Curves for cinelike settings

cbrandin

Well-known member
I was wondering - has anybody made any charts comparing cinelike, cinelike-d and cinelike-v gamma curves? I've seen ones that compare cinelike to the others, but not ones that compare these three to each other.
 
cinelike V gets rid of alot of lattitude, but gives it more of a contrasty look, cinelike D stretches the dynamic range digitally therefor noise is more prominant, Cinelike is the way to go.
 
There might be some situations where Cinelike D might be preferable, most notably when you want to employ the "KNEE" fuction that is unavailable in regular Cinelike. Maybe you're shooting outdoors where you can blowout easy or in a lighting condition where that might happen too. I also heard from people who have 35mm adaptors that it's better to shoot at D for the KNEE because the out of focus "bokeh-ed" part of your shot can flare up and overexpose more easily.

But yes, assuming let's say you have a controlled lighting situation and you know you aren't overexposing, regular Cinelike gives you the most true dynamic range and least noise.
 
EA_Cru_2002 said:
There might be some situations where Cinelike D might be preferable, most notably when you want to employ the "KNEE" fuction that is unavailable in regular Cinelike. Maybe you're shooting outdoors where you can blowout easy or in a lighting condition where that might happen too. I also heard from people who have 35mm adaptors that it's better to shoot at D for the KNEE because the out of focus "bokeh-ed" part of your shot can flare up and overexpose more easily.

But yes, assuming let's say you have a controlled lighting situation and you know you aren't overexposing, regular Cinelike gives you the most true dynamic range and least noise.


EDIT: thought I was in the hvx section there for a second :)
 
I have a shoot coming up where I am confused on this issue myself. I've never really messed with the "knee" settings, but I'm thinking I should learn. This will be a daytime, outdoor, beach shoot, with more than likely creams and whites for clothing. (read: wedding) I've got a UV filter on the glass, stacked with a circular polarizer.

So far, in reading Barry's book, I'm thinking I will need to use a setting that will give me some safety for preventing blowouts...so that rules out the Cine Gamma. Would the Cine_Like_D introduce noticeable noise from the boost of electronic gain in such shooting conditions as I'll be in, or would Cine_Like_V be a better place to start?

I'm going to try to get some test footage this weekend, but it can never hurt to ask for a nudge in the best general starting position. :)
 
If you're outdoors in a situation like that, I'd recommend you consider cine-like-D with your zebras set at 100% and don't let anything show zebras at all. Test it first, but I would assume that this is going to give you the best highlight control while not crushing down any of the dark sections too badly.
 
Thanks Barry.... heh! Its like you're in stereo....I'm reading you here and hearing you on my tv right now. (Been watching the companion dvd) :dankk2:
 
wait, why do you say the knee function is not available in cinelike mode?

whether i put it on Cinelike, Cinelike D, Cinelike V, the knee is always in Blue and says AUTO. Could you explain it?

and me personally, i think im going to go back to Cinelike D for use with my ifocus, since its static, having some video noise really gets rid of alot of the static GG when it becomes noticeable.
 
regular Cinelike doesn't have a knee function period so that's why the KNEE option is "blued out"

Cinelike D and V do have a knee function when you choose them but it's like a preset KNEE which you can't adjust as low, med, high, or auto which is why that option is still blued out but there is a KNEE there.

I'd actually be interested in what type of KNEE is active in D and V mode. Anyone know?

And yeah, between D and V, I think D is a better bet. V just makes everything look more contrasty which to me actually makes it look more videoey.
 
Back
Top