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For those that might be confused by this, let me provide a bit of detail.
This "1.4 Crop" does NOT refer to Crop Factor. We are not talking about the relative size of the EVA1's sensor compared to a Full Frame sensor or anything else.
Thereare a few ways to alter the portion of the sensor used instead of utilizing the standard Super-35 image area.
- Electronic Image Stabilization (EIS)
EIS is available if you wish to stabilize an image in-camera and do not have Optical Image Stabilization available in the lens (it's an either/or proposition). EIS crops in by about 13% in order to allow the captured frame to move east/west & north/south. In this mode only the EVA1 will also let this smaller frame move about to photo sites that are outside of the normal 5.7K imaging area, about 5% larger, allowing greater compensating stabilization. Because the sensor is so high in resolution even the cropped frame still delivers excellent 4K images. The result is a pretty minor crop, about 1.12x.
- 4/3 Crop & Mix 2.2K
The name is a bit of a mouthful so let me parse it out. The image area is 4/3". It's actually a bit larger than the Micro 4/3" image area used on the GH5 by a couple of millimeters in image circle. That's a significant amount, so before you ask: No, if you could somehow adapt a MFT lens to fit on here it would not definitely cover this sensor area. The Mix 2.2K part of the name refers to what the camera does with the image coming off this cropped part of the sensor. This mode is to allow the camera to shoot at high frame rates in 2K or HD. The 4/3" image area represents 4.5K of resolution on the sensor. This data is immediately averaged (or "Mixed") to create 2.25K (rounded off to 2.2K in the name). This is done by taking four groups of four photosites, each group being a square of (top) green, red, (bottom) blue, green, and averaging the four groups to to create a single group of green, red, blue, green. Now it is a "virtual" 2.25K sensor, and this data then goes through a traditional downrez in order to create a 2K or HD finished image. For those playing at home, using a 2.25K image to create an HD image is what the Sony F3 did. And as an extra-special little aside, Apple takes all incoming image data and turns it into 2.25K and then down converts it into HD for the iPhone 6-8 models (I can't remember the numbers for the iPhone X). Anyway, back to the EVA1: The 4/3 Crop & Mix 2.2K mode enables the camera to shoot up to 240fps. This crop is about 1.25x compared to the Super-35 frame, so I've taken you all on a long journey to extoll the virtues of the EVA1 without yet answering the original question.
- Digital Zoom
Here it is. This the "1.4 crop" that was asked about. It is a Digital Zoom ("D. Zoom" in the menu) that crops to the native 4K section of the sensor instead of the full Super-35 5.7K. The result is the same sort of 4K 9or UHD) that one can get from all the other 4K cameras out there. It's a great quick way to turn your 25mm into a 35mm for a quick shot. Digital Zoom is available in the "S35 5.7K" mode (shoot Super-35 sensor area, utilize 5.7K to record 4K, UHD, 2K or HD up to 60fps) and in the "S35 MIX 2.8K" mode (shoot Super-35, average 5.7K down to 2.8K, record 2K or HD up to 120fps). In those two sensor modes, when the Digital Zoom is switched on the camera is starting at 4K resolution instead of 5.7K. Digital Zoom is not available in "4/3 Crop & Mix 2.2K" because there would only be a relatively small crop possible before dipping below a native 4K sensor area.
Digital Zoom starts at 4K instead of 5.7K so there is some resolution loss, but you may not ever notice. There is no change in Dynamic Range or data rate. Digital Zoom can be assigned to any of the EVA1's nine User Buttons. It cannot be triggered mid-recording.
I've only had my camera for a week but I've already used the D.Zoom over a dozen times. If I blew the image up 400% and stuck my face on the monitor with a magnifying glass I might see a difference, but during a regular viewing it's seamless. And, if anything, in 1080 its better. It's very useful, especially for fast handheld shooting with a lens like the 24-105 - that lens becomes like a 12-120 in 16mm (which I shot with for many years). I've assigned it to one of the User buttons on the grip.
I've only had my camera for a week but I've already used the D.Zoom over a dozen times. If I blew the image up 400% and stuck my face on the monitor with a magnifying glass I might see a difference, but during a regular viewing it's seamless. And, if anything, in 1080 its better. It's very useful, especially for fast handheld shooting with a lens like the 24-105 - that lens becomes like a 12-120 in 16mm (which I shot with for many years). I've assigned it to one of the User buttons on the grip.
Why would you see a difference in the monitoring signal? That is 1080p regardless. Pixel peep the recorded frame and you will probably see the difference..
What makes you think I'm viewing the monitor? First, I use a Gratical, not a monitor. Second, I shoot documentaries, not hurry up and wait. Third, I have evaluated the recorded footage, not the frame, shooting both 4K and 1080.
The problem with these forums is people who always want to dig at those who express positive experiences. FYI, I'm a 50 year professional, that's all I've ever done to make my living, I have earned the right to an opinion.
Thanks that clarifies a lot. Will it work differently in 1080p vs. 4K?
That’s good to hear, how fast is the one button push?
Why would you see a difference in the monitoring signal? That is 1080p regardless. Pixel peep the recorded frame and you will probably see the difference..
Instantaneous.
Great. Any indication when the all I software update is coming?