How to have full manual everything on a 5D
- Thread starter deedive
- Start date
What does this mean? What button? how?
Before i try your method, I only found that TV and manual lens will give shutter&aparture control only in iso 100. http://www.vimeo.com/2600208 But this is it. Plus a histogram bonus!
A trully manual control!!
Go get nikon zeiss glass guys! And you have a mini RED1 camera.
Mini in size, price, and :undecided compression .. With bigger sensor, cheaper lens, and full manual control of course. Thanks again Deedive!!
A trully manual control!!
Go get nikon zeiss glass guys! And you have a mini RED1 camera.
Mini in size, price, and :undecided compression .. With bigger sensor, cheaper lens, and full manual control of course. Thanks again Deedive!!
deedive
Well-known member
the button on the top right, with the STAR * above it, and the chess board and - mag glass under it.
egproductions
Veteran
I would just like to point out that out that assiriel is a junior member with only 3 posts. Not trying to accuse anybody of anything but I would feel more comfortable if a senior member can confirm that this works.
Lee Wilson
Veteran
This is not a picture of the 5D mkII.
the button on the top right, with the STAR * above it, and the chess board and - mag glass under it.
Well for me it works in so far that it locks the shutter and iso, but it is only possible after you hit record to see what the cam is shooting at by lightly pressing the take picture button. I did not see that setting the shutter or iso beforehand influenced what values the camera records once you press the record button, but that depending which way the lens is facing into light or darkness it would adjust the iso and shutter accordingly (probably trying to achieve as close as possible to correct exposure). To me it seems the only thing that really had much effect was the combination of TV mode + the * button that let the recording start in a fixed exposure mode. I think the top of the post should be modified to more accurately reflect this or otherwise proved some photographic evidence.
I tested this with nikon glass.
deedive
Well-known member
it seems that people woke up on the wrongs side of the bed today.
the button on the top right, with the STAR * above it, and the chess board and - mag glass under it.
to everyone who has the camera i hope they are having as much fun as me. It is a great stills camera. For people looking for a small video camera look somewhere else. get a hv20, 30 hf100, hf20 etc. with an adapter.
Dont know why 3 posts makes assiriel's opinion unvalid. But if it does to you i have been around for a while. When i first posted it seemed to work perfectly. After doing test in a bunch of different condition i realized it doesnt work in all condition. So me and a few others where trying to figure out why. (i believe that i said i was testing before)
np, happy shooting.
I did a quick search for pics, and didnt think it mattered. Its in the same place with the same icons.
the button on the top right, with the STAR * above it, and the chess board and - mag glass under it.
to everyone who has the camera i hope they are having as much fun as me. It is a great stills camera. For people looking for a small video camera look somewhere else. get a hv20, 30 hf100, hf20 etc. with an adapter.
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John Caballero
Veteran
Or just go out and shoot with the 5D. Plenty of people are already doing it and showing great results.
deedive
Well-known member
most of the questions i'm thinking are coming from people who don't have the camera and thinking about buyin it to make movies/films, etc.
I think u can buy a better "video" camera for less than 2800+lenses+tax. 5d is great for what it is, still camera and weird hybrid
u can get great video out of it, but i dont think if u ask any pro DP "what camera do u wanna shoot your next feature on" will answer 5d.
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joe 1008
Veteran
Don't count on that. Vincent Laforet actually is using a 5D together with a RED in a professional production. (blog.vincentlaforet.com) There are many advantages for a stealthy & light camera, even for a pro.
John Caballero
Veteran
Don't worry it will be done and is going to look fantastic. Quite a few people will have the motivation and courage and actually shoot a great looking feature with the 5D. Looking at the footage just starting to come out it is obvious how great the moving images from it look and the big potential. You need workarounds and time to set up? Well, if you are going to shoot with 35mm by examnple, there are so many steps in camera set up before you can actually start shooting the first foot of film the time you spend setting up the 5D is like eating candy.
deedive
Well-known member
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying u cant, and get good work. And for shooting specific things it is probably perfect. I'm just saying it is intentionally crippled to make it harder. Things like lossing all settings when u stop recording. Hopefully the canon gods with bless us with another firmware update.
dont cry dude. We all love our cameras. And im sure u have the motivation and courage to carry on. Making a movie is hard period. But with the scarlet coming out soon, and it being cheaper why would someone shoot a feature on a 5d?
Look at the name of this thread, im just another person using the camera. Getting used to it and trying to come up with smoother workflows.
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At this point we make a compromise no mater which option we use.
35mm adapters
- lose a lot of light
- considerably lose image sharpness
- always more vignetting
- throws the camera way off balance
- cost almost as much as a 5D Mark II with a flip module and the necessary rods
- Requires additional batteries
- Has an extra On/Off switch people often forget
- Very heavy
- Time to setup, rig, configure
- More complicated setup (Focus on GG, zoom, etc...)
- Less reliable
- Grain is visible at higher f/stops
- A pain to clean and keep clean
5D Mark II
- Shutter speed selection/ISO needs workaround
- Limited manual control
- Requires Nikon glass for manual control (or twist EF off)
- extremely sharp pictures
- Unheard of low light performance
- Strange shape for video production
- Some aliasing problems require diffusion filters
- unorthodox post workflow can be a bit of a pain
- Small, lightweight, and does not attract much attention
- Relatively cheap. Compared to buying a HVX200 (for example) + 35mm adapter rig.
- 30p requires extra steps and time in post for 24p
The fact is that we have no perfect solution today. Both have advantages over the other.
35mm adapters
- lose a lot of light
- considerably lose image sharpness
- always more vignetting
- throws the camera way off balance
- cost almost as much as a 5D Mark II with a flip module and the necessary rods
- Requires additional batteries
- Has an extra On/Off switch people often forget
- Very heavy
- Time to setup, rig, configure
- More complicated setup (Focus on GG, zoom, etc...)
- Less reliable
- Grain is visible at higher f/stops
- A pain to clean and keep clean
5D Mark II
- Shutter speed selection/ISO needs workaround
- Limited manual control
- Requires Nikon glass for manual control (or twist EF off)
- extremely sharp pictures
- Unheard of low light performance
- Strange shape for video production
- Some aliasing problems require diffusion filters
- unorthodox post workflow can be a bit of a pain
- Small, lightweight, and does not attract much attention
- Relatively cheap. Compared to buying a HVX200 (for example) + 35mm adapter rig.
- 30p requires extra steps and time in post for 24p
The fact is that we have no perfect solution today. Both have advantages over the other.
Lee Wilson
Veteran
It doesn't.
HowdyDoo
Well-known member
Why?
Why?
Most arguments about why the 5D has been crippled are centered around the fact that if the 5D was a fully capable video camera it would encroach upon Canon's video sales.
I don't understand why Canon would possess this thinking, simply because money is money. Why would they care about how they acquire it? If they acquire a customer's money by selling a DSLR or a video camera, it all still goes to Canon in the end.
If anything, Canon stands to make MORE money off the DSLR market than the video camera market thanks to lenses and accessories. Everyone knows that when you choose a DSLR brand, you are entering a world where you may feasibly spend thousands upon thousands of dollars on lenses from that same company, over time.
I think Canon would be pleasantly surprised with how much more money they would make if they decided to make the leap and merge their video department with their DSLR department.
Why?
Most arguments about why the 5D has been crippled are centered around the fact that if the 5D was a fully capable video camera it would encroach upon Canon's video sales.
I don't understand why Canon would possess this thinking, simply because money is money. Why would they care about how they acquire it? If they acquire a customer's money by selling a DSLR or a video camera, it all still goes to Canon in the end.
If anything, Canon stands to make MORE money off the DSLR market than the video camera market thanks to lenses and accessories. Everyone knows that when you choose a DSLR brand, you are entering a world where you may feasibly spend thousands upon thousands of dollars on lenses from that same company, over time.
I think Canon would be pleasantly surprised with how much more money they would make if they decided to make the leap and merge their video department with their DSLR department.
Hey deedive,
As of today do you still feel that your method gives you full manual or are you experiencing the same things i described in my last post, that the info 'on lock' is not the info the camera records once you hit rec? Or do we simply have cameras, adapters or lenses that react differently to your method? Just curios.
Did anyone come across a comprehensive write up for a 5D workflow? What is the best way to go as of today? What shutter speed best reflects the 180* shutter angle? If shutter 50 and 60 look the same and 40 is slightly faster than 40 at least when compared to the still frame at stutter 40, could 40 be the way to go? What is the best shutter speed to convert into 24 or 25p?
thanks
As of today do you still feel that your method gives you full manual or are you experiencing the same things i described in my last post, that the info 'on lock' is not the info the camera records once you hit rec? Or do we simply have cameras, adapters or lenses that react differently to your method? Just curios.
Did anyone come across a comprehensive write up for a 5D workflow? What is the best way to go as of today? What shutter speed best reflects the 180* shutter angle? If shutter 50 and 60 look the same and 40 is slightly faster than 40 at least when compared to the still frame at stutter 40, could 40 be the way to go? What is the best shutter speed to convert into 24 or 25p?
thanks