2K bulb in 1K?

S

snipe2k5

Member
Hi,

Just wondering if I can install a 2000 watt BVW lamp into my Altman 75Q 1000 watt fresnel. I took the fixture to my professor's house to have the reflector assembly fixed up, and we both noticed the socket said 2500W 250V. I don't know if he took that into consideration but he did say I could install a 2K bulb with the same socket no problem. He mentions he sometimes puts a 1K bulb in a 750w ellipsoidal or even a 500w fresnel.

I was going to rewire it since the cables are old, but is this safe? I don't want anything to overheat and catch fire.. Thanks
 
Just make sure all the wiring is the proper gauge so it can handle it and you should be ok as long as everything (that includes the socket, switch, plug, etc) is rated for that current... The other trick is going to be finding a 2k bulb that will fit that socket.

That said, the fixture is only rated for 1000w, so you are doing so at your own risk.

With the price of used 2K moles being relatively inexpensive, I would just consider getting a used 2K and keeping your 1K as it is... Then you can have both a 1K and a 2K and not have to worry about making sure your fixtures can handle it.
 
nothing said:
It's likely to overheat often if you do that. Yes, it could be dangerous.
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This^^^
Take a look at how much more ventilation there is on a baby junior vs a 1k baby, even though the lamp housing is in essence the same size. There's just barely enough paneling to prevent spill coming directly from the filament on a baby junior, but a 1k is completely enclosed. So maybe if you drill some holes in the body you could safely lamp it at 2k, but only rewiring it won't make it safe.
 
Oliver Rush said:
Just make sure all the wiring is the proper gauge so it can handle it and you should be ok as long as everything (that includes the socket, switch, plug, etc) is rated for that current... The other trick is going to be finding a 2k bulb that will fit that socket.

That said, the fixture is only rated for 1000w, so you are doing so at your own risk.

With the price of used 2K moles being relatively inexpensive, I would just consider getting a used 2K and keeping your 1K as it is... Then you can have both a 1K and a 2K and not have to worry about making sure your fixtures can handle it.
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Well, does the socket's printed rating seem like it can support 2K? It does not have an ON switch, just 3 screws for the power cable to be attached.. I planned to use 12 AWG.

Yes, while it is true I can have a Mole or similar for around $300, having a 2k bulb in this fixture would give me more versatility. It would make it my second 2K, and I can keep 1K's in the other 2 fixtures giving me a nice selection of either 2 2K's or 2 1K's.

I know it is only U.L. listed for 1000W according to the manual but I just want to know if I am wasting my time buying the lamp (Very readily available at $30). Maybe a CWZ 1500 Watt lamp would be safer? It's only a little more expensive and has the same P40s mogul prefocus base.


Moseph said:
This^^^
Take a look at how much more ventilation there is on a baby junior vs a 1k baby, even though the lamp housing is in essence the same size. There's just barely enough paneling to prevent spill coming directly from the filament on a baby junior, but a 1k is completely enclosed. So maybe if you drill some holes in the body you could safely lamp it at 2k, but only rewiring it won't make it safe.
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So you're saying drilling holes might make this possible? I see, but where would be good places to drill them? There are probably like 20 or so 1/4'' holes drilled in the back of the fixture, and the top I'm guessing like 50?
 
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I'm not familiar with the fixture you have. I was only throwing that out there half serious, but if you can figure out a way to vent it some more, you might get away with lamping it at 2k.
 
Well, here's some pictures.. I suppose I'll just drill even more holes between the holes and avoid drilling the sides and give it a try. I'll just be sure to have a fire extinguisher nearby at all times just incase. I will rewire the base with newer, thinner type 12awg wire.

http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/jumoke777/_1050375.jpg
http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/jumoke777/_1050373.jpg
http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/jumoke777/_1050378.jpg
http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/jumoke777/_1050379.jpg
 
While you could rewire it safely heat would be the big factor. Just drilling holes might increase the ventilation but would definitely add a lot of light leaks and chances are good you'll wind up with a cracked lens. Just spring for a used 2k.
 
If you are putting a higher wattage bulb in a fixture, you have to look at everything involved in the circuit.

The socket itself seems to be rated for a higher wattage, but as previously stated, the wiring may not be. Same with the switch and the enclosure.

Let me research the model and manufacturer. Do not make the mods until I or someone else gets back to you. If it is not safe, there is the risk of fire and electrical damage.
 
If the socket, switch (non-applicable in this case), wiring, and enclosure are up to par, it should work O.K. as you say. My professor seemed alot more confident about this than I did.. If possible, I was going to show it to an electrician for further inquiry but I don't know any personally..
 
You have to remember the old saying about those that teach versus those that do, when taking advice from a professor. My film school professors, in hindsight, were some of the biggest idiots I have ever met.

As I stated before - not safe.
 
I am a former commercial industrial Journeyman electrician (IBEW 477). A circuit can only handle so much amperage. If you increase the wattage on the bulb, the fixture may be drawing more power than it is designed to handle. You may find the cord overheating if it is undersized for the new current flow. If the housing is not rated for double the wattage, it could overheat...... Least case....you blow fuses/CB's. Worst case: FIRE

If you cannot be absolutely sure you can modify it safely........don't. Just changing a bulb could have bad results.
 
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alright, I value my safety so I'll keep the 1000 watt lamps instead.

Next, I've got to build a 240-120v step down transformer for household dryer plugs.. That way I'll be able to get 60 amps easily from the three-phase source.. I have to consult some electricians personally on this.
 
the plug in my house is a 3 prong 240v which draws from two 30a 120v sources (hot,hot,ground) which, if used with a step down transformer would allow 60a at 120v. Same for the stove plug in the kitchen.

These dryers run on 240v three phase power which draws from two hot 110v or 120v single phase sources... Maybe that's what you mean by 2-phase
 
What country are you in? Are you trying to get more light out of the same power? 240V lamps will put out less light on 110V, 110V lamps will draw more current to put out the same light. You won't get nothing for nothing. My dad recently got 3-phase and it required a new transformer mounted on the street pole, I don't think it's going to be something you can access yourself.

Mains power is not a toy and it may even be illegal in your country to mess with it (including the use of bulbs not rated for your appliance). If there was a cheap and easy freebie everyone would be doing it. Mistakes lead to destruction of appliances, electrocution and fire. Qualified electricians are NOT hard to find as people on this forum keep claiming. They are found under 'Electrician' in the business phone directory, advertise in local papers and have phone numbers on their vans which you drive pass every day. They do not work for free is what I think people mean by I can't find one. Of course not, but for the call out fee you generally get an hour of their time and a quote. Beats getting advice from people you don't know on the internet.
 
snipe2k5 said:
the plug in my house is a 3 prong 240v which draws from two 30a 120v sources (hot,hot,ground) which, if used with a step down transformer would allow 60a at 120v. Same for the stove plug in the kitchen.
These dryers run on 240v three phase power which draws from two hot 110v or 120v single phase sources... Maybe that's what you mean by 2-phase
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No, I mean two phase because like you said, there are two 120v legs that combine to 240v. I really have no idea where you think a third phase comes in. You can get a transformer to convert this to 120v OR just use 240v lamps. Ballasts for large HMI's should be able to take 240v as well.
 
That lamp is not for use in US domestic electrical applications. Wrong voltage and wiring setup. Your professor should know this.
 
Moseph said:
No, I mean two phase because like you said, there are two 120v legs that combine to 240v. I really have no idea where you think a third phase comes in. You can get a transformer to convert this to 120v OR just use 240v lamps. Ballasts for large HMI's should be able to take 240v as well.
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well I'm not an expert and I definitely plan to get some professional opinions in person as well, but three phase power should apply here, not "two phase". There are 2 legs and 1 ground (no neutral). The 3 currents need to alternate with eachother in a three phase system, that's why there's 3 wire's coming from the telephone pole into the breaker box. The 3rd neutral acts as part of the current and this is what allows lower voltages to be used (120v). Using a heavy duty transformer should give an effective amperage of 60 at 120 volts after stepping down the two 120v poles at 240v. I have no desire to run 240v fixtures, id rather step down to 120v using 120v lamps.. I would not run electronic HMI ballasts, but instead I wonder if magnetic ones would be safe (for upto a 4k, or even 6k?)
 
snipe2k5 said:
well I'm not an expert and I definitely plan to get some professional opinions in person as well, but three phase power should apply here, not "two phase". There are 2 legs and 1 ground (no neutral). The 3 currents need to alternate with eachother in a three phase system, that's why there's 3 wire's coming from the telephone pole into the breaker box. The 3rd neutral acts as part of the current and this is what allows lower voltages to be used (120v). Using a heavy duty transformer should give an effective amperage of 60 at 120 volts after stepping down the two 120v poles at 240v. I have no desire to run 240v fixtures, id rather step down to 120v using 120v lamps.. I would not run electronic HMI ballasts, but instead I wonder if magnetic ones would be safe (for upto a 4k, or even 6k?)
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Okay a 30a dryer plug is not 3 phase. 3 phase is something you don't generally see in a residential setting and is mostly found in industrial situations. It's not 2 phase either. Most US residential electrical is simply single phase. A 220 dryer outlet will have 2 hot legs, but that has nothing to do with phases.

The only people I know who have anything 3 phase in their homes are people running 3 phase equipment in their home shops (mills, lathes, etc) and are usually just using a phase converter to power them.

Before going any father please contact an electrician that can help with what you are trying to do.
 
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