Bolex H8??

1 - it's debatable whether you can get a similar image with video, but for sure you can't get the same colour depth and lattitude. This was exposed fairly well, but if I screwed up I could still recover the image quite easily. I really liked the picture too, and I really liked the fact that my experience with still film transfered directly here. Once you have worked with negatives on still cameras, it's the same deal with motion pictures. Personally I'm fascinated by colour and experimentation with it, and I like the flexibility film gives for that.

2 - this was the first time I shot 16mm. Before sending it off for telecine, I scanned a few frames just to play around with colour correction and to have a few reference plates to work off off when I get actual video back. I used my flatbed Epson with can scan transparencies.

3 - you answered your own question about DIY transfers. Yes, it'll take a long time and it's not worth it for the most part :).
 
professional telecine

professional telecine

you film lovers may not like this but i paid the earth for professional telecineing 4no 400ft rolls and 2no 200 rolls of super 8 plus one 16mmroll,the super 8 a little i did four or so years back and the rest a relatives.i have to say making a film with bits of super 8 minidv svhs and vhs the super 8 was way less sharp than the mini dv and only level at best with the svhs.color wise the mini dv looks superior as well in most cases,the svhs was worse color than the film mostly,the 16mm looked good color wise but no better than my dv and was also hardly as sharp.
before everyone starts saying rubbish i am not talking about a standard transfer here,and the transfer firm say the film was way up to scratch.i am talking about mini dv not hdv.
 
MiniDV - one. Two - how old were the rolls, and were they neg or reversal. And also what camera was used to shoot them with what glass.

I just can't picture you shooting home movies with Zeiss glass on an Arri 16S.
 
mostly kodachrome 40 on the super 8 ,camera a canon [xl14 ]i think i know his camera had 6 times zoom,my camera was only a chinon zoom camera.regarding the 16mm do not know what film or camera.
i can say the transferred super 8 was better than any of the super 8 made dvd films i have.
 
A proper telecine definitely contributes to the quality. However, you can't objectively judge a format like 16mm without knowing the quality of glass you were using. Just a thought.
 
Hey! I just got my Krasnogorsk fedex'd to my house.. when I first picked it up... HOLY JUNK.. that is going to wear out my arm holding up this beast! Heaviness! (Like you said earlier).

But.. when I look through the viewfinder, everything is yellowish/greenish tinted and I think it is dirty. (is the yellow tint normal?) Which part of the camera is dirty? It is not the actual diopter that is dirty, what and how do I clean it ? When I look through the viewfinder, I see little hairs and possibly (mildew?)... So how do I get the part of the camera to clean that?

And... how do I take off the lens? (I tried looking in the manual, but it said to unscrew it... I didn't see any screws tho..

ALSO, what f-stop would you usually shoot at outside on a SUNNY day? I turned on my light meter (but I think it's trashed) and it told me that it was underexposed at f-16... yea right.

Thanks.
Colin
 
You need to work out bro. Operaing this camera is an equivalent of that though.

My K-3 is kind of yellowish when looking through the viewfinder too. It's normal. I would still use some Q-Tips and 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean the small mirrors inside. For that you want to remove the lens, and to do that just grab it and turn it counter-clockwise. A screwmount means that it just screws into the body, and isn't held by screws (heh, that would be convenient wouldn't it). Once you unscrew the lens you will see the rotating shutter. Wipe that clean, and then carefully look inside where the smaller mirrors are above the shutter. Wipe that too.

I have no idea what stock you're using to tell you what aperture you should use. And unless you're willing to waste good shots and film, do yourself a favour and get a working meter. The meter inside the K-3 is probably dead because the battery is drained/absent. Just get a standalone meter.
 
Hey.. thanks for the tips.. It's not tooooo heavy, but it is alot heavier than most camcorders :) Also, when rolling film through (pressing trigger) I CANNOT tell if anything is in focus... all I see is the flickering shutter. Is there a way of telling if stuff is in focus while shooting? Or is it just me?

Also, I just bought this little meter... will this work ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=120140558720&rd=1&rd=1

$3 :) Nice eh?? I hope it'll work for what I need it for though.

Thanks.
 
Nah.. I was like 98% sure it would work. Just checking on that other 2%.. I knew that pretty much any Sekonic light meter would do the trick.

How do you send exposed film to a lab? (As far as what containers do you send it in?) And when they process film, do they print it on another roll of film? So if you filmed a 200' roll, would they take that and then print the negative on another roll of 200' film? So if you wanted to film a 200' film, you would have to buy 400' of film? Is that correct? Or am I crazy?
 
You're crazy :).

READ SOME PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKS, man! :)

You'll read that film is a base coated with silver halide crystals that react when exposed to light. Then after blah blah and yadda yadda during the processing, you end up with negative film which is coated with 3 layers of dyes: cyan, magenta and yellow. Same roll, but now it's been processed. You can strike positive prints from that, but if you want to end up in digital, then might as well just get the negative film telecined.

As to the container, the film will come in a plastic box. Just stick the film back in there, seal it up using the provided seal (I stick another layer of non-transparent tape over that), get some envelopes or boxes from the post office, Staples or the recycling bin of the nearest office, wrap it up in bubblewrap or packing popcorn (not the edible kind), pack the box up, write "FILM - DO NOT X-RAY" on it in huge letters, and send it off. Tada.
 
Haha. Okay. No wonder... I filmed some junk (after struggling loading the film) and the film looked exactly the same after.. I get it now... base coated.. silver halide.. yada yada... okay. I got it!

But when I try to load my film (with loop formers) the perfs on the film get jacked up when I try to feed the film through the roll head and the sprocket... it gets jammed after 2 friggin seconds.

How do you friggin load this beast? I did it once, but I tried it again, and it just frustrated the junk out of me... PLEASE HELP!! This thing does NOT want to load... AHH!
 
Did you read the manual thoroughly?

Wind it up, set the motor to 8 fps, feed the end of the film after trimming it while pressing the trigger, make sure the film loops properly and passes through the gate, and then out. If the gate starts moving up and down, take out the pressure plate, and make sure the claw is in one of the sprocket holes. Decrease the takeup loop if it isn't. Put the gate back and it should all be fine.

Loading it up is easy. Just.. quit being the impulsive little fiddler that you are, read the manual, and follow everything through slowly and correctly.
 
By the way, I hope you didn't run the film through, and then look at it with lights on. The chemical changes in the film are not visible until you process the roll. Any subsequent exposure to the light will expose the film to light and you will obviously not get any image after processing.
 
Nevermind... I figured it out. And yes, I read the manual thoroughly and watched a few videos of people loading theirs.

The reason it wasn't working was the film was jamming in between th gate and the pressure plate.. And sometimes the film would get off track in between the first roll head and the sprocket. I spread the roll heads apart and made sure the film was being engaged, then re-ran the film through... and for the pressure plate problem, I took the plate off and made sure the hook was grabbing the perf on the film, then re-attached the plate.

And yes, I loaded the film in the light and opened the cover, exposing the film to unnecessary light because the guy I bought it from tossed in some extra film to practice loading.... but since I just figured out how to properly load it today, I had to cut off like 5 feet of film due to perf damage because it was jamming.. lol

But... I finally figured it out, and ran the same film (the practice film) through multiple times with no problems, and if there is a problem I now know how to fix it, so I am excited! I'm a pro loader! lol :thumbsup:


Thanks anyways.
 
Oh, by the way, when loading the film into the camera, you want to get it as dark as you can to prevent from exposing it, right? So how do you do this outside.. can you use a black bag or something like that? I think so, right?
 
And (sorry for the triple post) but the part that is dirty on my camera isn't the shutter or the mirror above it... if you take of the viewfinder lens, and look straight back (probably 4-6 inches back) that mirror that is angled downward is dirty... I can't reach it with a q-tip (unless it is 5 inches long .. lol) so do you have any advice for cleaning that?

And... you keep mentioning that I need to read some photography books... I just looked, and I haven't found any that I really like and that mention all the questions I have asked you (that you said would be in a photography book).. but do you have any recommendations?? (I know you mentioned one before, but I couldn't find that one).

Thank you.
 
Cleaning? Hmm.. A pencil with some cotton on the end? If you can squeeze it through the lens mount.

As to the books, check out your library's selection. That's where I get mine from :).

And for loading - you don't have to load in complete darkness. Just in the shadow is fine. If you do load in the darkness though, you will prevent the first and last few feet of film from exposure which is probably a good thing. A dark bag would be ideal.
 
Cool.. thanks. Why would the first and last feet of film NOT be exposed in dark? Does it do this in semi-dark areas or only completely dark?

And, a roll of 100' film was included in my package. Although, the film is itself is rolled...this is regular, right? I mean, the film doesn't already come on a spool? So do I have to unwrap the film and sit there winding it up around the spool? (which will take forever lol)

Too bad there is absolutely no way of hooking an external viewing device, ie, a monitor.. but now I am just dreaming...

Thanks though.
 
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