GH5 100 ASA or 400 ASA in sunny days - video?

No one on earth will notice a difference between any high-end fixed filter and a decent variable filter while watching your compressed work online.

Show people samples side-by-side zoomed in at 200% in an editing suite, and then maybe you'll get a few comments.

Enjoy the variable ND and its convenience until someone who is paying you hundreds of thousands of dollars for your work decides you should use something else.
 
Bassman2003 said:
In my opinion, the variable ND filter will be great for your use. I have used a Variable ND for a lot of shoots and the image looks great. I white balance after the filter is in place to take away any color cast that might be there but with 4k, there is plenty of resolution for a great looking image. The ease of use outweighs any image degradation imho.
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity: do you use ithe variable ND filter with lens hood. Did you buy the filter with the same size of the lens or larger?
 
For those still interested, here's what actually happens when you use "extended ISO" on any digital camera. The image sensor contains millions of photoreceptors that convert captured photons into accumulated electric charge. Each time the sensor is scanned, this analog electric charge is digitized into bits. The ADC that digitizes the sensor's photoreceptors has more bit-depth than can fit into the GH5's 12-bit RAW data output. When you select extended ISO 100, the camera shifts all digitized data down one bit, discarding the least significant bit to make room for an extra bit of highlight headroom in the 12-bit RAW output data. This can keep your highlights from clipping and has an imperceptible effect on highlight detail, but it can majorly reduce shadow detail (which is where 14-bit RAW makes a practical difference).

When you use an extended ISO to boost your exposure, the camera does the opposite: it shifts all digitized data up one bit or more. That can increase your exposure enough to make JPEG's and videos acceptably bright, but it cannot fabricate genuine image data to fill in the now empty least significant bit(s). So long as you don't overexpose, this has no deleterious effect on the RAW data. With JPEG's and videos, you get arguably better compression quality in midrange tones, but low DR in the shadows.
 
FoxAdriano said:
Out of curiosity: do you use ithe variable ND filter with lens hood. Did you buy the filter with the same size of the lens or larger?
Click to expand...

I have larger ND filters as I used to shoot video with Canon FF lenses. I use step down rings for the smaller GH5 lenses without a lens hood.
 
Bassman2003 said:
I have larger ND filters as I used to shoot video with Canon FF lenses. I use step down rings for the smaller GH5 lenses without a lens hood.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, you don't understand my question. My english is not good. With other words I ask: if I have a Leica 12-60mm lens 62mm, it is better I buy a larger ND variable filter or 62mm is better?
Then ... when you use thr variablr ND filter I think you can't use lens hood. Right?
 
FoxAdriano said:
I'm sorry, you don't understand my question. My english is not good. With other words I ask: if I have a Leica 12-60mm lens 62mm, it is better I buy a larger ND variable filter or 62mm is better?
Then ... when you use thr variablr ND filter I think you can't use lens hood. Right?
Click to expand...
Some people will say buy the filter to the exact size of your lens so you can use the hood. Others (like myself) say buy the biggest one you can afford so that you know it will be big enough for lenses you might buy in the future.
 
77mm is a good size for my use...it fits my big Nikons exactly and any other lenses (from memory I believe the Sigma 18-35 is 72) or my set of Canon FDs...in fact one set covers every lens I own....however, I do not use variable ND, but Set of ND's....very easy to get into the "range" with for the day, and IMO better if you're shooting video.
 
FoxAdriano said:
I'm sorry, you don't understand my question. My english is not good. With other words I ask: if I have a Leica 12-60mm lens 62mm, it is better I buy a larger ND variable filter or 62mm is better?
Then ... when you use thr variablr ND filter I think you can't use lens hood. Right?
Click to expand...

Adriano, I have answered this question for you before! :) It is better to buy larger ND filters so they can cover more lenses. You do not want to use a lens hood with a variable ND filter - How will you be able to adjust the filter with the lens hood in the way? So it would not make sense to not buy a single small size if you might own a larger lens at some point. Then you need to buy two $200 filters...
 
Bassman2003 said:
Adriano, I have answered this question for you before! :) It is better to buy larger ND filters so they can cover more lenses. You do not want to use a lens hood with a variable ND filter - How will you be able to adjust the filter with the lens hood in the way? So it would not make sense to not buy a single small size if you might own a larger lens at some point. Then you need to buy two $200 filters...
Click to expand...

I know I know it. But if the parent company recommends to put a lens hood to improve the image, why do you not find a trick or a gimmick to add a lens hood even if rubber? You spend 200-300 euros to buy a very good filter and then you make the image worse by not putting the lens hood. mmmm This seems to me to be a contradiction.
 
Its just too niche of an item for companies to care about figuring it out. Lens hood is only necessary under certain conditions tho.
 
DxO's testing uses RAW stills, whereas video is JPG based. Since the "extended ISO's" of the GH3 and to GH5, JPG's at the low values have definite highlight clipping - virtually no roll-off curve at the top. Why this is so, and why no curve applied, who knows? Shooting with/without a -5 on the shadow/highlight option @ ISO 100 would be an interesting test...
 
Since this is a GH5 forum, I'd like to ask a question after so many other questions I asked. If I want to make a good 4K video in a sunny day, which is the ideal exposure shooting 25p and 50p? I mean: are f4 and 1/50 shooting 25p and f4 and 1/100 shooting 50p the ideal exposures? Thanks
 
Adriano, you need to learn more about photography if you want to use the GH5 correctly. Your question about "ideal exposure" is just an incorrect question. I would suggest some classes or Lynda.com tutorials to learn about the basics of shooting. Photography and/or video.

There is mainly correct exposure. Everything else is over exposed or under exposed. Everything else in photography is a CHOICE made by the shooter. you have to know why the choice is being made and this is not the role of user forums like this. This kind of learning needs to be done by you or just leave the camera set to auto.

Keep on trying and learning.
 
Bassman2003 said:
Adriano, you need to learn more about photography if you want to use the GH5 correctly. Your question about "ideal exposure" is just an incorrect question. I would suggest some classes or Lynda.com tutorials to learn about the basics of shooting. Photography and/or video.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I think you don't understand my question maybe due to my bad english. So that I don't understand your reply. Maybe to ask my question I should ask: what should be the ideal iris/shutter ? I make an example. Some days ago I made some tests with my GH5 and I shot also with f10 but an expert friend of mine noticed a loss of quality of the image. He told me maybe I got a bad image because I used f/10 and on m4/3 and it is a bit too much.

He told me that on m4/3 the f/10 is equivalent to having f/20 on FF (x2)
He added "on my little LX100 I do not go over f / 5.6 to get the max quality".
So I don't want the loss of sharpness due to too closed diaphragms that gives diffraction. For this reason I'm asking what if the best otion about iris for a m4/3 camera.
 
Last edited:
A recap of your responses here and on DPReview:

Shoot 1/50th shutter
Keep the Iris at or below f8
Set ISO as low as it can go
Use a variable ND filter to be able to keep the shutter speed and iris at those levels.

Simple. Just go shoot. You are obsessing over this "max quality" idea. Stop doing this! The info above will last your entire career. Keep it simple.
 
Bassman, I thank you for your availability but if you are tired to answer my naive questions you aren't obliged to reply me. If you should choose between the two options, would you shoot "like 709" or "Standard"?
 
Adriano, please do not play the "victim" role. Just trying to keep you focused om what is really important. Your questions are not the problem, it is the lack of taking the advice when coming from a naïve place that makes people unhappy.

I think "Natural" is the mode that most like the best or Cine-D if you want to do more adjustments in post.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top