In case you're wondering if still lenses can cut it on Red...

Thank you very much Greg, Jarred and Evin. Much appreciate the various links and also the photos. Very interesting and quite a lot of choice. Goes to show that I have been shooting too much video as I didn't have any idea that Arri had a tilt shift mechanism for PL mount lenses. I presume, although it is not clear in the documentation they give, that you have to remove the original PL mount of the camera to be able to use it. Otherwise it would only be usable for macro work.

Wonderfull if Red could build something similar. Simple, cheap tilt shift front lens mount. I guess asking too much. Fancy bit of machining.

Lensbaby is just the sort of simple, optically horrible thing, which can produce wonderfull results in particular situations. Cheap and simple. Fascinating, definatedly something to play around with. Just the sort of thing that one would not use shooting 35mm where experiments are very expensive. This is where RED will shine. Freedom to do things that previously were impossible or at least very difficult.

Another blow for freedom are those small, reasonably fast, light zooms that you have posted. The 17-35mm F2.8 looks like a perfect solution for most of the s35 shooting. Wonder what the Tstop value is (what is the effective maximum aperture) and how sharp they are compared to primes? You are going to lose something, but how much and in which part of the zoom range?

The other DX lens 18-200 ED,AFS-VR is an incredible range for such a tiny lens so I presume the quality is not up to scratch, does any one know or have used one or read a review? I found one negative review (Weaknesses = NONE !?!? How about severe light fall-off up to at least f/8, which Nikon Capture cannot correct (PTLens can)? How about strong pin cushion distorsion above 30mm? How about loss of sharpness in the corners (nothing can correct that)? Compare with your 80-400 VR to see what I mean. With my 80-400 VR I never had to fix distorsion or vignetting, nor did I notice corner softness on digital. The 18-200 has its strengths and I'm keeping mine, but "no weaknesses" I think is a strong exaggeration.) and several positive ones. I wonder what the actual size of the DX format is compared to S35mm film should be considerably smaller, maybe someone con provide that off the top of their head? Probably the difference would fix the vignetting problem the review talks about and may also resolve the corner softness and some of the pincushion distortion. I checked the Fstops 3.5-5.6 not bad considering it sells for around €900. Using or adapting lenses like these for run of the mill work and renting lenses for special higher budget projects looks like the way to go.

Depending how sensitive the sensor is (this is crucial for the RED camera) a lot could be done with these lenses. If the sensor is not very sensitive than the saving on lenses will not be worth the extra cost and time of extra lighting equipment and crew needed for interiors and night work where you wouldn't be able to depend on available light much.

Appropos for those who are worried about the DOF in 35mm, (besides the fact that people used to work this way for years and not worry too much about it) it is only really a problem with fast medium to longer focal length lenses. So the more the sensitive the sensor the more you can stop down the lens to a comfortable DOF. In fact slow zooms such as the DX above are quite difficult to use to send the background completely out of focus.

Thanks again for the information. I for one would like to avoid having to spend a fortune on expensive, heavy, large cinema lenses for my day to day work. Less cost, less weight, less people more freedom is what I want.
 
Greg Lowry said:
I would say it WAS popular, not so much anymore.

Cool!
I forget things are quite different in the US. Plenty of jobs, a LOT of equipment, and always (or, at least, frequently) the top products to choose. Around here in latin america, where we're some time behind, the angenieux, still is quite popular. For instance, I don't think I ever seen a Cooke S4 set in person... :)

Anyway, it's a heavy lens, but it mounts on heavy cameras...

Cheers! :beer:
 
Thank you very much Greg, Jarred and Evin. Much appreciate the various links and also the photos. Very interesting and quite a lot of choice. Goes to show that I have been shooting too much video as I didn't have any idea that Arri had a tilt shift mechanism for PL mount lenses. I presume, although it is not clear in the documentation they give, that you have to remove the original PL mount of the camera to be able to use it. Otherwise it would only be usable for macro work.

The camera PL mount certainly is NOT removed (how inconvenient would THAT be!). The Shift and Tilt system is PL mount (to the camera).

Another blow for freedom are those small, reasonably fast, light zooms that you have posted. The 17-35mm F2.8 looks like a perfect solution for most of the s35 shooting. Wonder what the Tstop value is (what is the effective maximum aperture) and how sharp they are compared to primes? You are going to lose something, but how much and in which part of the zoom range?

Zooms are never as sharp as primes. And as these lenses were not designed for motion picture work, they don't necessarily hold perfect focus when zooming and are, therefore, best used as variable focal length lenses. The extensive motion picture adaptations of these lenses correct the focus drift problem, but are many times more expensive than the "stock" lens. These days with advanced design and coatings, the T-stop is likely to be very close to the f-stop. In this case maybe T3. Just a guess, but probably close. This isn't so slow that it would be problem for many applications, but it's about 2 stops slower than a T1.4.

The other DX lens 18-200 ED,AFS-VR is an incredible range for such a tiny lens so I presume the quality is not up to scratch, does any one know or have used one or read a review?

A review of a lens for still camera use may understandably ignore many things that that are relevant for motion picture use. A still camera lens with a high zoom range is unlikely to hold focus through the zoom range and may exhibit lots of undesirable traits for motion picture work (tracking, breathing, etc.). On the other hand, it may surprise (in a positive way).The only way to know for sure is to test one.
 
Last edited:
Quote:Appropos for those who are worried about the DOF in 35mm, (besides the fact that people used to work this way for years and not worry too much about it) it is only really a problem with fast medium to longer focal length lenses. So the more the sensitive the sensor the more you can stop down the lens to a comfortable DOF. In fact slow zooms such as the DX above are quite difficult to use to send the background completely out of focus.
_______________________________________
Thanks for that Stephen. Both yourself and Proteus have indicated that in certain conditions we should be able to stop down to give us more DOF. I have been learning more about DOF in general and i must say it is little wonder there is confusion. Several books say one thing and others say the opposite? I think it has a lot to do with not being specific:(

What about focusing with a s35mm lens period, how difficult? We also have the exact opposite of the problems with 1/3rd camera's in that with a s35mm we have a format that easily gets you a shallow DOF. Many in the 1/3rd camp revert to 35mm adapters to solve their problems. What other solutions can you do with the s35mm camera's to solve the opposite problem (too shallow a DOF) and significantly increase the DOF (should you wish to!)

We have discussed the real difficulties of focusing with a 35mm format and that follow focus devices are essential. To get round this others have suggested the use of smaller lenses and so we have been going in the opposite direction!! I can see the logic behind it and it makes sense. I have taken heed of good advice from Greg and Gibby regarding the use of smaller lens such as a 2/3rds or s16mm light zoom for my outdoor work. But i would also like to try and get a s35mm lens to take advantage of the the wonderful extra low light qualities that will come from using a large s35mm sensor. The extra FOV was also a real bonus and that would be greatly reduced by a smaller lens.

So i gather what you are saying Stephen is that a slower zoom will give you more DOF. Is this solely due to the aperture being not as wide to begin with compared to a much faster zoom....right? These slower zooms will reduce the available light but with a much larger s35mm format/sensor to begin with are we still much better off using a slow zoom than using a smaller format lens s16mm with reduced light. I am still trying to get my head round this aspect from an outdoor sports/nature situation when i will not want a shallow depth of field that often but will need great low light qualities. FOV is another item of concern because being new to all this i worry that the extra FOV would make framing more difficult given that any video i do will be used on TV and not the big screen.

I suppose whatever camera you get you have to know it's strengths and weakneses and if the camera suits you, then work round the problems. Sorry to others for taking up time and space with these questions and thoughts but it is a massive investment to make so jumping in and hoping is not an option for me.

Are you aware that Jim Jannard has already answered a question on low light qualities regards Red ( i think it was on DV info). "We expect the low light qualities of Red to be one of it's major strengths" or something like that. So no worries there we hope.
Michael
 
Last edited:
Here is a positive review of the 18-200. Not a perfect lens, but much better than it has any right to be with this zoom range and price.
http://www.bythom.com/18200lens.htm
Although Greg is right on just about every count the 17-35mm F2.8 (T3) is one of the exceptions, it holds focus very well during zooming and performs better than any prime in it's zoom range short of the Zeiss 21mm Distagon.

Most of the lenses I mentioned earlier are "True" zooms but of course they are not built for cinema so be understanding, you get what you pay for.
 
evinsky said:
Here is a positive review of the 18-200. Not a perfect lens, but much better than it has any right to be with this zoom range and price.
http://www.bythom.com/18200lens.htm
Although Greg is right on just about every count the 17-35mm F2.8 (T3) is one of the exceptions, it holds focus very well during zooming and performs better than any prime in it's zoom range short of the Zeiss 21mm Distagon.

I'm not challenging you on this assertion but I am curious where you got that information because it's a bold statement and not a common view.
 
"The camera PL mount certainly is NOT removed (how inconvenient would THAT be!). The Shift and Tilt system is PL mount (to the camera)."

Greg you are often right and well informed but not always. The manual for the arri tilt and shift system specify that it is for normal not specific PL mount lenses and that it can be used to correct perspective (parallax) shift in architectural shots (focus close or near to infinity). It also does not appear to have any optical elements so therefore has to be mounted instead of the standard (fixed) PL mount.
Evin and Proteus I understand from the format thread that the DX sensor area is almost identical in size to the Mysterium sensor s35mm film area, is that right?
Mike I will try to answer your post after dinner. Now sunset in Rome.
 
Stephen: The special set of lenses for the Shift and Tllt system doesn't have PL mounts. I never said they did. The PL camera mount is definitely not removed and the Shift and Tilt rig itself has a PL mount for mounting to the camera. I specifically corrected you on your misstatement regarding the camera PL mount being "removed". (In fact, these lenses were never PL mount). Perhaps you meant to say lens mount. I've used the system, I know it inside out. With respect, your understanding of the system based on reading the manual is understandably weak.

Not being antagonistic, just trying to keep the facts straight, and the details do matter.
 
Last edited:
Mike the beginner,

As you know, one of my specialty areas is shooting nature, travel, and sports in natural light, in film (35 & 16), video (HD & SD), and stills (digital and film). Since you've expressed an interest in using RED for those genres, let me give you some insight to shooting them.

For those genres of shooting you'll need a camera (cameras) and lenses that enable an extreme range of depth of field, from very shallow DOF when isolating animals, people, or objects for viewer attention direction, to the deepest DOF you can get for panoramic scenic shots, establishing shots, etc, and every gradient of DOF in between, depending on the shots needed.

So, how do you do that? First, as many have noted, S35 & 35mm in motion film, and 35mm in stills, when used with appropriate "fast" lenses, will enable the shallowest DOF possible. RED will use an S35 sized sensor, so using S35mm lenses with RED, at 2540p or 4K image formats will utilize the whole sensor area and readily give you very shallow DOF, assuming you're using the fastest S35 lenses available. You're right; Jim Jannard has said that RED's low light capability should be one of it's strongest features. Shallow DOF from RED in S35 with a fast S35 lens should be easy to get. As you want deeper and deeper DOF for those outdoor shots, you'll need to be able to stop the lens down progressively, until you get to backlit shots (sun on water, etc.) where you may have the lens stopped all the way down to near closure. Good (and expensive!) lenses will usually have more stops available on the lens so doing this is not a problem. If you're using a "slower" lens you'll have to work a bit more to get shallow DOF. Depending on the lens type, you might back the camera up from the subject, or use ND filters, etc.

Cinematic-oriented shooters always talk a lot about shallow DOF and 24p - pet subjects, but there is a whole giant world of film and video production genres out there that, for subject matter and production values reasons, don't necessarily call for shallow DOF and/or 24p. A lot of nature, travel, and sports (non-action sequences) production is done in 24p, but when we shoot anything fast moving, the higher the frame rate, the better, and the DOF is usually medium or deep in those instances. Most sports and nature production, especially where tight follow of fast-moving objects in needed, are shot with medium to deep DOF at around f8 to f11, depending on the available light. In natural light shooting, the amount of sunlight available is the X factor. We also use fast shutter speeds quite often for nature, sports, and travel shooting, so the trick is to use a fast enough shutter seed, but constantly evaluate its effect on f stops and DOF. We also use a lot of zooms in nature, travel, and sports production because you have rapidly changing setups, fast moving subjects, and quite often it is virtually impossible or downright dangerous to walk up or back to change the focal length of a shot. The clarity of primes just isn’t needed for those types of shots. We also don’t have a big crew of helpers available in those genres of shooting – quite often you’re shooting alone, or at best with one assistant.

Keeping the above in mind, why would us nature, travel and sports shooters opt for S16 and 2/3" lenses at times? Final output needs, weight, cost, mobility, shallow DOF not critical, already own those lenses, network or client guidelines, storage requirements & limitations (4:4:4 RAW not needed for a particular production, because 4:2:2 to RED Drive or RED Flash will do), and many, many more reasons.

The lens formats and image formats that RED has published are pretty comprehensive. Users need to analyze what their needs are and buy lenses to suit them - and rent the odd lenses that don't fit your usual work needs. Constantly shallow DOF may be the Holy Grail for a lot of shooters, but there is a big universe of production genres out there that need everything from shallow to deep DOF. Match your equipment to your needs and you'll be happy...

To tie back into this thread, good photo lenses, as mentioned earlier in this thread, are an exciting option for use with RED when you’re budget challenged, need some more lightness, and/or the production values of your project don’t demand cine lenses.

Gibby
RED #8
www.cut4.tv
www.4umat.com
 
Excellent, informative post Gibby (as usual). It's important that the perspectives of many different shooters are expressed here. Techniques and requirements vary considerably based on the type of production.
 
Last edited:
stephen natanson said:
Evin and Proteus I understand from the format thread that the DX sensor area is almost identical in size to the Mysterium sensor s35mm film area, is that right?

Yes stephen, DX should cover the entire S35 area but there is the problem of aperture control.

Now I just thought of an idea, more like a compromise, but that could turn a completely useless DX lens to atleast partially useable on RED!

Normally there are two options:
1. The RED team (or a third party) pays the royalties to Nikon so they can have their protocols and include electronic control for their lenses (I believe that Nikon should give the info free to RED and thank them, but that's another story...).

2. Because there is a slideable tooth at the back side of the lens, a mechanical control could be embedded to a nikon mount (as I have suggested in another thread) and I personally like this solution -as alternative and I believe that for e.g 1000 pieces and up, it would be very affordable.

3. Now this idea: When there is no control, or the lens is unscrewed, that tooth moves to the far end with an internal spring and stays there at the smaller aperture of the lens, eg f/32.
So, a last alternative compromised solution of very low cost, would be to make a small metal or non-metal part that could fix the aperture tooth to a desired f/stop eg f/4 and still be mountable to RED. I'm sure this is possible.
Also, this could be easily removable with a small tool (but not easy to drop), but the point is to be able to work -not for all situations, but at least for some of them.
You will have the same depth of field and you'll have to adjust the light via the shutter speed and/or ND filters but, you could use the lens.
 
I'm not really familiar with these lenses, nor am I sure that I understand what you are suggesting, but it seems to me that a lens tech could modify the lens at very little cost for full manual aperture control. For example, still camera lenses with click-stops are often modified so the aperture ring rotates smoothly, something that's necessary for pulling stops during a take. Cost: $100 or less ... usually less. Simple is best.
 
Last edited:
Greg Lowry said:
I'm not really familiar with these lenses, nor am I sure that I understand what you are suggesting, but it seems to me that a lens tech could modify the lens at very little cost for full manual aperture control. For example, still camera lenses with click-stops are often modified so the aperture ring rotates smoothly, something that's necessary for pulling stops during a take. Cost: $100 or less ... usually less. Simple is best.

Greg, I also want the best control possible but, DX lenses don't even have a ring on their case! To add a ring, either cutting the lens' cover (if a ring addition to the body is feasible) or from the back of the lens via the tooth embedding the mechanism to the mount, is not the same thing like removing a little ball etc to make it rotating smoothly! I also bet that such a modification or special mount will cost much more than $100 -probably >$600 or even $1000 (for only a few pieces)!
 
Last edited:
Proteus said:
Greg, I also want the best control possible but, DX lenses don't even have a ring on their case! To add a ring, either cutting the lens' cover (if a ring addition to the body is feasible) or from the back of the lens via the tooth embedding the mechanism to the mount, is not the same thing like removing a little ball etc to make it rotating smoothly! I also bet that such a modification or special mount will cost much more than $100 -probably >$600 or even $1000 (for only a few pieces)!

Ahhh, ok. I missed that key fact. No aperture ring does make it more complex. haha. Damn the automatic world!

Are the DX lenses so good that such extreme measures are worthwhile? Is it not likely that the optics are available in another form that is more motion picture friendly? Lens formulae are frequently used for a variety of different lens products by the same manufacturer. Comparative schematics of the lenses might reveal that. Just a thought. If I have time, I'll investigate.
 
Last edited:
had a very liquid dinner will try to make sense tomorrow.
Greg I stand corrected as I understood it the usually exhaustive german manual didn't mention special lenses.
Mike I think Gibby answered many of your questions better than I could try to anyway.
Notte.
 
No problem, Stephen.

This is what the Tilt-Shift system looks like with lens mounted to it (shown on ARRI camera). The photo shows a combination tilt and swing position.

The lenses that work with the Tilt-Shift system have much larger image circles to cover the various tilt, shift, swing, rise and fall positions. The principles are exactly the same as for a photo view camera.

1153527403.jpg
 
Last edited:
Are the DX lenses so good that such extreme measures are worthwhile?

They are far more compact, lightweight and 32% wider than 35mm manuals...
What turns me down is their plastic and most times less-responding feel. I don’t think they are “so good” especially if you are not going to use all of their advantages e.g. stabilization for zooms (VR series). Personally I would not prefer them for RED except in rare cases…

Now an adapter with manual aperture for about $500 might be useful though, you could play with many cheap and compact lenses like the tiny 10.5mm fisheye.

Is it not likely that the optics are available in another form that is more motion picture friendly? Lens formulae are frequently used for a variety of different lens products by the same manufacturer. Comparative schematics of the lenses might reveal that. Just a thought. If I have time, I'll investigate.

You mean industrial maybe… Sorry, I’m not aware of such lenses and I don’t think they are going to be wide anyway…
 
No, I mean lenses for Nikon film cameras, for example. I wouldn't be surprised if the optics were "borrowed" for the DX lenses with the focus and aperture controls auto-fancified and the lens barrels cheapified.
 
Back
Top