Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

hey ed thanks,

how did you get the specs?did you trace the orginal and extended it?

i would like to have one my own, can you share with me the measurement and info, i might grab some metal and start milling

thanks ed
 
I will have them by this weekend for ya :)



phally said:
hey ed thanks,

how did you get the specs?did you trace the orginal and extended it?

i would like to have one my own, can you share with me the measurement and info, i might grab some metal and start milling

thanks ed
Click to expand...
 
I'm having a problem up here.
I'm currently making my own adapter, but I want to use it with my own 1ccd sony (small lens!) AND with the DVX I from my school.

If I buy a 58mm close up lens +10 and +4 this probably won't fit the DVX? So do I need to buy me a 72 mm +10 and +4 close up lens?
 
Or maybe it's just better for me to buy an SGPRO?
I can afford it and I don't want to spend much time on developing an adapter.

I started developing my own steadicam! (with arm, vest, etc.)
 
pietdeyaert said:
Or maybe it's just better for me to buy an SGPRO?
I can afford it and I don't want to spend much time on developing an adapter.

I started developing my own steadicam! (with arm, vest, etc.)
Click to expand...
building your own DOF adapter takes a lot of time and energy, but it doesnt take as much money. You can save by making your own, but you should be a bit of a tinkerer.

If you have the money, you should consider avoiding the hard work that this project requires and purchase an adapter so you can get shooting right away :)

If you choose to continue building, build it for a 72mm setup, then you can use stepping rings to adapt it to a smaller lens (58m). You need to make sure the minimum focusing distance of your 1 chipper is as low as the DVXA or B (consult the manuals- I dont know the numbers).

Good luck!
 
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I have finished my res-chart tests of the ED35v2. I only tested the Canon 500D v the Asian Macro +2 (both using the CO +7). I did not test extending the GG out farther away from the diopter as this would require me having to disassemble my design and installing a longer tube. And I frankly didn't feel like doing that this weekend. :)

shortcircuit6.jpg

"no dissasemble Ed35!!!!"

anyhoo...
http://www.imperialrabbit.com/rescharttest.htm
 
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I need to get to my micrometer at work and double check the numbers since you are going to mill one- give me till the end of today.

ed
 
hey ed

thanks man, take your time, you been very helpful, i can find something in the mean-time.

thanks ed
 
:Drogar-Evil(DBG): looks like you are getting great results ed.

now if i had the diligence, patience, and money to build one of those for myself.
 
Hey ed

thanks so much for the specs, i will cut one out this friday, mainly i will use some plastic then move on to alumin.

also I wanted to share with you a rig i made with a lens support built in it, it was cheap and everything was created under 20 bucks. I should had left more room for the steel bracket so i could move the lens support forwards but that it is just a minor thing. The steel bracket was the most exspensive ($15) but it was worth its vaule. I have a cavision rod support, (mostly used for as a stage) awaiting a cut lens support from ed's specs.

also i made a revision to my 35mm adaptor. I am no longer protecting my beattie screen with uv haze filter. instead i eliminated them all out to save from light lost. so it is a naked ground glass. Also i switched diopter from a +10 asian, to a +10 vivatar achromatic. the adaptor looks more robust and clean looking.

lens that i have mounted is nikon 50mm, f 1.8. But i tested with my 28mm bushsell (cheap lens), 70mm- 210 f 2.8-4 vivatar (heavy long zoom), 135mm f 2.8 vivatar and all worked fine. the flange distance is perfect.

okay no more talk here are some pics.

1.jpg
2.jpg

3.jpg
4.jpg

5.jpg
 
some great pics, I have one of those wall mounted bike holder type things in my storage, I might have to tinker with it. I am also tempted to remove the glass from the 2 49mm UV's in my adapter as well: it would lead to a sharper image I think as the less glass you have in the design the higher the rez.

But getting dust out of a D screen is a bee-yoch
 
hahah very true ed, i have about 4 nikon D screens at home, (2 red dots, 2 yellow label). I have better images with the yellow, but all them are no longer needed because the beattie is so much better and plus the D screen are nicked, (by my standards).

but i am using a beattie screen with a camael hair brush. and once i get in the tubes it is dust free from there.

you can see where the screen is located in the picture.
mount-> 52mm 1.5" tube-> grind to fit beattie screen to fit a 62mm ring->52mm 1.5" tube-> to vivatar 10+ macro-> camera.

if i had known this setup, i would had saved $250 doallars because this is simply the best set-up that i came across from the research.

2.jpg
 
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