So i finaly meda a DIY 35.

J

Joel

Member
G'day everyone.
I know that the last think the world needs at the moment is another nurdy guy, going on and on about his cool new DIY 35mm adaptor that he made out of old camera parts and PVC pipe, . . . but . . . who else am i going to tell?
So, over the last few months, as i have been finishing my BA, and in my spare time I have been toying with this project. it is now finished!. It has a Pentex K mount, so i can use the range of nice pentax lenses. (35, 55, 80-200)

I am a bit rusty on the ol HTML, but i will try to post a pic and some footage if anyone else out there is interested. Oh, and i am aware of the black spot on the GG, it has been fixed.


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Ok, and now for the footage. it is uploading to Google as we speek. well, as i type anyway.

It has a 80-200 zoom on it. in that pic. but i think it looks best with the 50mm.

There is a small black gap in the footage, At that point i took the Apt off, and i am compareing that to DVX100 without adaptor.

There has also been a little tweeking in post . . he heh heee.

well, uploading vid is takinga bit so i will post this for now. vid will be a few mins
- Joel
 
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Soooooo, anyway. Last year (again, not enough to do at Uni.) i made a Dolly and track. i tihnk it is better then other PVC dolly track systems i have seen in the DIY side of things.

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Maybe i should get on to that Jib, then i would have a compleat set.
- Joel

P.S
Is this the best place for this thred? Feel free to move it to the 35mm adapter place if you like =)
 
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I dont have an FTP progran at the moment, so i put up some stills from the footage.
Now that i look at them, the grain is very promonint. But i am useing the nikon D screen, so i am not shore how i can make that better. suggestions?

first 2 are with a pentax 55mm and last one is a 200mm. i dont tihnk the 200 works very well. i will also put a raw inage up as well.

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Here is a RAW image. well, i pulled the blue down a little because it was silly. (no white ballance was done)

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So, dose anyone know why this strong grain? i think there is a little compression due to Myspace, but it is not too bad.
i will get the raw images up soon
- Joel
 
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what speed are your lenses? anything below 2.8 tends to lose a lot more light. You'll also have to make sure you;re shooting in good light, since in low light situations grain really pops up on 35mm adapters.

Theres a good sticky on lenses and properties over in the 35mm adapter area.

Also Daniel did a comparison with the Nikon D and the Canon EE-A. The Canon EE-A seems to give a lot more light above the Nikon D.
 
Well, teh 50mm is 1.4 - 22. i tihnk i was on 1.4 i have notised that when they are on the higher end of things the grain is really bad. Anything above an 8.
i giess 3.5 might be the best?
 
I usually leave it wide open to get the best image, but it differs according to operator. Remember that these lenses were originally meant for still photography, so there are limitations to what you can accomplish without going to the pro-cinema lenses. try to use the iris settings on you DVX to adjust instead, and use your Prime lenses strictly for focusing. A follow focus unit will help with that. especially since you have a bazzoka at the end of your camera now...
 
What you have to do with Nikon D screen to avoid grain is shoot in well lit area's with the lens wide open. And with a lens wide open it can't be wide open at anything over 2.8. The next best thing is to get Daniel's VH-72nd or the VH-72nd Basic over at www.jetsetmodels.info. Good products.
 
If you want to build a static 35mm adapter and have NO grain whatsoever, use a "Canon Ee-S" focussing screen. I promise you, you will have NO grain, doesn't matter WHAT the light.
 
Love the look of your dolly and track. Are there any plans for that setup kicking around? Looks like it would be far more durable than all those PVC pipe plans around.
 
Canon Ee-S focusing screen

Canon Ee-S focusing screen

mmm, according to the specs,

"the Ee-S Super Precision focusing screen is designed to facilitate manual focusing with high-speed lenses (f/2.8 or faster). The Ee-S screen has finer microlenses than the Ee-A or Ee-D options, along with a steeper parabola of focus to make the image pop in and out of focus more vividly in the viewfinder; however, the Ee-S focusing screen is not recommended for slower lenses because it's not very bright."

So, it seems as if light might matter.. Also, do you vibrate the screen, or is it static?
 
My DIY 35mm adapter was made static. Light was a LITTLE bit of a matter, but not much at all really (honestly I never noticed it being a problem until now when I look back). Of course later I noticed that like almost all adapters, you can't stop down TOO much or you will notice something. In the Ee-S screen's case it wasn't grain, but instead a weird multicolored pattern that would appear if stopped down with the 35mm lenses past f5.6.
Personally I still recommend it for an adapter design. If you could make one vibrating it'd be even better. I've since went down the dark path and purchased a professional adapter, but, I still think it's good to build one first, get a better understanding of how they all basically function hands on.
 
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