!

WOW.. this has helped greatly... my thoughts arent as scrambled as they were prior. I know there is still a lot of work ahead.. and with you and everyone's input i can do this. This is an ongoing project so I hope you and others will continue to provide support and ideas. I too will post a few more pics of the progress as i move forward. Hopefully this post will help others too.

Best Regards,
Robyne

 

[monte]

The HMIs should work fine with the balanced Kinos that you would be using for fill

As far as wattage, I think if you snagged a 1200 and put a halfsie scrim on it, you would be fine as far as backlight is concerned, although that still might be a bit hot, so make sure you get several fulls/halfsies just incase - but it is always better to have more light to work with/cut down, than snag a lower wattage light and realize it aint enough.

 

[robyne]

Great ideas Monte... thanks!! My mind is at a standstill right now... much to think about... things like the different temps for each light, kino lights (not sure), ...but i will be back with more thoughts....

 

[Cool Lights]

My comments are in Orange Below yours:Thanks so much Richard.. your thoughts and ideas are helping me organize my ideas...without your help I could possibly end up still trying to figure this lighting thing out until the end of the year....

Yes it's fine to bounce things back and forth.

I have a pack of like 30+ gels (knowing these arent sheets.. but great for testing) and was originally planning on going with ctb or cto for the window... any other ideas on colors in which i will want to experiment with for the back window...

The reason I picked "ND" was to effectively nullify the window as a real light source and relegate it to nothing other than a portion of your "set". the pack won't do. You need rolls of ND to cover those windows and to really do this thing right. You'll have something that looks far more professional afterwards.

Fluorescents like the cheap over the counter fluorescent type i can get at home depot/lowe's or another type of fluorescent lighting?

That's fine. I was referring to ones built for video but DIY works too. I've certainly done my share of DIY fluorescent lighting too ;-)

http://www.coollights.biz/videos-c-21.html

Just get some daylight high cri 32w T8 4 foot tubes (like sylvania or phillips types they usually carry and an electronic ballasted 2 or 4 light fixture) and/or daylight CFL spirals in 30 or 40 watt range (like home depot n:visions) and sprinkle them around.

I totally agree with the scripting.. but as the creativity is running during the shoot i am certain there will be additional eye catching shots. I think i can do both without too much wasted shots. Is the dvrack the best way to go for the auto capturing? But this makes me think about probably something that should go on another post and that is what size approx hard drive, ram, raid 0 should i get for the computer.

You could use DVrack but I was more thinking about a live switched/multi camera shoot which is my preferred method for making these kinds of videos. You'd have three or so cameras and a live switcher and record either to DVRack or a DV tape. I use a Newtek VT4 which they call a "tv studio in a box" and it really is. Has a virtual switcher that you use on the screen, virtual monitors, inputs for up to 8 cameras, preview bus, live bus, hard disk recorder, editing solution, lightwave, etc.

What I end up with is a finished product that's about 80 to 90 % complete and just requires adding any pickups that were missed, an opener, closer and credits afterwards. Really reduces the time of editing later. It's more complex for sure but I love it as it keeps people on their toes, does require everyone knowing what they're doing and a great deal of planning. Just think of it as real time editing. I pick my shots as I see ones that are appropriate on my preview monitor and use the switcher to switch that camera to the "Live" bus which is being recorded. Much of network and local television is produced this way everyday. Talk shows, cooking shows, news, etc. -- they're all live switched shoots that are edited in real time except for the occasional things that need to be edited in after the fact. For your cooking video, it will lend a feeling of continuity and flow much more than stopping and starting and constantly picking up.

When you speak of 4X55 is that four of 55 wattage bulbs, etc.?

This is the kind of thing I was referring to:

http://www.coollights.biz/cl455-cool-lights-watt-fluorescent-video-soft-light-p-31.html

I'm out of stock right now but something like that with about 800w worth of power. We have the 2x55's though:

http://www.coollights.biz/cl255-cool-lights-watt-fluorescent-video-soft-light-p-30.html

But as I said before, DIY is fine. I was just using these as examples of what I would use for wattage levels. The real reason to use products like mine is that you know the ballasts are higher quality and high frequency output and meant for video use and they have light control like barndoors which are lacking in most DIY off the shelf solutions like the shop lights for instance. You're just going to have these big 4 foot tubes and the only control you'll have is whatever flagging you do yourself with foam core or whatever. Also, occasionally you can find an electronic ballast in one of these Home Depot specials that's not quite high enough frequency and can cause flicker at some shutter speeds/frame rates. If you stick with the T8 type fixtures that say they have electronic ballasts though, usually this will be good enough.

I am in total agreement.. foods, flowers, bowls, plates and other gadgets will help support this.. not to mention talent clothing. A few extra pics on the wall, perhaps, etc., etc., Good one too, thanks as i will specifically go out of my way to make sure color is there.

Not too cluttered though. Just get some color in there one way or another but not too busy. Like I said before, we don't want to take peoples eyes away too much from the action.

I can use HMI (what about wattage as i think they will need to be rather high and out of the pic)--and how much potential trouble will i have with two different or three different lighting temps going on... I know i could use more gels, scrims, etc but i thought i learned somewhere the more of these i use the more pix noise in the end result.. Is my mind even thinking right?

HMI will match the daylight fluorescents as long as your fluorescents are around 5600K to 6000K and the HMI is in the same range as most of them are. Osram HMI is 6000K. Many of the 4 foot daylight tubes are in that range too. My fluorescent products are all 5600K. I was thinking a 400w or 575w would be good enough for what you're doing and also considering my direction to ND gel the windows which takes them out of the picture as a light source.


Yea I honestly don't know why i had the other 2 down.. other than i am leaning on the fence with this lighting thing. I sort of thought the greenery would look nice (After cleaning up some of the brown--hot summer) but then i thought the outdoor lighting may be an issue... i was even thinking of having a lighting system shooting in from the outside. But then again....

If you use the ND gel, you make the window not so dominant which it shouldn't be. Just part of the set like I said before.

I will be the personality working with the talent (I really do look forward to the challenges and embracing those i am currently facing) I can use HMI for the backlights but will have to have something up higher as Im afraid those lights may get in the shot.. I will practise. What wattage of HMI would you go with for the backlight?

Ah. For some reason I thought you were the talent. So you're the director then. Just use 400w or 575w and you should be fine.

WOW.. this has helped greatly... my thoughts arent as scrambled as they were prior. I know there is still a lot of work ahead.. and with you and everyone's input i can do this. This is an ongoing project so I hope you and others will continue to provide support and ideas. I too will post a few more pics of the progress as i move forward. Hopefully this post will help others too.

Keep us posted!

 

[robyne]

Richard says in previous post, "My comments are in Orange Below yours:" Robyne responds, "I will respond to your orange posts in black, bold"

Yes it's fine to bounce things back and forth.

Your suggestions are helping immensly.. I appreciate your time and input... Thank you so much!!

The reason I picked "ND" was to effectively nullify the window as a real light source and relegate it to nothing other than a portion of your "set". the pack won't do. You need rolls of ND to cover those windows and to really do this thing right. You'll have something that looks far more professional afterwards.

Ok, this makes sense... Do you prefer a certain grade of ND over another? And Richard, I will attempt both approaches too, in your opinion do you think its better to tape the ND flat up against the window glass or to drape over?

That's fine. I was referring to ones built for video but DIY works too. I've certainly done my share of DIY fluorescent lighting too ;-)

http://www.coollights.biz/videos-c-21.html

Just get some daylight high cri 32w T8 4 foot tubes (like sylvania or phillips types they usually carry and an electronic ballasted 2 or 4 light fixture) and/or daylight CFL spirals in 30 or 40 watt range (like home depot n:visions) and sprinkle them around.

Your site is so awesome!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am definitely going to order your DIY DVD. I don't know if I'll ever do any DIY but having access to your DIY lighting DVD will be an added benefit and resource. How long will you have it at that price?

Is there a specific light and electric ballast that would work better than the home depot types? Will I need an electric ballast when purchasing lights through you?

You could use DVrack but I was more thinking about a live switched/multi camera shoot which is my preferred method for making these kinds of videos. You'd have three or so cameras and a live switcher and record either to DVRack or a DV tape. I use a Newtek VT4 which they call a "tv studio in a box" and it really is. Has a virtual switcher that you use on the screen, virtual monitors, inputs for up to 8 cameras, preview bus, live bus, hard disk recorder, editing solution, lightwave, etc.
Great that you mentioned this product. I have been looking at this unit http://biwaymedia.com/system/NewTekSystems.htm and its available here in Houston. Do you know if these can be easily upgraded? I would love to get the Xeon.. but the price is steep.

What is your opinion on its' editing system; is it a big learning curve?

This is the kind of thing I was referring to:

http://www.coollights.biz/cl455-cool...ight-p-31.html

I'm out of stock right now but something like that with about 800w worth of power. We have the 2x55's though:

http://www.coollights.biz/cl255-cool...ight-p-30.html

I love these light and will be ordering them from you. Can you tell me when you may be getting in the 4X55's or is there an alternative?

Not too cluttered though. Just get some color in there one way or another but not too busy. Like I said before, we don't want to take peoples eyes away too much from the action.

Another great reminder!!

HMI will match the daylight fluorescents as long as your fluorescents are around 5600K to 6000K and the HMI is in the same range as most of them are. Osram HMI is 6000K. Many of the 4 foot daylight tubes are in that range too. My fluorescent products are all 5600K. I was thinking a 400w or 575w would be good enough for what you're doing and also considering my direction to ND gel the windows which takes them out of the picture as a light source.

Do you think it would be best to stick with just HMI's and ND versus adding these to fluorescents? Im beginning to think the HMI's will be easier to handle. I want to definitely stay away from Tungsten as #1 they are too hot and #2 in my opinion, the DVX has a smooth enough color where too much tungsten will only make it smoother... again this is just my opinion.

If you use the ND gel, you make the window not so dominant which it shouldn't be. Just part of the set like I said before.

I totally agree.

Just use 400w or 575w and you should be fine.

Would this be the wattage i should stick with for all lights; backlight, fill, etc.? Or do you think i should go with a higher wattage and then turn them down on set?
Keep us posted!

Im now beginning to get a grasp on how to light this location. Thanks for that!! All I need now are a few more specs on the lighting and i'll be ready to make a purchase. Can't wait to get started. In the meantime I will going back to your website for some additional reading and research...
Thanks again Richard.. you are certainly appreciated.

 

[Cool Lights]

My comments in white. This is a pretty colorful thread now...

Your suggestions are helping immensly.. I appreciate your time and input... Thank you so much!!

No problem.

Ok, this makes sense... Do you prefer a certain grade of ND over another? And Richard, I will attempt both approaches too, in your opinion do you think its better to tape the ND flat up against the window glass or to drape over?

Well, if you do it from the inside, it needs to be unobtrusive where you cut it to the size of the pane and use a spray bottle of water on the window and then just stick the gel to the window with the water. If you do it from the outside, you could just cover the hole window and tape it up there as long as its secure and won't be blown away by the wind. As to which grade, with LEE type, there are 4: you have ND .15 or 1/2 stop, ND .3 or 1 which reduces 1 stop, ND .6 or 2 which reduces 2 stops and ND .9 or 3 which reduces 3 stops.

http://www.leefilters.com/LP1.asp?PageID=34

If you didn't know it, the reason people use these in this manner is to not change the color. In effect you're just making it look darker outside of the windows without changing color. Given the pictures you showed, I doubt the sun is ever streaming directly in there thanks to the fence so perhaps the ND .3 would be good enough. Maybe someone else would chime in with an opinion about that.

Your site is so awesome!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I am definitely going to order your DIY DVD. I don't know if I'll ever do any DIY but having access to your DIY lighting DVD will be an added benefit and resource. How long will you have it at that price?

Should be at that price for a while. It's not specifically a DVD on lighting although it does have some demos of how to use lights that are built on it. I would love to do a lighting DVD at some point in the future but I'm so wrapped up in product development and so many things to deliver there I can't even think about videos for my VLOG at the moment.
Is there a specific light and electric ballast that would work better than the home depot types? Will I need an electric ballast when purchasing lights through you?

I have a DIY fixture thats a 6x55 called the CL-655PB which requires electronic ballasts but the other models are all ready to go like the CL-255.

Well the issue is that different home depots may carry different brands of fixtures. That's why it's hard to recommend a specific brand. When I bought my first fluorescent lights, I went into the ceiling fixture department and bought a model that would take 4 tubes and specifically said it had an electronic ballast. I got lucky as the ballast was fine. You see its kind of a crap shoot with these lights as you just don't know in advance. The good thing though is you can box it back up if its a flickering offender and take it back and try another one. Just get a 2 or 4 light model, a 25' extension cord, and take it home. Cut the female end off the extension cord, strip the outer jacket without damaging the wires, strip the individual wires and hook up the cord inside the light. Try it out with your camera at shutter speed(s) and frame rate you'll be using for the video. If no flicker you've got a winner and can keep it. What I further did was buy some PVC pipe and made a frame that fit around and bolted to the back of the unit and added rigidity. I then adapted the light to a worklight stand so it was convenient to move it around and keep it pointed at something. Here's some photos from the DVD showing this first project I did. By the way, I also added two more sockets and another ballast to it to make it a six light unit:

Here you can see how I attached it to the stand so it was fairly easy to take off. Also attached at the bottom too so it wouldn't wobble.

You can see the light I chose was a model probably meant for the kitchen and had a wood grain effect on the end caps and also came with a prismatic diffusion panel cover that you could leave on or remove.

Great that you mentioned this product. I have been looking at this unit http://biwaymedia.com/system/NewTekSystems.htm and its available here in Houston. Do you know if these can be easily upgraded? I would love to get the Xeon.. but the price is steep.

Yes absolutely. The tricaster is all you need for what you'll be doing. The main difference between that and what I have is it only handles 3 cameras. But that's already pretty darn good! And for under $5000 you're still getting the TV studio in a box with many of the same features I have on the more expensive system. Pretty soon they'll have a Tricaster HD too which will handle something like 3 or 4 HD camera inputs. You might check with them to see what the ETA of that system is.

What is your opinion on its' editing system; is it a big learning curve?

The editing system is fine although I like Vegas better. I use vegas to do complicated stuff like an opener or closer, but I'd use the tricaster or Toaster editor to finally assemble all the pieces and render the finished product given that I'm 90 to 95% already finished with the job when I'm using this kind of setup. It's the switcher that's the main thing so you can digitally capture your action mostly in realtime with 3 cameras (analog or DV inputs to switcher). I'd have one fixed camera in the center on a tripod/dolly and two roving cameras that can move around on the left and right and get different angles. If you have competent camera people who know their boundaries and what they should be focusing on, you can shuffle among the 3 cameras through the preview bus and pick the next shot to go to the live/recorded bus. I've even done something like this without a headphone system to direct the cameras once and it turned out great because the camera people were good. If they're not great, you may need a headphone system to direct them better. The good ones will be watching closely what's going on and sense where they should be and what they should be focusing on. On the switcher, a virtual fader allows you to transition from one shot to the next with either cut, fade or a DVE transition of some kind like a wipe or other complicated transition. All this is being recorded to disk so you're already ready to edit when you're finished with no other capture necessary!

Do you think it would be best to stick with just HMI's and ND versus adding these to fluorescents? Im beginning to think the HMI's will be easier to handle. I want to definitely stay away from Tungsten as #1 they are too hot and #2 in my opinion, the DVX has a smooth enough color where too much tungsten will only make it smoother... again this is just my opinion.

Either way, you'll still need some soft front lighting for the talent but with the HMI you'll need to add the diffusion and fluorescent already has it built in. Of course, HMI lights are still hot but not as hot as tungsten and the light that comes from them is a much cooler light for sure. A 200w HMI gives you close to 1000w worth of light so it's definitely more efficient too.

Would this be the wattage i should stick with for all lights; backlight, fill, etc.? Or do you think i should go with a higher wattage and then turn them down on set?

Yes, if they have dimmers so you can tone them down as necessary. A 200w may be fine but if you get the larger wattages with dimmers then you have more light if needed.

Im now beginning to get a grasp on how to light this location. Thanks for that!! All I need now are a few more specs on the lighting and i'll be ready to make a purchase. Can't wait to get started. In the meantime I will going back to your website for some additional reading and research...
Thanks again Richard.. you are certainly appreciated.

Glad to help. In a couple more months we should have some lower cost HMI's on the site and hopefully our fluorescent models will all be back in stock too.

 

[robyne]

Richard, thanks for our conversation last week... I learned alot!! As you know i went out of town and recently arrived back in town earlier today. I just looked at all your DYI pics and all I can say is, "WOW.. I wish I was that handy"!! Please keep me posted as how your lights continue to progress.

 

[Cool Lights]

Will do. ;-)