andrewaldenmiller
Member
Native ISOs still in effect
5D3 Native ISOs
- Thread starter andrewaldenmiller
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Samuel H
Major Contributor
somebody had to do this, and you did, thanks a lot for that
but I never understood how a test that's carried out with the body cap on can be useful for anything
from my understanding, with the old cameras, 160x was a digital pull from a 200x image, that's why clipped blacks look cleaner, but it has its downside too: 1/3 stop less DR, and not-so-nice highlight rolloff (i.e. it's like overexposing a bit and then pulling down in post; great when you have no DR constraints, but beware of the downsides because there are some)
but I never understood how a test that's carried out with the body cap on can be useful for anything
from my understanding, with the old cameras, 160x was a digital pull from a 200x image, that's why clipped blacks look cleaner, but it has its downside too: 1/3 stop less DR, and not-so-nice highlight rolloff (i.e. it's like overexposing a bit and then pulling down in post; great when you have no DR constraints, but beware of the downsides because there are some)
ditto
The most important thing is that the image is correctly exposed using the correct ISO for the aperture/shutter that you have chosen. If there is really any difference in noise it's really not worth bothering about as you are far more likely to end up with a degraded image by under or overexposing by skipping ISO100/200/400/800/1600 & then pushing the image in post.
andrewaldenmiller
Member
This test is useful in determining if the phenomenon of Native ISOs still exists with this camera. It's certainly not comprehensive as noise is the only factor it considers. You're absolutely right that there are other factors to consider when choosing your ISO - especially with this camera because the noise is already very low. These other factors need to be looked at, as do the new choices for high ISO digital noise reduction, and as always we need to consider it all with regard to the given scene we are shooting.
I think you're also right about the digital pull, although I can't remember where I read about that... anybody got a link?
dustylense
Veteran
There are native ISO's, but I've been shooting all over the place with ISO and not seeing any GOLDEN rule for sticking to the multiples of 160,320. Id, rather have the flexibility in the ISO's to nail exposure and not worry about a bit a noise, if any.
Samuel H
Major Contributor
I don't have a link, but I have a mail from a1ex (ML developer) explaining this to me and sending me a couple of sample tests
you can make your own test the following way: shoot with ISO 200; then shoot with same settings and ISO 160; bring to editor; pull ISO200 footage .33 EV down; add curve that follows 45º line and then lifts highlights a bit (to ensure that clipped highlights stay at 100% white); it should look exactly like the ISO 160 footage
(as I said before, this doesn't mean 160x ISOs are not useful or should be avoided; if you're not DR-constrained, they will lead to cleaner images, because you're overexposing -letting more light hit the sensor-; but you're sacrificing some DR, and you'll have harsher highlight rolloff)
andrewaldenmiller
Member
Thanks Samuel!
squig
Veteran
I've de-clicked the aperture on my glass. If you've got nikon ai/ai-s it's pretty easy to do and doesn't slip.