Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

PaPa said:
JEEEEZ! the +7 CO changes the picture 1000% How much does that +7 CO cost? And how does it effect the distance between the dvx and the GG compared to the +10 asian that alot of people are using?

actually i got more than that..

Marlene, would the + 4 asian shorten the distance between the dvx and the GG as well as give more distortion around the edges than a +10 asian?
The higher the + value of the macro, the shorter or longer the distance becomes between the dvx and the GG ? So which one would give the least distortion around the edges?
Click to expand...

The 58mm +7 CO at B&H Photo is $209

I'm not sure what you mean by "shorten the distance". Are you talking about physical distance or focus distance?

I'm going to be experimenting with my adapter design this weekend to see if I can rid myself of using the +4 with the +7 CO. But if I can't then that's ok since it's the +10 Asian Macro that causes the most aberation and distortion.

I'm very happy with the results of using the +7 CO and it's well worth the money, especially since the adapter just isn't worth using if you're going to use the +10 Asian macro.

On the plus side the +10 Asian macro makes a great desktop paper weight and doubles as a magnifier for pulling splinters out of your hand. So it's not a complete waste of money :)
 
Hey guys,

I ben a lurker on this page for a while, learning all I can to make a DOF device. And after much time, money and effort, I am finished. What I used was nikon f-2 d screen with two macro, one asian, one serio. with 2 uv filters sandwhich for the screen. The mount is a canon mount, with an eos to nikon f adator if i chose to use nikon lens.

I spent 320 dollars, but now I know i could make if for under 150, minus lens

120 dollars were for two beattie screens, but thats another project, btw beattie screens do work well
so check it out and let me know what you think. - it is a modified ed/chris webb verison, i call it the ECW35 v.1

p.s. i have it on a hvr-z1 i have on loan from school, and is saving for a P2 come fall semester. I love the HD.
the 50mm lens is canon, the big one is a f 2.8/4 zoom 70-210 zoom soligor?nikkor? with eos-nikon mount adaptor

thanks ed and marlene for being so great and willing to share what they learned

phally


1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
4.jpg
5.jpg
 
phally said:
Hey guys,

I ben a lurker on this page for a while, learning all I can to make a DOF device. And after much time, money and effort, I am finished. What I used was nikon f-2 d screen with two macro, one asian, one serio. with 2 uv filters sandwhich for the screen. The mount is a canon mount, with an eos to nikon f adator if i chose to use nikon lens.

I spent 320 dollars, but now I know i could make if for under 150, minus lens

120 dollars were for two beattie screens, but thats another project, btw beattie screens do work well
so check it out and let me know what you think. - it is a modified ed/chris webb verison, i call it the ECW35 v.1

p.s. i have it on a hvr-z1 i have on loan from school, and is saving for a P2 come fall semester. I love the HD.
the 50mm lens is canon, the big one is a f 2.8/4 zoom 70-210 zoom soligor?nikkor? with eos-nikon mount adaptor

thanks ed and marlene for being so great and willing to share what they learned

phally
Click to expand...

Looks real good. Now I'm anxious to see some footage. Post it when you can.
 
astro.temple.edu/~phally/sam.avi
so this is a really bad encode in xvid of HD file of my fellow grad student sam

never try to reencode HD on a old powerbook g4. but yeah i am not zooming enough to the screen because we were just having fun with the camera. It really sucks indoors with the lighting and i have dust on the screen, but earlier in the day we shoot some footage of people and squirrels after 40 mins of cleaning the screen and lens, and they look great, too bad we left it in the graduate editing lab

so enjoy this short clip while i'll take some more later tomorrow
 
Well, after Jon Ness posted all of the great vibrating GG info, I took another stab at it. This time I got it. I had enough built today to do some very quick tests. It seems to work great. I was able to close down the f-stop on my 35mm canon lens much more than with my static GG version (without seeing grain). I am using the asian +10, so I still want to get the CO +7 before making anything final on the vibrating adapter. That brings me to a question ...

I have seen this mentioned several times, but I still can't seem to clear it up in my head...
If I use the CO+7 instead of the Asian +10, what distances will need to be changed. My first thought is that the GG would have to be closer to the DVX/macro since the CO +7 is less powerful.

I want to try and use the CO +7 and no other macros (if possible).

Does anybody feel like breaking this down for me to clear the fog.


EDIT: I went ahead and threw together the test footage. Not much to it other than seeing how the vibrating GG gets rid of some of the grain. I left the GG dirty to see how much the vibration would hide it. Also, I didn't open the 35mm f-stop more than f/5.8 so I could get some nasty grain for comparison. I think it was on f/8 for one of them, can't remember. The "OFF" and "ON" text on the video indicates if the vibrating motor was off or on. Seems to work great. It might be hard to tell a ton of difference at this size, but here it is:


http://snodart.com/snodpublic/snod35_off_on.mov
 
Last edited:
phally said:
astro.temple.edu/~phally/sam.avi
so this is a really bad encode in xvid of HD file of my fellow grad student sam

never try to reencode HD on a old powerbook g4. but yeah i am not zooming enough to the screen because we were just having fun with the camera. It really sucks indoors with the lighting and i have dust on the screen, but earlier in the day we shoot some footage of people and squirrels after 40 mins of cleaning the screen and lens, and they look great, too bad we left it in the graduate editing lab

so enjoy this short clip while i'll take some more later tomorrow
Click to expand...

I seeing nothing, just a white screen. Maybe it's the .avi
 
snodart said:
I have seen this mentioned several times, but I still can't seem to clear it up in my head...
If I use the CO+7 instead of the Asian +10, what distances will need to be changed. My first thought is that the GG would have to be closer to the DVX/macro since the CO +7 is less powerful.

I want to try and use the CO +7 and no other macros (if possible).

Does anybody feel like breaking this down for me to clear the fog.
Click to expand...


I'm modifying an adapter this weekend to see if I can get rid of the +4 close up, I'll let you know the results.

Congrats on the vibrating GG! Something I have yet to tackle.
 
Shortened up my adapter a little and moved down from the +4 to the +1. But before heading back into the shop I did a little comparison of my LowBay35 with aol screen and +7 CO and +1 Asian Closeup.....to....the DVX without adapter. These were shot within about 15 minutes of each other. To tell you the truth....I kinda like the adapter footage better, I guess because it's a lot less digital looking. Anyway here's the grabs.
withandwithout.jpg

EDIT: I don't think that shortening up the adapter is the right thing to do. In further testing I figured out that the +1 close up was enough on my other adapters too. So don't run out and shorten your adapter with the hopes that you can eliminate a close-up. Now I'm thinking that longer may be better so......I'm all screwed up.
 
Last edited:
Hey
I am iffy with the footage, it is a rencode of the hd file, the file is 40 megs big, when i get to school, i'll put up a h.264? version of it .

Also with the vibrating gg, which direction is is vibrating? up-down, left right?, or random
I would like to try it with this concept i have in my head, my nikon screen is not sealed in its case, so i could take it out and attach metal spikes suspend with springs in a series filter holder/with vibrating motor to make it vibrate?

what do you think?
 
snodart said:
Well, after Jon Ness posted all of the great vibrating GG info, I took another stab at it. This time I got it. I had enough built today to do some very quick tests. It seems to work great. I was able to close down the f-stop on my 35mm canon lens much more than with my static GG version (without seeing grain). I am using the asian +10, so I still want to get the CO +7 before making anything final on the vibrating adapter. That brings me to a question ...

I have seen this mentioned several times, but I still can't seem to clear it up in my head...
If I use the CO+7 instead of the Asian +10, what distances will need to be changed. My first thought is that the GG would have to be closer to the DVX/macro since the CO +7 is less powerful.

I want to try and use the CO +7 and no other macros (if possible).

Does anybody feel like breaking this down for me to clear the fog.


EDIT: I went ahead and threw together the test footage. Not much to it other than seeing how the vibrating GG gets rid of some of the grain. I left the GG dirty to see how much the vibration would hide it. Also, I didn't open the 35mm f-stop more than f/5.8 so I could get some nasty grain for comparison. I think it was on f/8 for one of them, can't remember. The "OFF" and "ON" text on the video indicates if the vibrating motor was off or on. Seems to work great. It might be hard to tell a ton of difference at this size, but here it is:


http://snodart.com/snodpublic/snod35_off_on.mov
Click to expand...


Excellent footage. I liked both on and off, very hard to tell the difference. The out of focus areas I think had a bit more fuzz with it on. All in all ya did a nice job!!
 
marlenedegrood said:
I'm modifying an adapter this weekend to see if I can get rid of the +4 close up, I'll let you know the results.

Congrats on the vibrating GG! Something I have yet to tackle.
Click to expand...

Sounds great, I look forward to hearing how it goes. The GG was pretty easy to build to my suprise. I was overthinking it in my previous attempts. I'm sure you would have no problem making one being the adapter builder you are.
:)

phally said:
Also with the vibrating gg, which direction is is vibrating? up-down, left right?, or random
I would like to try it with this concept i have in my head, my nikon screen is not sealed in its case, so i could take it out and attach metal spikes suspend with springs in a series filter holder/with vibrating motor to make it vibrate?

what do you think?
Click to expand...

Phally, the gg is vibrating up-down and left right and random. It does show a bit of a pattern (of the GG grain being vibrated) when I have the f-stop down around f/8, but I think any of the adapters start to do bad with the f-stop closed this much.

I think I understand what you are saying with the springs. I tried springs attached around the filter rings which enclose the GG. The spring went from the fiter rings to the inside of the barrel. This set up shook the whole adapter and camera too much. I tried a few other ways as well (not sure I could easily explain them) and they too shook everything. Also the spings don't stop the GG from moving along the Z axis (front to back). This causes focus problems.

The way I have it set up now is the way shown in the links that jon ness posted a page or two back. Works like a champ. The adapter and camera don't shake. In fact, I have a hard time being able to tell if the motor is on.

Kdawg said:
Excellent footage. I liked both on and off, very hard to tell the difference. The out of focus areas I think had a bit more fuzz with it on. All in all ya did a nice job!!
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes it is hard to tell on the quicktime sized version. I displayed it on a 32inch video monitor and there is a huge difference. The grain and dust just goes away. Also, I was worried that the vibration might make the image look a bit softer, but it actually seems to look more crisp. Maybe because there is no grain around contrasting edges.

I will try and spend some time later today and scan some of the drawings of the first attempts and also take some pics of the actual version I have now. Maybe somebody can improve the design.

almost there.....
 
snodart said:
I will try and spend some time later today and scan some of the drawings of the first attempts and also take some pics of the actual version I have now. Maybe somebody can improve the design.

almost there.....
Click to expand...

Will look forward to seeing your drawings and pics! Thank You!
 
marlenedegrood said:
Shortened up my adapter a little and moved down from the +4 to the +1. But before heading back into the shop I did a little comparison of my LowBay35 with aol screen and +7 CO and +1 Asian Closeup.....to....the DVX without adapter. These were shot within about 15 minutes of each other. To tell you the truth....I kinda like the adapter footage better, I guess because it's a lot less digital looking. Anyway here's the grabs.
withandwithout.jpg

EDIT: I don't think that shortening up the adapter is the right thing to do. In further testing I figured out that the +1 close up was enough on my other adapters too. So don't run out and shorten your adapter with the hopes that you can eliminate a close-up. Now I'm thinking that longer may be better so......I'm all screwed up.
Click to expand...

i dont understand, the second shot looks better in my opinion. It seems like there is a little less chromatic aberation ( or my crappy screen )around the edges on the top right. I dont see any vignetting, why is the first adapter better in your view?
 
Last edited:
actually, i know the gg was dirty, but i prefered the look of the static version. hrm, maybe it just depends on the look you like the best.. hmmm think i just figured something out :)
 
That isn't aberation that you're seeing in the upper right corner. It was morning and I was facing east. What you're seeing is blue sky in back of the trees and just to the right of the blue sky is white sky. If that was aberation I'd be starting over.


So heres a resolution test I did with the +7 CO and +2 Asian CU. My focus was at 31 and my zoom at 76....should have gone a little further with the zoom.

http://homepage.mac.com/marlene.mac/iMovieTheater24.html

Small...yes....but I burned a DVD and viewed it on my large screen tv and I'm very happy, enough so that I may just stop screwing around with this and start using it for filming. At least for now :)
 
http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/member.php?u=12512
Hey thanks snodart, i went back and found the jon ness post, i read it a while back and looked at the pdf but now it is down.

can someone re-up it?

I get the concept about a moving ground glass, and i asked my equipment manager if a offset mini toy motor will work?
what he told me is to get a cam for a motor that changes the circular motion into an up and down one to get a up down displacement. this is cool but you lack a left/right motion.

another thing i had in mind is a gear setup in ring inside a ring.

a screen incased in a ring with gears on the edges attached to a motor mounted inside a series holder. what do you think?
 
I was thinking of using a bearing and gluing the gg on one side, and spinning the bearing with a little motor. The bearing can spin at 12,000 rpms in a circular motion to get rid of the grain.. Will this work?
 
ReneH said:
I was thinking of using a bearing and gluing the gg on one side, and spinning the bearing with a little motor. The bearing can spin at 12,000 rpms in a circular motion to get rid of the grain.. Will this work?
Click to expand...

This should work. You probably will not want to use the center of the rotating GG though. You will probably have to use just one side that does not show the center. Otherwise, should work great.

Have you seen this yet? this is the basic idea of a rotating GG adapter.

http://www.mediachance.com/dvdlab/dof/index2.htm

I didn't have a chance to get the pics of the vibrating version, but should be able to tomorrow (Sunday).
 
Last edited:
hey snodart

you think you can post a image of your setup of the vibration?
i am still wvery of the z-axis motion

thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top