Michael Carter
Veteran
If you do, let us know what you get him down to - wouldl't mind having another one of these, especially since a long ballast extension cable is about a $40 DIY!
$150 for a 575 HMI par?
- Thread starter Michael Carter
- Start date
What are the parts for the ballast extension cable?
Fwiw, the ballasts on the TMBs are no noisier than Jokers. Yeah, they're noisy. But jokers are, too.
Michael Carter
Veteran
Way back in this thread is a PDF from Enliten. The gist of it is:
14g AWG cable (just buy a 14 gauge heavy extension cord and cut the ends off, I've found that's cheaper than buying the raw wire); Maximum of 150 feet;
The Enliten Par has a Powercon connector to the ballast; you want to get cable in between that to get the fan far away...
Powercon doesn't make a "female" in-line jack, but they have color-coded parts for "in" and "out", blue or gray, so...
Attach a Powercon NAC3FCA jack to one end of cable; attach a NAC3FCB to the other; and use a Neutrik/Powercon NAC3mm Female-to-Female adapter (like $17). The connectors are about $6 each.
Even if that doesn't make sense in writing, buy the two connectors, the wire and the F-F and when it shows up in the mail you'll say "ahhh, I see"...
14g AWG cable (just buy a 14 gauge heavy extension cord and cut the ends off, I've found that's cheaper than buying the raw wire); Maximum of 150 feet;
The Enliten Par has a Powercon connector to the ballast; you want to get cable in between that to get the fan far away...
Powercon doesn't make a "female" in-line jack, but they have color-coded parts for "in" and "out", blue or gray, so...
Attach a Powercon NAC3FCA jack to one end of cable; attach a NAC3FCB to the other; and use a Neutrik/Powercon NAC3mm Female-to-Female adapter (like $17). The connectors are about $6 each.
Even if that doesn't make sense in writing, buy the two connectors, the wire and the F-F and when it shows up in the mail you'll say "ahhh, I see"...
nyvz
Veteran
Thought I might resurrect this thread since I came across this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291653693963 $154 Chroma Q Daylight Par, appears to be HR and has a "variable speed low noise fan" as well as DMX control/dimming to 60% (which is about all you get of HMIs it seems)
It's also listed on usedlighting for $175 (through a sales partner, so most likely lightauction still ships them). Haven't heard back after messaging the ebay seller about what is included since it's a pretty sparse listing. Seems most likely from the picture that only the unit and maybe a bulb (seems visible in one of the pics) is included, maybe no lenses or barndoors. Might go for it anyway since it might be a worthy upgrade over mine if it's HR and has a quieter fan. I assume since these are all based on Source 4 575 pars they probably all take the same accessories?...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291653693963 $154 Chroma Q Daylight Par, appears to be HR and has a "variable speed low noise fan" as well as DMX control/dimming to 60% (which is about all you get of HMIs it seems)
It's also listed on usedlighting for $175 (through a sales partner, so most likely lightauction still ships them). Haven't heard back after messaging the ebay seller about what is included since it's a pretty sparse listing. Seems most likely from the picture that only the unit and maybe a bulb (seems visible in one of the pics) is included, maybe no lenses or barndoors. Might go for it anyway since it might be a worthy upgrade over mine if it's HR and has a quieter fan. I assume since these are all based on Source 4 575 pars they probably all take the same accessories?...
The TMB has a Source 4-like fixture but it's off-brand so it's possible slight changes in tolerance will mean some things are compatible and some aren't. Fwiw its ballast isn't much louder than a Joker's, but it's closer to the subject usually by virtue of being in the light head, so there's that.
I found 575w 90CRI 5600K and 400w 93CRI 5600K bulbs for about $100 apiece that seem to share most components except the base pins in common with the commonly used "HMI" fixtures, the 575w fresnel and 400w Joker specifically. I was able to fit the 400w bulb in a Leko but not safely. Likewise we got some bad UV radiation and sunburns with these bulbs. If you're doing okay with gelling what you've got that seems like the safer choice.
Curious what you find with the Chroma-Q if you order one. It claims to come with a 95 CRI bulb. Pretty nice. Pretty cheap, too.
Did you do the extension between the ballast and head, or just leave it as is?
Phil Rhodes
Well-known member
Watch those for damaged reflectors. I've had several and one of them had seen very much better days. Having the reflectors recoated tends to make it uneconomic.
Michael Carter
Veteran
Lots of vendors got on the hack-the-Source-4 into an HMI bandwagon, they're very popular trade show lights.
Can you use a ballast extension with the Chroma-Q? Only if the ignitor is on the fixture and not in the ballast. That's a big-ass housing on the butt-end of the light, so could be the ignitor's in there. You'd need to add a socket of some kind though, it looks like the ballast-to-fixture cable is hardwired.
If you can get the ballast off the fixture, you've got a decent HMI for cheap. The photo shows a lens and a globe, too - and you must operate the thing with a lens due to UV. You can get barn doors for $25 or so (knockoffs but fine) and you'll need them for gels, that thing will blast through a gel in the frame pretty quick. Lenses can be found as well, and even the appropriate sized scrims (if that's the same ballast as the Enliten, the dimmer doesn't do much at all).
I can't tell if the fixture is a genuine Source 4, but I have a Tungsten 575 that's a sort of DJ/Theater knockoff and it's been a fine light. Seems like an exact clone and lenses and gel-holder stuff interchange just fine. Altman knocked off the Source 4 and many others as well.
Can you use a ballast extension with the Chroma-Q? Only if the ignitor is on the fixture and not in the ballast. That's a big-ass housing on the butt-end of the light, so could be the ignitor's in there. You'd need to add a socket of some kind though, it looks like the ballast-to-fixture cable is hardwired.
If you can get the ballast off the fixture, you've got a decent HMI for cheap. The photo shows a lens and a globe, too - and you must operate the thing with a lens due to UV. You can get barn doors for $25 or so (knockoffs but fine) and you'll need them for gels, that thing will blast through a gel in the frame pretty quick. Lenses can be found as well, and even the appropriate sized scrims (if that's the same ballast as the Enliten, the dimmer doesn't do much at all).
I can't tell if the fixture is a genuine Source 4, but I have a Tungsten 575 that's a sort of DJ/Theater knockoff and it's been a fine light. Seems like an exact clone and lenses and gel-holder stuff interchange just fine. Altman knocked off the Source 4 and many others as well.
nyvz
Veteran
Oh, interesting. Well I guess the bulb is most important since it's the most expensive part, and hopefully the barndoors and lenses from my TMB powerpar work on it. The worn out reflector could be a bit of a bummer, but I imagine the plug is fairly easy to change since the ballast can do 120v or 240v I think.
How's yours? Fan noise? Is the reflector a big problem? Were you able to get it up and working?
julian
Well-known member
I swapped out the plug, and fired it up….or plug it into the wall outlet (110v) because it doesn't have an OFF/ON switch. I notice the damaged reflector effects the output and the intensity of the fixture. I have (2) of the enlighten cold re-strike fixtures, so i plan to swap reflectors. (I would rather have a hot re-stike fixture). I think they both can take the same barndoors/lens set.
The fan noise is not loud but it's there. This is not a big issue for me as i shoot mostly music videos and the like. I also plan to add an inline power switch, a longer power cable , scrims and a stand mount adapter. Eventually I will buy a spare bulb, can't really figure out the hrs on the one that came in the fixture.
The fan noise is not loud but it's there. This is not a big issue for me as i shoot mostly music videos and the like. I also plan to add an inline power switch, a longer power cable , scrims and a stand mount adapter. Eventually I will buy a spare bulb, can't really figure out the hrs on the one that came in the fixture.
Michael Carter
Veteran
I really like having a 50' cable for the Enliten, but I do interviews often (though I only use the Enliten if it's an office with tons of windows and a view worth holding). The giant yoke makes it a little harder to always bring the thing, it takes the space of 2 fresnels or source 4's and I use a big SUV vs. a van or grip truck.
Been thinking of converting a speed ring to work in the gel holder. Not optimal use of the globe, but there are times when a large soft box is way easier than a diff panel and flagging everything off (lower-key looks where you want a darker look around the subject). I have several Starlite softboxes that can handle the 575.
So which of these show-pars are hot restrike? That's interesting.
And keep us posted on how other brands work out. Even with shipping added, $200 is chump change for 50,000 lumens...
Been thinking of converting a speed ring to work in the gel holder. Not optimal use of the globe, but there are times when a large soft box is way easier than a diff panel and flagging everything off (lower-key looks where you want a darker look around the subject). I have several Starlite softboxes that can handle the 575.
So which of these show-pars are hot restrike? That's interesting.
And keep us posted on how other brands work out. Even with shipping added, $200 is chump change for 50,000 lumens...
julian
Well-known member
The link was posted a few threads up for the ebay seller I got my light from, and yes it's hot restrike. A soft box would definitely be a good choice for this light. Just wish that I could separate the ballast from the yoke, using like say the powercon cables. I would then change the yoke or make it a bit shorter/smaller, but everything is hard wired into this light.
nyvz
Veteran
Looks like this hot-restrike one comes with a bulb that is probably 6000k and 90-95CRI so it may not need any gels which is a big plus since my CTO and minusgreen gels keep burning up! Julian, how's the color on yours?
I agree remote ballast is more flexible especially given possible fan noise but it's kind of nice to have it all in one since it's more compact and all one piece rather than having to hook up and not lose 3-4 different components especially when my gaffer has never seen one of these before... And he doesn't even have to find the on switch
Right now I fit two TMB HMIs in this case: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/500506-REG/Interfit_INT435_INT435_All_In_One_Roller_Bag.html
They fit almost exactly if a bit tight. But I'm guessing these slightly larger hot-restrike ones won't fit
Well the case is kind crappy anyway though it does seem perfect for a little 2hmi kit.
I agree remote ballast is more flexible especially given possible fan noise but it's kind of nice to have it all in one since it's more compact and all one piece rather than having to hook up and not lose 3-4 different components especially when my gaffer has never seen one of these before... And he doesn't even have to find the on switch
Right now I fit two TMB HMIs in this case: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/500506-REG/Interfit_INT435_INT435_All_In_One_Roller_Bag.html
They fit almost exactly if a bit tight. But I'm guessing these slightly larger hot-restrike ones won't fit
Well the case is kind crappy anyway though it does seem perfect for a little 2hmi kit.
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David W. Jones
Veteran
Phil Rhodes
Well-known member
I hate to sound like a stuck record here, but it bears repeating - some PAR56 lenses are OK for UV-emitting light sources, and some aren't. Real-world problems have occurred. They are almost impossible to tell apart outside an optical lab. Be careful.
Also bear in mind that ETC (owners of the Source Four thing) themselves have never made a 575W discharge PAR. They made the Source Four PAR HID, which at 150W is probably a bit less powerful than a 650W tungsten. All else is after market stuff.
Also bear in mind that ETC (owners of the Source Four thing) themselves have never made a 575W discharge PAR. They made the Source Four PAR HID, which at 150W is probably a bit less powerful than a 650W tungsten. All else is after market stuff.
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nyvz
Veteran
Don't forget barn doors. But this seems to come with a bulb, and these are 1000hr bulbs so there's a pretty good chance it's got more life left in it than a few tungstens. The bulbs are always a big expense in owning an HMI, but they have good life and you still can't get an LED at any price that does some of the things this can do. And a light fixture with ballast that costs about the same as a new bulb is worth considering a deal.
Are you implying $350 is a lot or a little or neither? You could go without the new bulb and save $100 (though I see someone selling a 2pack new on ebay for $100 I'm tempted to jump on). The only other lights that would be comparable to this are in the $2-5k range and usually don't even come with a used bulb. I suppose I'm also in a different boat than you since I already have TMB power pars and have lenses and barn doors from those I can probably use on this.
On the other hand, the power factor is a bit concerning. Seems like it's designed for 240V. Circuit breakers will care about the poor PF right? if it draws 575W but 1100VA can I not put two on a 15A circuit?
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David W. Jones
Veteran
Just letting folks know what something like this really costs, as opposed to the $154 buy it now price.
Probably also want to add a baby spud.
And yes, you can run up the price by adding goodies like top hat, gel holders, barn doors and such.