What kind of headphones do I need to listen to sound recorded on a Canon HV20?

S

Steve33825

Member
Hi I have the Canon HV20 camera and I have a Canon ATR-55 TeleMike shotgun mic that can be mounted on top of the cam for sound recording.

I'm trying to find the right headphones to plug into the cam and hear what's exactly being recorded. Can anyone recommend any good headphones for this?
 
I use the 7506s too. They're really durable and are pretty much the industry standard. You can't go wrong with them, but there are better headphones out there.
 
Whoops -- sorry! Of course, I meant, don't mount the MICROPHONE to the top of the cam.

Yes, booming is the way to do it for most cine-style shoots.
 
Sorry but I dont know how the whole boom mic thing works where a guy holds it over the actors. I'm comfy with the mounted mic cuz its attached to the camera, im assuming whatever the guy's boom mic is PLUGGED into has to be somehow synced with the video when u edit it? Could somebody please break that down in kindergraden terms for me?
 
A boom mic can be plugged right into the camera just like an onboard mic.... it's just on a boom pole to get the mic closer to the actors/talent.

You could also plus the mic into a seperate recorder, then you'd link a timecode line from camera to the recorder. Or you could use a slate and then visually sync up the closing of the slate to the audio clap the slate makes.
 
You just aren't going to get good audio with a mic mounted on the camera. You need to get your microphone as close to the source of the sound as possible.

Think of it like this -- if you're having a conversation with someone, do you sit all the way across a room? Of course not. You'll be close that person. If you weren't, you could hardly hear them. Do you want your audio to sound like that?

Sure, you could turn the recording volume up, but then you hear all the other noise in the room just as loudly. Your signal to noise ratio will be quite low.

All you have to really do to see what I'm talking about is to record yourself, very close to the mic, and also 10-15 feet away from the mic. You decide which version you like better.

If you're recording all of your audio to a separate recorder, then you'd use a slate (clap board) to give you a visual reference for sync -- you'd take the sound of the clap and synchronize it with the clap in your visual. Or, more precisely, you'd use timecode references.

But you don't have to do that. You can just run a long cable from the mic to the camera.

It's up to you, of course, but the old adage is pretty spot-on -- audio is 70% of what you see, and nothing screams "amateur" like bad audio. It doesn't matter how good it looks; if the audio is bad, your production is bad.
 
Well, that would certainly be a good first step; it'll certainly get you much better results than having the microphone on the camera.

A shotgun mic like yours is better-suited for outdoor use; indoors, you'd ideally want to use a "hypercardioid" mic like the Oktava MK012.

But with what you already have, without getting anything new, you'll get much better results by booming with it, pointed down, than by having it mounted on the camera, far away, pointing horizontally.
 
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