Aputure Lights

[ahalpert]

Matthews c-stand rated at 22 lbs. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/227746-REG/Matthews_756040_Hollywood_Century_C_Stand.html

I feel like booming it out (farther than the 40" gobo arm) would be the only challenge. Otherwise just bring a regular c-stand and put an extra sandbag on it? And maybe there's a smaller chance that you need to boom it anyway if it's always your key?

 

[Joshua Milligan]

Those are the stands I have. I have 6 of them and love them. I’ve tried other stands such as the highly regarded Matthews Hollywood Beefy Baby, but I hated them and sent them back only to buy more of stands you linked above.

 

[Joshua Milligan]

Actually I take that back. Mine are similar, but slightly more expensive. I use these: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/112099-REG/Matthews_756140_Century_C_Turtle_Base.html

 

[ahalpert]

Ah, looks like a lighter stand with the same load capacity

 

[cpreston]

I don't have Aputure lights, so my opinion is fairly general.

First, you can always buy some 4' gel rolls for gelling your light domes. The light domes are going to be quite a bit more efficient than a book light anyway, so that is always my first choice when worried about power.

Second, trying to overpower the sun always seems to be a losing battle. If somebody wants to shoot with windows as the backdrop, I'm bringing a couple of M18's and still praying for a cloudy day. The difference between a 600D and a 1200D isn't going to get you very far when the sun comes out. That being said, both the 600D and 1200D are just going to be easier to deal with on junior rollers, especially with a light dome, so you might as well step up to the larger size.

 

[morgan_moore]

my idea of booming a light would start with the matthws combo, have some sand counterweight an probably hang the light 2 or 3 m

I cant see much point of keying from a 40in arm

this is the wongler I made recently to boom using a scaff tube.. https://www.instagram.com/p/CWin0Hoq..._web_copy_link

recently I built a ply box for my weights which had been flopping around the van for a decade my weights go on scaff tube.

 

[Joshua Milligan]

When I need to boom a light, I boom my Westcott 1’x1’ Bi-Color Flex lights. They are super light and can be used with a China cube or soft box depending on the look you’re going for. Makes booming much simpler as you can get away with a Matthew’s Baby Boom on a C-stand with a small sandbag vs needing a giant setup.

 

[ahalpert]

I cant see much point of keying from a 40in arm

this is the wongler I made recently to boom using a scaff tube.. [

Right but if it's mainly for 3/4 frontal interview light or through a window, you may not have to boom aa often

wongler? Now you're just making words up!

 

[rob norton]

Any reason to get the Baby over the Mini Baby? The Mini is 9” wide and the Baby is 24”. I like the idea of the shorter 9” one and putting my two 300X’s on it to make them almost like a single brighter light source.

I could be wrong but I think two 300x lights will be too wide (yoke/locking handle) for the mini baby double header.

 

[morgan_moore]

wongler? Now you're just making words up!

The item I linked does not have a title as it is not in production.

"a male junior pin to UK scaff converter"*

'Wongler' would be to me (maybe me only) a component of this nature whose name is unknown. It is IMO important when directing crew to be accurate.. 'baby plate' 'gag gobo' (?) k clamp, superclamp et al or they get the wrong bit from the van#

Its a seperate thread title the 'knuckle, double knucke, gag gobo' item (avenger d200)

*assuming uk scaff to be a different OD from USA 'speedrail'

 

[NorBro]

So far over the past couple of weeks I went ahead and ordered two Aputure LS 300X's and two LS 60X's. My thought was that the 300X's would make for great interview lights being that they are bi-color and that the two LS 60X's would make for great bi-color rim lights/hair lights.

I picked up a LS 60d at B&H today (daylight-only).

What an amazingly cute light!

Not sure what other companies do, but the case, barn doors, and various power accessories they provide you with this thing makes everything so easy.

 

[mcbob]

To complicate the mix, wonder if anyone here has tried the Lupo Movielight 300? Their Superpanels and DayLEDs have been a treat to work with, and have to admit strongly preferring the single-unit, single-wire deployment vs. the usual COB light spaghetti.

 

[morgan_moore]

as a big lupo (panels 200 fresnels) owner.. im not sure they stack up price wise in the post apture world?

they are stil handy lights though nothing wrong with them.

 

[rob norton]

It'd be cool if every light had a self-ballasted option, as well as a split option or failing that a ROCK SOLID way to unify the pieces. Arri skypanel rail system is pretty good!

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...4_300U_Universal_150W_Spotlight_On_Board.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/390728-REG/Dedolight_SM24_1E_Mono_150W_24V_Tungsten.html

 

[mcbob]

as a big lupo (panels 200 fresnels) owner.. im not sure they stack up price wise in the post apture world?

they are stil handy lights though nothing wrong with them.

I reckon they've felt the pinch and adjusted accordingly... the MovieLight 300 (a 300W bowens bicolor) is roughly the same price as the Aputure 300x (a 300W bowens bicolor) but supposedly outputs a tad more. All things the same, I'd personally prefer to buy from not China whenever possible anyway.