Yes I'm afraid I have another adaptor.

Snodart....
I cut my hole in the cap to the same size as the inside dimensions of the mount so the back of the lens fits into the cap a tad, which left just barely enough room left on the cap to screw on the mount (I also jp welded it on for security). I have no problems with the f stop engager. When I put the lens on the mount and twist it till it locks then the aperture opens up.

Marlene
 
I have started with my homework.

Things are tricky on this side of the pond, but there's still hope. I wasn't very lucky finding the screen, but yet, an old gentleman will check his stock for a D Type. He's been very familiar with it and asumed I'd need it for making photos using a telescope. That's what for people has been asking him around lately.

Pathern on the Nikon screens are numerous. According to a list I got a copy from another shop Nikon has 21 F3 Focusing Screens. The only one with no grid what so ever is a D type (I have images of Types A, B, C, D, E, G, H, J, K, L, M, P, R, T and U) so don't end up on a wrong trail.

Thanks Edweirdo for offering the PVC. I'll try next week and if I'm not of better luck I'd embrace this solution, in case D type is on the above mentioned stock, which I should get confirmed by monday or friday.

One detail concerning PVC; these three pieces end up screwing on the next one or the closer two to dvxdue to the sending eventually do not match this way?
I localized the cap and a male adapter. They look very solid. It's not Nibco and I`ve been said the thread of the screw mountis a bit different in EE.UU.

Well, I feel excited.

Best regards,
nenaD
 
I got my wax today so this weekend I hope to find the time to start experimenting. In the meantime I ground a screen with aluminum oxide 1000 grit and 1500 grit. It looks great but the only proof is in the lens. I have the parts coming to build 2 more adapters......one with my own ground glass screen and one with wax. After building one, these should be a breeze :)

Marlene
 
dan said:
stick two tooth pick to release the mount :
http://www.care2.com/c2c/photos/view...00008.JPG.html
and cut a piece of plastic to lock the aperture:
http://www.care2.com/c2c/photos/view...00009.JPG.html
Done.
Click to expand...

Nice fix. I'm not sure I understand the toothpic part, but the other idea with the plastic piece solves my problem. Thanks!

marlenedegrood said:
Snodart....
I cut my hole in the cap to the same size as the inside dimensions of the mount so the back of the lens fits into the cap a tad, which left just barely enough room left on the cap to screw on the mount (I also jp welded it on for security). I have no problems with the f stop engager. When I put the lens on the mount and twist it till it locks then the aperture opens up.
Click to expand...

Perfect. I was worried that the hole had to be exactly 20mm, but I guess not. Thanks for the info.

Did anybody have the problem with the hood not fitting the 50mm lens?
 
I really think that the toothpick or plastic is just used if you don't have the lens mount to lock it into. It just isn't necessary if you have the mount.

Marlene
 
I put the lens mount (by itself) on the lens and turned it until it locked into place. I can turn the f-stop all day and nothing happens inside the lens unless I have that little spring loaded lever pushed over. Our lenses must be slightly different. I hope their isn't something wrong with mine.

Thanks for you help.
 
snodart said:
I put the lens mount (by itself) on the lens and turned it until it locked into place. I can turn the f-stop all day and nothing happens inside the lens unless I have that little spring loaded lever pushed over. Our lenses must be slightly different. I hope their isn't something wrong with mine.

Thanks for you help.
Click to expand...
Thats exactly what my lens does. Most (I thought all) Canon made FD-mount lenses are like this. I dont anything is wrong with your lens.
 
I posted this elsewhere, but I just figured it wouldn't hurt to offer it here:

Since everyone seems to be bashing their heads in trying to find a good screen, I have an idea: I'm 99.9999% sure I can hand make a more efficient ground glass screen than the Nikon F3. I say this because I purchased an F3 screen a while back and, after comparing it to my best hand ground efforts, I found my own work to be better.

I will do a short run of five units if anyone here shows interest, and I'm willing to sell the first five for $50 + shipping. The reason the cost would be that high for now is that I have a bulk glass order on its way but optical grade, scratchless glass in quantities of 100 or so takes about 3 weeks from time of order to delivery. Once the order arrives, the material cost goes down, and I would lower the price to $38 per unit.

For now I would have to purchase Hoya filters and pay myself above the material cost for the time it takes me to go get them, and then grind them.

I would give purchasers a week to fool with the glass and see if it's to their satisfaction. If not, send it back and I'll refund you the $50, less any PayPal charges. Glass would be 49mm in diameter (just under two inches). Note: there would not be a condensor component to this glass.

PM me if you're interested -- I'd look for a $25 deposit, and then the rest just prior to shipping.

FYI -- this will be the same grade glass as in my Go35 Standard.
 
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bklyndv said:
I will do a short run of five units if anyone here shows interest, and I'm willing to sell the first five for $50 + shipping. The reason the cost would be that high for now is that I have a bulk glass order on its way but optical grade, scratchless glass in quantities of 100 or so takes about 3 weeks from time of order to delivery. Once the order arrives, the material cost goes down, and I would lower the price to $38 per unit.
Click to expand...

Sounds great but also please describe your materials and how you made it so we can make the part ourselves if we choose. My hope is that this thread stays "how I did it and how you can too".
 
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Edweirdo said:
Sounds great but also please describe your materials and how you made it so we can make the part ourselves if we choose. My hope is that this thread stays "how I did it and how you can too".
Click to expand...
are you going to do video tutorials on how to do it for the slower of us in the audience lol
 
I have no problem with anyone who makes a better part and wants to sell it, but they should also show us how they did it. In many cases it is a complicated process that warrants paying for it, so it is worth it.

I still intend to videotape the construction of one of these, but I have a day job, I teach at night, and take classes on top of that so all in due time :)
 
Hi everyone, i've been following this thread for sometime and have ordered the parts to make one. I have a Sony HVR-Z1 HDV camera, and i've seen some people wanting to know how well it works with a high-def camera (ie grain etc). As soon as I make it a I will post some images.

I've managed to find the Nikon F3 D screen here in New Zealand, the only one left, and I think that the camera store knew that and charged me a pretty inflated price...

There is one area that I need to consider and that is in NZ we have our measurements in metric, so 2" pipe doesnt exist :) we have 50mm pipe which is, although very similar , is a millimeter too short i think ?? so I'm just a little concerned that the 'sandwhich' may not fit exactly??
 
Edweirdo said:
Sounds great but also please describe your materials and how you made it so we can make the part ourselves if we choose. My hope is that this thread stays "how I did it and how you can too".
Click to expand...
I'm guessing using aluminum oxide, like for grinding your own telescope mirror. One place that sells the grit is here: http://www.gotgrit.com/default.php/cPath/2?osCsid=b915b52ab18b1592d99d0ab25cb5d59d
It's $3-$6.

I found a large format photographer who used very fine aluminum oxide grits to make a ground glass. He gives detailed instructions on the process here: http://www.dokasphotos.com/techniques/ground_glass/
He says he got a much better screen than the OEM glass since it was quite a bit (1 to 1.33 stops) brighter.
He used 5 micron grit (4,500 grit) for an hour followed by an hour of 3 micron (8,000) grit. Sounds pretty easy actually.

I may try it myself if I can't find an F3 screen.

Edwierdo, excellent posts and ideas! You have inspired me to try to make an adapter using macro extension tubes and step down/up rings. Great work!
 
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Edweirdo said:
Sounds great but also please describe your materials and how you made it so we can make the part ourselves if we choose. My hope is that this thread stays "how I did it and how you can too".
Click to expand...

Sorry: I had a free tutorial up for about two years that did just this, but I've taken it down now that I'm going into production of a commercial product. If you want to know the how of it, just Google "make your own ground glass" or something similar and you'll find out the how. I'm not about to spill the whats that I use to make mine as it will be the glass in my Go35 Standard.
 
I ground my own glass yesterday using the white aluminum oxide grits. My glass looks good but I can't check it out until I make another 35mm adapter. Since I have one completed using the Nikon type D screen, I am anxious to compare the two.
I should have another mount for the lens here by Monday or Tues. and hopefully a test completed by Weds. This weekend I will be making a wax screen and if successful, I will then have all 3 to compare.

I totally agree with Ed that this is a DIY forum and there is so much reward in making your own whenever possible. If I can make my own ground glass or wax screen and it produces pleasing results.......great, if not.......well at least I tried.

Marlene
 
snodart said:
I put the lens mount (by itself) on the lens and turned it until it locked into place. I can turn the f-stop all day and nothing happens inside the lens unless I have that little spring loaded lever pushed over. Our lenses must be slightly different. I hope their isn't something wrong with mine.

Thanks for you help.
Click to expand...
That seems odd to me. What camera is your lens mount off of? And, what type of lens do you have?

Marlene
 
Precision said:
Hi everyone, i've been following this thread for sometime and have ordered the parts to make one. I have a Sony HVR-Z1 HDV camera, and i've seen some people wanting to know how well it works with a high-def camera (ie grain etc). As soon as I make it a I will post some images.

I've managed to find the Nikon F3 D screen here in New Zealand, the only one left, and I think that the camera store knew that and charged me a pretty inflated price...

There is one area that I need to consider and that is in NZ we have our measurements in metric, so 2" pipe doesnt exist :) we have 50mm pipe which is, although very similar , is a millimeter too short i think ?? so I'm just a little concerned that the 'sandwhich' may not fit exactly??
Click to expand...

Glad to hear your found the D screen. Re: the HD/grain issue: its a good question and frankly I dont know. We wont know until someone trys...like you maybe? :)

If you are interested in trying: when I get back to my office on Monday, I will take measurements of the PVC parts and convert them into metric. That way you can see if it willnot work with your PVC. If not I am willing to sell at cost the PVC parts plus shipping. I think all three come to about $8 U.S.

Hopefull yours will work OK with a little sanding.
 
Edweirdo said:
Glad to hear your found the D screen. Re: the HD/grain issue: its a good question and frankly I dont know. We wont know until someone trys...like you maybe? :)

If you are interested in trying: when I get back to my office on Monday, I will take measurements of the PVC parts and convert them into metric. That way you can see if it willnot work with your PVC. If not I am willing to sell at cost the PVC parts plus shipping. I think all three come to about $8 U.S.

Hopefull yours will work OK with a little sanding.
Click to expand...


Thanks for that, I'm definitely going to give it a shot, your thread has actually made me go ahead and try to build one of these things. Thanks for taking the time to share your design, its awesome.

I went to a couple of generic hardware stores yesterday but none of them had the sort of PVC connectors I needed, which is understandable so I am going to a store (Plumbing World) on Monday, they should have a better range of the parts I need, i just wish they were open on weekends :)

I'll let you know what I find and will get back to you.

As soon as its made i'm mount it on my camera and get some HD stills and clips posted. Hopefully it turns out ok. By the way, I have a Minolta 50mm 1.7 lens - is that going to be fast enough?
 
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