The end of 35mm adapers and hv20s....

Joe94 said:
The TV screen thing? If so I did that a couple days ago. I used a TV not a CRT monitor and the refresh time wasn't reliable enough.
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Did you use my movie?

A TV wont show a useful picture at all unless the refresh time is very close to the specifications, so i don't think that was the problem. I did my tests with a TV and that worked just fine. I think you saw a flicker because the camera shoots 24 fps and TV is about 60 fps. You have to look through the clips frame by frame to find a frame where the start of the line and end of it is visible. TVs actually starts to draw lines outside the visible area, thats why you have to find that frame. It will look something like this with shutter 1/30, or like this with shutter 1/60.

EDIT: And don't forget to record with the camera tilted 90 degrees, otherwise it won't work at all due to the nature of the rolling shutter.

EDIT2: The method is described here and here.
 
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If you can figure out that a -3 is close to a 1/50th shutter, and that doesn't change during shooting, then the only other variable that cannot be controlled during shooting is ISO? If this is already set will it change automatically no matter what during shooting?
 
Bearing, I used your movie. I Imported it into premier then flipped it 90 degrees, rescaled it and looped it. When I went through the footage from the d90 frame by frame I got on solid bar three frames in a row and then two bars on the fourth frame. This repeated for the whole file. I didn't know about Exposure Compensation at the time though.
 
John Caballero said:
Kholi, did you see the warning on Active D-Lighting probably causing noise,, banding and mottling in photographs at high ISO sensitivities? May it affect DMovie in any way?
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active d. won't work with video for a long time
it's a local tone mapping method, an hdr-like processing of the internal raw in order to get more dynamic range in jpeg images

it's cpu intensive
 
I did the lines vertical with a purpose. The method won't work it you flip the video. The purpose was to get lines which are drawn 60 times per second. Horizontal lines are drawn tens of thousand times a second - thats too fast.

Use the original file and record the TV with the D90 rotated 90 degrees.
 
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retiming video works fine
i've retimed to 50% without problems. very smooth motion an all interframes
using 24p is much easy to build interframes without artifacts than interlaced
 
"I did not know that" - Walter Sobchak

I'll try it tomorrow evening if someone doesn't do it first, I have get some sleep now.
 
ekai said:
The D2X had a CMOS sensor that was first developed by Sony for their R1 system, the D200/D80 is from the Sony A100 sensor, and the D300 is from the same sensor used by Sony in their A700.
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yes but the interesting fact is that sony never had iso 3200 on the same sensors.
strange thing.

nikon d80, pentax k10d and sony a100 shared the exact same sensor.
only d80 had iso 3200. IQ tests you can find on the web show more detail on d80 than on the others.
 
Kholi said:
Adobe RGB space has too much banding for my tastes. Does it look okay to you?
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it could be your monitor, lcd whatever it is
it can't display adobe rgb. unless you pay ~$3000 with a 10bit video card you can't see it

adobe rgb doesn't "look" good unless you convert it to your display's profile
but it retains lot more color information http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/NikonD1x/Samples/Colourspace/chromaticity_diagram_gamut.jpg

what software did you use to check that video?
is it color profile enabled? your project is 8 or 10 bit?

basically if your app converts internally to srgb without a profile -> profile mapping it will drop colors
if you take shots in adobe photoshop with a large gamut color profile you'll see banding at any zoom leve less than 100%.
the fix is to set a cache level of 1 so the image won't be recreated on each zoom step in 8 bit

can any user here confirm the autoiso control for photos isn't working with video at all?
meaning max iso level and minumum shutter speed
 
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Just to see if my understanding is correct,

you can lock the exposure using AE-L, but not the ISO (gain) or shutter. You can use exposure compensation to seemingly adjust the shutter speed, a negative number resulting in a faster shutter speed?

Kholi, any progress on the manual ISO? I should be getting my D90 soon so I can start pitching in.
 
The shutter and ISO that is chosen in the different EV modes is probably dependent on what light the sensor received when the exposure was locked. I'm hoping that those values can be repeatable if the light used is the same every time, like putting a lens cap on (zero light), or putting the same lamp in front of the lens at the same distance.
 
Bearing, like Kholi had mentioned in an earlier page, wouldn't locking AE with the lens cap on pump up the ISO to compensate? Therefore yielding a very noisy image even in perfectly lit scenarios?
 
Yes, probably. Jim says a lens cap and -1EV gives a shutter of 1/30 and ISO2000. ISO 2000 is generally very noisy.

I think the way to go is to find a light source that make like a 1/60 shutter and ISO200 at 0 EV. Then you can go up to increase shutter time and ISO or go down to decrease shutter time and possibly ISO.
 
a halogen lamp with a dimmer + a white balance disk (or any diffuser like from a flash) should get a lock with repeatable results, right?
 
Just doesn't seem practical if it's required every time one wants to shoot...Especially if it must be reset every time you leave LV!

How hard would a firmware release be to include manual control of shutter and sensitivity? I guess it's just getting the message to the right person up there.
 
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