$150 for a 575 HMI par?

This was my first test at the start of this thread, 1/2 CTO + 1/8 minus green, through a 4x4 diffusion I believe… looks a tiny bit yellow to me but nothing a custom white balance wouldn't cure. Not far off your 1/4 CTO results. Of course, the lower-cost bulbs we've been looking at will all have their own color quirks, but it's a nice bunch of photons for a few bucks!

par.jpg
 
I totally agree, I'm going to do a proper test with my RED setup once I have the time and really get a feel for the light. The only thing that bothers me now is the buzz from the bulb. Ive worked with larger 1.2HMI lights and OSRAM bulbs and they were fairly quiet, could hear a tiny buzz close up but these cheaper bulbs are pronounced. I'm going to try and get a used expensive bulb just to see how much more silent they will be. I'm hoping that its the bulb only thats causing the buzz and not anything to do with the way the ballast handles the ark. If a good bulb is quiet, i'll be super happy to pay the big bucks for them. I'd most likely still not get the 6000k ones, since a little bit of gel is much better on the pocket vs 230 for 1 of these.
 
The used no-name globe that shipped with mine and the Phillips "Broadway" I bought are both silent on my Enliten model - I imagine you'll find something that works.
 
Last edited:
Michael Carter said:
The used no-name globe that shipped with mine and the Phillips "Broadway" I bought are both silent on my Enliten model - I imagine you'll find something that works.

Checked today, a seller has nine of the 6000k MSD 575 Broadways, new on eBay, $69 each plus shipping. Not the cheapest bulb out there but great in these fixtures.
Click to expand...

That globe you're talking about appears to be Hot-restrike and G22 base?
 
Last edited:
Anyone with buyer's regret on the Enlighten fixture? I have the TMB but I need the Enlighten. Long story.

If so, would be happy to take one off your hands. Or just the ballast, even.
 
Policar said:
Anyone with buyer's regret on the Enlighten fixture? I have the TMB but I need the Enlighten. Long story.

If so, would be happy to take one off your hands. Or just the ballast, even.
Click to expand...

I'm curious about your long story, care to share? I have the TMB so I'm curious why one would need the Enliten instead...
 
I PM'd you. It's not terribly exciting.

Does anyone have the Enlighten (separate ballast) and would you be willing to trade it for a Power Par (ballast on the yoke)? I would throw in cash. Or have the Enlighten and want to sell it for more than you bought it for?

The reason is simple. I want to run the ballast to a different lamp head and I am afraid to cut the wire going between the capacitors and the lamp head.

Fwiw, the Sylvania 6000K/85CRI, which is $100, does not fit in this unit. Very disappointing. Do not order it in hopes of using it. It's basically an HMI bulb, but not compatible with this unit. :(

I am testing another potential bulb that might or might not work, but could be amazing.
 
Last edited:
I'd really prefer a separate ballast unit, especially seeing that the Enliten can do a 150' ballast cable at 14 AWG. As I posted earlier, you can make a 150' powercon for under $125.

I imagine there will be plenty more Enlitens on the market if you keep an eye out. All those huge auto shows, trade shows, etc - the ceilings of convention centers were covered in converted Source 4's. Don't know how many were Enlitens, but those seem to be prevalent on the used market.

Maybe request a head's up for the used lighting guys, they're pretty helpful.
 
On second thought, it appears as though the igniter is a separate unit on the Enlighten whereas it's built into the ballast on the TMB. Assuming both ballasts can drive 400w and 575w bulbs (and they should, the Enlighten certainly should) either one would work for me...

I'm about to receive a 400w bulb that's a good candidate. Much less bright but much higher CRI and tighter arc.
 
Fwiw ignitor in the unit is more traditional for an HMI, and the Enlighten does appear better for this reason, but it still means you need an ignitor for every unit you use it with. I think. :X
 
My understanding about ignitors is they're placed inside or very close to the fixture due to their high voltage startup kick… so I assume you'd need to make the igniter able to switch from fixture to fixture with the Enliten setup. But ignitors don't have fans so they can be close to the set, and then the ballast can be further away with a cable run.
 
Michael Carter said:
My understanding about ignitors is they're placed inside or very close to the fixture due to their high voltage startup kick… so I assume you'd need to make the igniter able to switch from fixture to fixture with the Enliten setup. But ignitors don't have fans so they can be close to the set, and then the ballast can be further away with a cable run.
Click to expand...

Very true. And they're made with legit ETC fixtures, too. IMO the more desirable unit.
 
Policar said:
Very true. And they're made with legit ETC fixtures, too. IMO the more desirable unit.
Click to expand...

There's a ton of source 4 knockoffs out there - I understand the altmans are good. I have a (tungsten) "Flexipar" by MTB, they're about $110 new - it's a decent fixture. Pretty kickass when you need tungsten actually, good for beams through smoke and that sort of thing. But used altmans show up often in the $60 range.

It seems like the various knockoffs are a little different though - someone bought MTB (as I recall) barn doors on this thread that didn't fit the source 4.
 
Blackmagic Pocket DNG files on google drive testing the Enliten 575 Par, Philips MSR 575/2 used Bulb with and without daylight and a tungsten 2k.

Download the files here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B...nBKWTM0dXk1SUcwcVpxWXRJMGNWWHJfdDQ&authuser=0

Lighting test key.
Shot on the blackmagic pocket, Rokinon 35mm lens.
575= Enliten 575 par 8 feet from a 8x8 silk 8 feet from subject
tungsten 2k= Arri 2k tungsten fresnel 8 feet from 8x8 silk 8 feet from subject
uv= rosco uv filter
gn= rosco 3/4 minus green
st= rosco 1/2 straw
Kino= 4 kino daylight cfl bulbs in softbox 4 feet from subject
LED= Switronix Bolt LED 4 feet from subject dimmed to match exposure


The daylight light was fairly overcast and cool as seen in the daylight only tests, so this is not a perfect test by any means. However working with the raw stills will still give a sense for how the light balances out. The Par is a stop brighter than the tungsten 2k fresnel without gel to correct and about the same luma output once corrected.
 
Last edited:
Wow, you needed 3/4 minus green and 1/2 straw correction? That's more than twice the correction I needed. Was that with the used bulb?
 
The straw was really too warm, clean somewhere to 5600 was 3/4 minus green. I'd like to try the 1/4 minus green + half O combo that worked well for Michael....
 
Combining lower strength -green and +O is probably the better way to go. I went with a straight -green correction and that needed -3/4 green to get to neutral. I'll try it the other way and let you know how that went.....
Using gels on non linear spectrum lighting is going to be a rough approximation / whatever looks pleasing as these are spikey outputs and these gels are designed for the smooth output of a tungsten light. The upshot of the test for me was that this is very usable for my needs, and that I can mix with daylight.
 
Got my second HMI in the mail today, this time with used bulb, NO BUZZ! woooo! So that problem is solved, now that I have the 50' header option, I dont think I even need to worry about modding the fans anymore either, very quiet light now. I'm happy

So has anyone gotten a real answer yet as to the UV protection of these lenses? I'm really hoping they are because I haven't been using any UV gel, any thoughts on this? I would assume that because these were used in the mass of 50+ heads going at the same time in a public space, that these would be UV protected, as for everyones eyes would be hit with massive UV at a car show if not... but you never know?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top